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gwrightoy

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Posts posted by gwrightoy

  1. Hi was wondering if anyone out there can identify these ford parts. I think they may be post war possibly for Ford Thames E4. Here are some part numbers  LV7/FD 2E-5776Shackle, rear spring. LV7/FD  1BA6303A crankshaft assy. LV7 FD 2E- 77922C case auxiliary gearbox . Have lots more stuff that will have to be identified. Have parts for various britsh army vehicles such as Scammell Standard Bedford Ford AEC Austin Landrover. Some parts are scrap some are serviceable and some are perfect. Don't have any parts books, only for  wartime bedfords. Any help is appreciated Thanks Graeme 07765086115. Text or ring or message. Will have photos available when I work out how to.

  2. Has anybody got a ford Thames E4. Is there many out there in preservation or needing restoration? I might have some parts . Text me or reply. Not to sure how to work the new format. Thanks .Graeme 07765086115

  3. Ah, OK. That must be a very late 570. If you have a look on the VIN plate in the cab you'll probably find the model details - the VIN will be in a format something like SKFSHL2BCODTXXXXXX and the letters give all the model codes. Not sure if I have any information but I'll have a look.

    Sean the plate in the cab is as follows- TYPE--EHGOBCO . CHASSIS NO. JW108014. thanks

  4. Just had a look at a 1984 TK750 / TK 220 / SHL2BCO brake set I have. Both shoes have full length linings. One shoe has a cutaway to clear the brake bisector - this is the one with the thin lining.

    Hi Sean, Thanks for your reply but mine just has a wheel cylinder no bisector. It has ,to give it its proper title... Girling suspended-vacuum servo-assisted hydraulic system. It has the 220 engine but its a small lorry . I think its a tk570. I suspect it could have the wrong linings fitted as any picture I come across has a full length lining, and a shorter length on the same side( as I have ) but have the same thickness of lining.

  5. Hi Can anyone tell me the correct way the rear brake shoes go this tk . The back axle seals leaked out on the brakes again and I have to reline the shoes. The shoes had been relined before but I am unsure as to which way round they go. The wheel cylinder is at the top. There is a thick lining (which I thought was the leading or primary shoe which normally goes towards the front ) and a thin lining which I thought was the trailing one ,which goes towards the rear or so I thought. The thick lining is the full length of the shoe and the thin one is shorter. I was always taught the leading shoe had a gap at the top where there was no lining for approx. an inch or so to let the servo effect happen and the trailing shoe lining went right to the top on the shoe. If I fit the thick lining on the leading shoe there is no gap at the top. To me ,the thin shorter lining with the gap at the top should now become the leading shoe. ? I have the Bedford brake manual for 1973 with the brakes illustrated and it shows a gap of lining at the top of the leading shoe but I cannot tell if its the thick one or the thin one. Any advice would be appreciated. If I put them on the way they were, the thick lining will be the leading one with no gap at the top. thanks .

  6. I can get some sets of dunlop rf tyres most are in reasonable condition to good about 75% tread on them. I want to save them but they are expensive, totally there are about 25 tyres. Incase you are interested please send PM and tell what you want to pay for a set of 5 tyres.

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]122790[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]122791[/ATTACH]

     

    also a set of 5x 900x16 Englebert tyres in oke condition 6-8 ply

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]122792[/ATTACH]

     

    and a set of 4 firestone 900x16 early tread. tyres are not so good any more but oke for museum or if you drive very limited miles per year. Will have more picture in the future

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]122801[/ATTACH]

    pm sent

  7. I have decided to sell off my bedford MW parts as I have too meany projects.

    I have a pair of solid petrol tanks which have had the outlets changed and one filler neck has been cut down. I can cut an OY neck off an old tank to weld on £350.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]116901[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116902[/ATTACH]

    I have a 40/41 airo screen bulkhead that need new floor plates welding in which are included and some other repairs but is mainly solid £350.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]116903[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116904[/ATTACH]

    I have a pair of solid and straight front wings £350.

    I have a pair of doors and a windscreen frames £250

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]116906[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116907[/ATTACH]

    Peter.

    pm sent

  8. Negative earth, coil is correctly wired.

     

    Points gap 10 thou, plug gap 40 thou, timing spot on. Now idling very well. But coil too hot and cuts out after a while and will not re-start. After pouring cold water over the coil it will fire straight up again.

     

    Coil is a standard 12v from a specialist who confirmed with me it was for a non-ballast system. The previous 12v coil acted exactly the same.

     

    My next step is to fit a ballast resistor to see what happens.

    Hi , I had coils that would heat up very warm this year in Normandy of all times and places with seven other family members unboard. I had lots of spares and changed coils, plugs, points, condensers, rotor arms but eventually located a dirty negative terminal on the battery! There was sparks jumping from the high tension coil lead to one of the low tension terminals at the coil when i gave it a quick rev. I removed the rubber sleeve on the end of the lead as it seemed to be helping the spark to escape and as I said, cleaned the negative terminal connections on the battery and cable and thankfully all was well. You might have the same problem. Might be worth having a look at .Good luck . let me know how it goes. I have had a few of these issues before with the OY.

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