tim gray

If it's fairly well covered by steel I'd leave it alone. It's only dangerous if it's breaking up. You could seal any exposed areas with paint to stop particles breaking off.

 

By removing it you might run a much higher risk of exposure to particles.

Very good way of sealing it is to use a solution of PVA wood glue, with the board being fibrous in nature a solution soaks well into it and then sets to bind it up. Would still be suseptable to damages such as scorring etc. Plenty of places i work have the nasty stuff in them, as ivor has said only iffy if you are mucking about with it. Within buildings it is considered protected if out of reach and painted.

Should you wish to remove it the correct grade of mask would be a P3, use a spray to keep wet when removing bolts or screws and wipe up after with a wet cloth. Whole lot triple bagged afterwards. Most reputable council tips will have a lock up to deal with small amounts as it can be found in old fuse boards and all sorts of bits and bobs. Our guys wear a disposable paper suit to be doubly safe that nothing is exported as it were.

The moggie i have should have a panel within the footwell engine side. Not present when i got the vehicle but i plan to find something more suitable when i finally sort out the correct dizzy etc, meanwhile the legs do get a bit toasty.

Regards

Tim

Gunners in boats eh?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ujpA3WwN5calthough they might have been Engineers...................same motto anyway!

Effective? VERY!! I know a car that was stolen when the owner went in to pay for fuel. He phoned Tracker immidiatley and it was stopped two nicked and vehicle returned all within twenty minutes. As to other comments why can't the local pondlife be 'Proffesional'? They get enough practice. Might Jack approach Traker and see if advice/deals are available?

The thought of ownership of something as wonderful as a Morris Commercial is indeed very tempting.John.

I managed to get a couple of hours in the workshop yesterday and made a start on the LBM,I just need to get my mate to turn a new hand grip for the top so I can fabricate the lock,only a small piece but a little bit more done !

I decided to repair what I had rather than fabricate a new one so it still retains its part number.

 

Rob...................rnixartillery.

Take it from the last pic that LBM= Lever Breech Mechanism? Or am i just being an artillery ignoramus??

Regardless of the above ignorance it is perfectly evident that you are a master at doing this scale of restoration. Watching the componants comming back from the grave is a joy.

Are you going to beltring? Love to come over for a chat

Regards

Tim

Re drawings, any particular reason or purpose as i can have a dig and see what i have

Regards

Tim

Ok....Winston was a Crocodile then?

:-) Just what i was going to say!

By the way John, your the only bloke i know who can happily tear a tank down and restore but cant post a pic:-D

Regards

Tim

Hi Tim ,

I will deliver it to you in a carrier bag at W&P Ha ha ! On a more serious note If you let me have your engine for my cs8 then I could always bring you a Morris Minor engine in exchange !! converted for unleaded of course and painted Morris Engine Green ready to fit ! lol

 

You are right in thinking they are not easy to get hold of and do cost a small fortune when you find one - probably because of the Jaguar connection !?

 

Cheers See you soon , Glynn

No probs Glyn, i shall bring a large bin liner with me to wrap the truck, are you going to be round about the same location?

Bring some traction boards with you........bit soggy methinks

I will bring biccyies for the hound

Catch you at the farm

Regards

Tim

RattlesnakeBob, I have Yellow Stars on my 1942 M3A1 White Scout Car. I did this as it was an American Armoured vehicle before the use of the White Star was formalised. I had to do a lot of research to make sure that I had the right markings for early 1942 and this is what I discovered. The blue painted registration numbers were not as readable from a distance or on photographs so that the vehicles and their units could not be easily be recognised by the enemy. A plain White Star was seen on some U.S. vehicles in England as early as 1942. It was also seen in the South West Pacific (Guadalcanal). By 1943 it was seen on all types of vehicles in all theatres of war. In August 1942 HQ Armoured Forces (US) order No. AR-850-5 formalised the use of the White Star as a form of national insignia . BUT, in January 1942 HQ Armoured Forces (US) had issued orders that all armoured vehicles would have the national insignia painted in Air Corps. Yellow No.4. Lustreless. As a result, some armoured units continued with their Yellow Star right through-out the remainder if the war. (General Patton was one who always had yellow stars on his vehicles. There are plenty of photos of his vehicles with the Yellow Star.) The Allied invasion of Sicily, codenamed Operation Husky, 10th July 1943 was the first major usage of the WhiteStar. Because of reports that the White Star could be mistaken for a German insignia and there was a threat of friendly fire, orders were issued for a circle to be painted around the White Star. Initially that circle was to be painted in the aforementioned Air Corps Yellow No.4 lustreless. Later this was changed to a white circle. This White Star within the white circle continued until the end of WW2 and beyond. I hope this helps to clear the waters, or does it maybe muddy them a bit more? Regards Rick.

following that link and looking through them all there is an incredibly complete Panzer MK4 sitting in the Golan Heights if anyone wants to go and have a word with the Syrians...

Well...........with the current situation being somewhat frosty......................can i be a fly on the wall whilst you have that small chat of yours. :-)

Suspect to get it out of the country you would need a belt fed bribe machine.

please could someone describe the "correct" late war (1994 - 45) British cam net for NW Europe theatre- I assume Hessian, but would that be brown hessian strips or would they be coloured (ie green strips)

Hi Glyn,Have to confess i have been looking for ages for one for the PU. I have managed to find some bits as spares but no distributor body yet. The DUH6A was also used on a jaguar model so the bloody things have probably got some sort of horrible premium on them.Regards TimPS, ARE YOU GOING TO SELL ME THE 15CWT WITH NO DIZZY :-)

Yup, seen that one in the flesh as it were as i picked up some minor bits and bobs from him (fuel tanks, tank trays, bonnets, minor spares) er perhaps not so minor after all !!!!!!Would still like a 15CWT but minor crises on the horizon as i am loosing the storage i have soon so i have to find an affordable home for the PU.Regards Tim

Hi guys, just spotted on car and classics website under military 1940.PU 8Cwt for sale in france, front end looks in fairly good nick, extra pics would be required to check cab and instruments , engine etc, back end looks to be substancially removed and remodelled after the cab rear. Incorrect wheels as well(at least tyre wise)

And the latest work....................................................................................--0\~

 

Rob..................rnixartillery

Outstanding finish thier Rob, realy impressive. Ican suggest that the feline has climbed out the hessian container as to the "proper" colour it is to be!!!

Regards

Tim

You need something that is "free-cutting" for machining relatively easy without tearing. Not something too cooking such as Leadloy that is basically a En2 (low carbon).

 

Such as En6 or 6A - the maximum carbon is 0.4% (into "Medium carbon steel range".

 

En5 is supplied in normalized,or hardened & tempered (you need to avoid post heat-treatment).

 

The property letter basically indicates the strength (derived from heat treatment).

 

IIRC - starts at M , but lowest commercial is probably P

 

going, Q. R. S. T. U. V. W. X. Y. Z

 

Z = 100 tonf / in2

 

For a wheel lug nut that is deep - then P is more than adequate , the threads will be quite tough , the case will be tough to prevent spannering / socket marks , you don't want anything with hardness as there would be a danger of shear at the thread roots.

 

I have been out of all of this a few years now, at the end of the day - you will have to see what is available in hex. stock bar to greatly reduce machining costs, a good steel stockist should have comparison tables as you could find the same stuff under other ref.

Cheers Ruxy,

Good good write up and got it now. Appreciate the comments re Hex bar but unfortunatley the flats on the nuts are actually inside the curcumference of the seat and taper. Got some other bits being made up so i am yet to get a unit price, if it makes it better i may get a few extras made up. Cheers for the valued info.

Tim

BS. 970 En5. (30 carbon)

 

P condition @ 35 tonf/in2 is sufficient

 

---

 

or near equiv. such as 6A

Cheers Ruxy,

Can i have that in english please:D Sorry mate could not resist, got the first bit, but P condition 35....etc ?

Regards

Tim the dunce

Hi Rob,

Can i assume that the central hole profile in the shield is the same for the pheasant as the standard 25lb gun or do you need to adjust?

As you say, a handy date to find.As for the block.......well......i did reccomend fine emery cloth, looks like it worked:D

Regards

Tim

Hi guys,If i were to get some wheel nuts made what type of steel is best bet ? Regards Tim

It's still available, and a guilty pleasure of mine!!

http://www.tesco.com/groceries/product/search/default.aspx?searchBox=bacon+grill&sc_cmp=tescohp_sws-1_bacon+grill

You underhanded temptress !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Posting a link to a valued and much sought product that does not work......

Bacon Grill not seen!!!!!

Tim!:wow:

I can remember one of my mates putting "processed cheese" (not confident about what that process actually involved in order to muller the cheese....) into our brew rather than "condensed milk"....he either couldn't see in the dark, or couldn't read.........made for an interesting brew, although by that point I was past caring....! :embarrassed:

Well the medics pack is probably not far off the size of the bergans anyway as they carry a fair bit of bulky stuff, inclusive off drips etc ( thats the reason so many of the very badly hit guys make it to the choppers)

The water situation is dire and a water bottle does not do it, most have got camel backs, penalty on that of course is water is heavy so you sweat more, bit of a circle.

Spare bits and pieces for the coms, batts etc.

Scads of ammo, your own in the pouches, extra, and extra for the support weapons. nosh for the day. Defensive electronics need i say more on that one. Kit for the sweeps to check the route. Dog biscuits for the search dog, not taking the mick with that one( look after him/her your life may depend on it) Quite possible some demolition gear if dictated.

Soon mounts up i can tell you.

Guys out on the ground soon learn what they need and what they dont, if you do get cought out and get away with it on that occasion, lesson learnt and its in the bag. The dangerous thing is when the bosses dont control it if it gets out of hand. Pack horse time and you are no good to anyone.

If what has been reported is true, exactly what machinery would have been available capable of digging a trench almost 50ft deep and the size of however many crates they are claiming? At a guestimate we are looking at circa 5000 tons of earth even if if the trenches were dug vertical sided.

Well Andy,they say you can't polish a Turd................................but I say you can ! :whistle:Rob......................rnixartillery.

Clive thanks for the suggestions have a look at the second entry on the form attachedMany thanks Pete [ATTACH=CONFIG]60271[/ATTACH]