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ackack

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Posts posted by ackack

  1. Land army tractor, built 1941. Petrol/paraffin engine, wide wheel arches, tyres all around. Part restored, unfinished due to lack of time.

    All shot-blasted and painted Fordson Green. Fixings black phosphate.

    Dry stored.

    £2300

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    • Like 1
  2. For sale.

    trailer, 2 ton, 4w/2l, Sentinel FV2502.

    Contract No 6/VEH/9280.

    Chassis No SEN6081.

    Census No 60BM81.

    fitted with,

    Body, 2 ton, caravan FV2502(V), No 6/VEH/12711.

    Was part restored years ago, unfinished due to lack of time. Fairly original. Deep Bronze Green but needs repainting.

    4 additional N.O.S. 9.00 x 16 sand tyres.

    £2000

    images below show condition when bought

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  3. For Sale.

    Canadian built 1944. Full strip-down, nut and bolt restoration over 10 years ago.

    Pipes and fittings cadmium plated, gun cradles black phosphate, everything else shot-blasted and finished in colour matched brown paint.

    Dry stored since. Restoration stages  fully photographed.

    £15,000

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  4. Smith's truck...it was common to fit twin tyres on the rear axles on Albion trucks, the CX24 and CX6 are examples. There is a diagram in the CX22 manual showing twin wheels.

    Radiator is obviously off something else and the front wheels appear to be oversize on civvy rims(CX6/CX24 also had civvy rims)

    Could be a CX24, would need to see if there is another fuel tank on nearside.

  5. The 4 CX22s at Biggar were advertised for a long time including in the "Greensheet" and other magazines with virtually no interest. The site had to cleared by a fixed date, I had struck up a deal to purchase at a reduced price which was about scrap price (scrap being quite high at the time).

    I was trying to raise funds through another deal but failed to meet the deadline. The rest is history. It would have probably cost me the same again for transportation.

    I assume the Albion Trust weren't interested because with limited funds there are already enough preserved CX22s, the money being better spent on rarer vehicles.

  6. Hi Peter,

    I'm not surprised Lister stopped producing in 1947 if they built 30,000 sets!

    Its no wonder there are loads of them about. The marine guys used up a lot of them in boats, but the marine versions seem to fetch a lot of money, up to £5000 for a good one.

     

    Would love to see a picture of a 4-wheel trailer if you can find one. I am sure my 2 wheeler is a Taskers.

     

    I wonder how different the earlier sets were electrically, the '44 ones were pretty archaic compared to the technology available at the time.

  7. I have seen many JP3s and JP4s and a great amount of photos and have only seen the 110V on the JP4 and 230V 15kVA on the JP3. All the manuals I have also back this up.

    Both were available on the same 2 wheel 3-ton trailer with frame and canvas hood.

     

    Would be interested to see some examples which break this.

     

    I have a spare trailer available if anyone is interested, as my JP3 is now truck mounted.

  8. The nuts holding the rim halves together should be Red according to wartime manuals, the wheel nuts holding the rims to the hubs were never white until the first parades in Berlin after cessation of hostilities, this was known as 'bull' and many vehicles were repainted in gloss also (some even in grey!).

    There would be no reason for wheels nuts to be painted in any colour as they were either plated or galvanised, unless of course they were going rusty.,

    Too many vehicles are found with' red bits', it just doesn't look right.

    Airlines were indeed red and yellow for obvious reasons.

  9. I've never seen Ash used on WW2 military trucks, my Albion CX22 cab was made from Oak and Mahogany.

    The rear body and cab floor was softwood.

    My radar trailer was entirely from Oak, floor-boards nearly 1" thick.

    1952 Sentinel living van was also Oak frames and floorboards.

     

    Ash is excellent for steaming and bending such as in car bodies but not the best for general construction.

    Don't use Teak, you will have a job painting it because of the oily texture. If you use wood preservative ensure that any subsequent coats of paint will stick.

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