welshbayonetww2

There is of course the other problem.....

As most people do not understand that the photographer has copywrite, some people seem to think they can use photos taken at events for their own use without asking permission. Ask nicely and you usually get rewards!

It can bring out the worst in people. I've known one occasion at least when privately taken photos (on Flickr) were used by a well known reeenactor group for promotional material for their own website without asking the photographers permission or even just giving credit. When this error is pointed out to them and they were asked to attribute them to the said photographer they got quite nasty. I should point out she wasn't looking for money.... just the pleasure of other people know who the photographer was.

It put her off joining visiting events for a while !! and she no longer posts any photos.Pity as she is quite good.

Doug

Hi all

Does anyone have details of a show near Burford on the Cotswolds in August ? want take the champ there for a run and meet up with other Champ owners.

 

RR.

From MVT DIARY

10-12th MVT North Oxford and Cotswolds AREA - MIlitary Vehicle Gathering at Swinbrook Swinbrook, nr Burford, Oxfordshire OX18 4DY Not open to public, just you and your green machine! Full use of facilities at Swinbrook Cricket Club (free) inc bar, showers, loos, camping, beautiful riverside site. Dinner at Maytime, Asthall on Friday night (book through John or Tim in advance); Barbecue at Cricket Club on Saturday evening after Road Run. Some members arrive Thursday, by prior arrangement. Contact John on 07801 200662. All eras welcome. gilliecoghlan@hotmail.com or Tim Gosling: goshahn@aol.com

Might see you there

Doug

Thanks john

 

Will have a look at this...

Alternatively send them to the Champ man.

He can supply shoe linings and rivet for DIY or he can reline them for you.

Hi,

We got there about 10:30.. Usual queues to get in, car park nearly full... bit on the warm side.

Went looking for some clansman for the misses FFR. Seems Clansman stuff is getting harder to find, but did manage to find a vehicle mounting frame for the 351 backpack and a couple of mounting plates she needed at reasonable prices. I seem to remember last year you were tripping over all the clansman stuff!

On the bright side, the number plate maker was swamped with business, but we got her military plates done eventually.

We did have a funny though, when we spoke to the key cutting guy for an ingition key for the 78 series 3 landy. he said he couldn't do it cos the lock was American!!!!. Looks like I'm going to have to replace it!

And yes, some of the stalls were packing up at 2pm.

Doug

Hi,

For some reason when I changed my password and logged back in, the gremlins have asked for another introduction.

Anyway, I suppose I've lurking around this forum for a while. I own a WoF Jeep and a replica 10cwt trailer and I got my misses a Series 3 FFR to play with. I collect militaria, radios, deacs, and as you can guess from my profile name... Bayonets of all sorts.

We take our vehicles to local shows in and around Swindon and sometimes get to W&P or Detling. Have met some people from this forum, but always happy to chat.

Doug

Just had an e-mail from the organisers to say this years event is cancelled.

Council are replacing a river bridge and repairing the station bridge,

But on the plus side, when they've finished access should be much better.

It's a pity , I was looking forward to it.

Doug

The one nearest looks like a 20cwt

Hi Arjan,

 

A good find.

The Towing-Eye and Pull pin Box, together with the folding handles and main chassis spine look exactly like the drawings in the Illustrated Spare Parts List (WO Code 13464 which replaced, but kept same many of same drawings as those in 1949 vintage WO No5460); so I would say they are defintiely of WWII date....probably from a relatively early date as that type of towing-eye seems to have been used most in the early Mk.1 versions of 10cwt trailers.

 

Looks like the wheels are 6-stud but difficult to tell for certain from the photo; I see what you mean about the wheels though as you'd expect them to be the usual pierced design, but even if they have been changed by Belgian army post-war, it still looks be be an interesting 10cwt G.S. trailer.

 

The steel bracket and support at the front is unusual, looks like a post-war modification for a spare wheel. Very good idea!

 

Cheers

John

Neil

 

They would sound like capillary ones to me.

Mine has electrical ones and they are just wires like the fuel guage.

Can you remember what you had when you swapped the motor over?

What have you got on the engine. Capillary or electric senders?

Did they work before? If so you may have found another change.

 

Mike

24V series 3 are normally capillary for oil and water temp .

Doug

Anyone know what this trailer is for?

Age?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200678653105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Doug

A couple of months ago I placed a wanted ad for Sankey Narrow Track Trailer which was fit for spares. My intention was to make one good Narrow tracked trailer if I could obtain another one. Matt Rimmer responded that he had a trailer that was fit for that purpose so we arranged a rough date some time after Stoneleigh that I would pick the trailer up. The trailer was bought on the understanding that it was spares and repairs.

 

The fact that it looked better than the one that I wanted to restore was an added bonus so I switched it around and decided Matts trailer would be the one that I stripped down.

 

Hi,

 

Your restoration is looking good.

 

Have you got to the brake drums yet? I've got one myself (23 FL 98) but the brake shoes are U/S and I cann't find any info on any replacements. Any help appreciated.

 

Doug

Thanks for the replies.

With your help I managed to get " her indoors" to accept I hadn't got the wrong stuff.

I put the first coat on and already the colour is lightening up. Still much darker than the colour I took off though.

I'll put a second coat on this weekend and then she's agreed to let it weather over the winter and see how light it will get. See if the salted roads help fade it more. ( hopefully i won't have to repaint next year.)

Doug

I would think it's just faded,

when we painted the vehicles in service, using exact same paint as before, the new one went on darker at first, then turned lighter when dried, but still darker than what was on the vehicle.

 

Just paint the whole vehicle for her,

 

Cheers

Shaun

Guys,

Need some help!

Bought the misses a '77series 3 FFR in reasonable nick, but needed a new paint job. Started to rub down the paint to find solid stuff.. Got to the 18th layer and and it was still flaking so decided to get down to the Bronze green. Found some interesting unit markings on the way through this time capsule, even a handpainted union jack. All fair enough you might say!

Now the problem. I bought some Nato green and Black to repaint the thing and the green turned out much darker than the paint I took off, and you know how women can be with colour matching !

So my Question is - Has the NATO green spec changed since '78 . If it has, does anyone know where I can get some original stuff to repaint it...

Answer needed to restore marital peace!!!

Doug

Hi,Weather held off for the weekend.

Although the Spitfire fly over didn't happen. He could be seen a few miles away flying around..... Well someone had a nice display!

The battles were good. Although the german groups seemed to have a lot of ammo , but still managed to lose.!

Nice to catch up with local MV owners.

I've attached some pics from the weekend.

Doug

Looking forward to taking the jeep to this event tommorrow.

Not many events like this around here. It was good when we went last year and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Nice battle on the railway track, good display by the Wiltshires and the Screaming Eagles.

Hope the weather holds off and the MOPS turn up!

Anyone else going?

Doug

Wife's a photograher, so hopefully I'll post some piccies later

Great thanks for the link to the piccy, it would make lots of sense only on closer inspection, mines got a Zenith ! carb fitted ??

says Model W - o on it...sorry for butting in slick,

Zenith carb? As far as I'm aware they were fitted to early landrovers of the old ford M151's. Anyway depending on the model, they could have a mixture screw on the main jet which has been screwed right out, but I still think the accelerator pump might be the problem, although on Zeniths, the float valve also gave problems.

Doug

I have a similar problem, sound almost the same, friend brought his Hotchkiss over Friday and it was purring like a Kitten. Mine sounds like a Lion with Emphasema. Was going to check the timing before moving on, but will have a look at the "accelerator diaphragm" first.....err where is that exactly ? :-D

Have a look at the photo below:

http://www.m201.com/tech/solex.htm

Its under the cover ( 6 screws) on the right of the carbareter shown.

you can buy a set of gaskets/ diaphram form dallas autos, jeeparts etc:

Doug

Hi....wondered if anyone can throw some light here ! My Hotchkiss running rough...changed coil,condenser,plugs,points,fuel pump.Stripped carb (no wear and blown out)...plugs are sooty but maybe cos can't run her for long on road.

Am i right in saying there is no running mixture adj on carb only idle ?

I know this could be a hundred and one things, but maybe someone will hit on somethin i not thought about yet.

Thanks all for your help

Barry

Barry,

I had a similar problem with mine. Have you replaced the accelerator diaphragm?

Mine had an almost invisible hole near the centre, allowing fuel to go straight into the air intake, leading to a very rich mixture.

Changed it and it runs fine now.

Doug

Please can anyone tell me where i can get a new coil for 24 volt Hotchkiss.

Very many thanks

Barry

Hi,

You could try this guy. He should be able to help.

http://willyshotchkissjeeps.com/contact.asp

Doug

Hi .

Does anyone know where I can get an SLR bayonet?

Adrian

I've got a couple spare ( with scabbard) £35 each. If your interested, pm me.

Doug

Thanks guys.

Well the canvas got a thorough soaking last weekend at the Severnside MVT show ( so did I!!!). It's drying nicely in the garage, so hopefully when I take it to the kemble Airshow this weekend it will prove a bit more watertight.

By the way , I should have mentioned its a worthing canvas I bought from Dallas Autos.

Doug

Help required!

Not long ago I bought a new canvas for my jeep and it leaks when it rains:-(.

Did i forget to do something? Should i have treated it to waterproof it... or does the leaking stop of it's own?

or should i just keep it in the garage when it rains!!!

doug

I have a carb that badly needs cleaning and have got an ultrasonic bath but never used it yet and don't know what fluid is best for a carb. My bath has a heater element.

Any recommendations:

- water and washing up liquid?

- water on its own?

- what else?

 

... of course I could always try petrol I suppose :rofl:

Hi ultrasonics use high frequency waves in fluid to produce minute bubble which collapse at the surface of the part you are cleaning, so anything which will produce bubbles is no use.

If you have one of those jewel cleaners they have very little power so it will take time and you will need to change the cleaning fluid when it gets dirty as the power drops with very dirty liquid.

Better to keep it simple and use some mild alkaline degreaser like Janitol Rapide diluted in water. Warm is best. Acidic cleaners can eat the alloy.

Doug

It was nice to meet you there.

As you know we are fairly new to the MVT. We've never been to the event before, and we were looking to bring our vehicles down to this event, possibly next year.

We were dissapointed as there were so few different vehicles around and it didn't help that they were so spread out. Aslo hardly any traders and lack of MoP interest in the displays, specially the arena events. Shame about the windy weather too. bit chilly!!:-)

But not all bad. Met some nice people, very friendly. Missus was really pleased with all the useful advice she got about doing up her new(ish) series 3 FFR. I agree with you the facilities were excellent.

Drooled over a couple of nice Kubelwagons!

Doug & Jo

I would think it would be quite obvious.. that web site does not show the PASSENGER SEAT installed... having the passenger seat still at the 'original' angle would make the drivers side sick out.. esp if you are talking 3 inches.

 

I was looking at the steering wheel bracket under the dash... it seems that you could re-angle the steering tube by shortening the legs of the bracket... since the tube is much longer than the seat, a small increase in angle would move the wheel 'up' and 'forward' a good bit.

 

Oh, and in the US D.L. Bensinger sells a 'larger mans' seat. I have no idea what the difference is.. but its more expensive than the repro seat from MD Juan.

 

I am 6'1" 280 and have looked at 'gut mods'. But I decided to eat less... more $$ for parts.

I looked at messing about with that bracket, but still not enough on it's own. it would need to make the recess in the dashboard deeper. Can be done,but more work. Also altering the top end puts more stress on the steering box.

As for being noticable. when not in it I put a jacket/bag over the seat so it isn't so noticable. Also deters MoPs from climbing in !!!.

When i'm driving it... no one can see the seat anyway.:-D

Must admit I was surprised at how tight it is in the drivers seat, Yanks must of been smaller back then. I happened on this while browsing yesterday.

 

http://www.1942gpw.com/c-45-G503_WWII_Jeep_Driver_seat_modification.aspx

 

seems a bit involved but might be what your after

 

Nick

I was going to suggest this method.

I had the same need for my jeep. I used this method witha slight variation. I cut a v in the tube, rather than cut completely and bent if to the angle of the wheel arch. Then welded when i got the angle right.

Mod doesn't look too obvious and driving position is not bad. Only bit I would add is that it shifts the cheek position ( both:-)) a bit further back so the cushion postion needs to be set right back in the corner of the seet.