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Cel

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Posts posted by Cel

  1. Thought it was time for a little update. The frame was sandblasted before the summer. A few weeks ago I picked up work on the engine. One main bearing was damaged where the crankshaft broke off. With a soldering iron the babbitt was laid on, then I turned it roughly down to nearly the finished size and the hand scraping began. After several hours of scraping and testing with prussian blue the bearing fitted like new. I have tested both the other two main bearings and they were ok. Then it was on to the big ends which did not look so good with nearly 0,5mm play in each bearing! Only one solution for that: pouring new babbitt. I made a jig to hold the conrod for both the pouring and turning it to size. The pouring was done last saturday and went quite well, considering it was the first time that I did it. Next job will be to machine them to size, I'm also thinking of using 'Timesaver' lapping compound, anyone have experience with this product? Thanks, Marcel

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  2. I have been at the Peugeot museum last thursday. Took quite a few pictures of their 1525 lorry but it is a bit different of my 1504. The frame rails have a step in them so the rear springs are passing underneath the axle. I took some measurements of the wooden body and of the flywheel. More of that in the restoration thread soon. There were also some miniatures, I really like the recovery version! Tim, the one that you are referring to is in a private collection that I also wanted to visit but it did not fit in the tour scheme. I don't know what type it is but I guess it is older judging by the frame rails as these are made out of hot rolled U-channel.DSCN1048.jpg all the best, Marcel

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  3. Been busy with an other project, a 1886 engine, but that is nearing completion now so the Peugeot comes on the foreground again. We prepared the frame and wheels for sandblasting today so I can do that some day after work, hopefully within the next two weeks. The front wheels came off, but one bearing is still stuck on the axle. On the other side the bearings came off easily, but the big one has a chunk broken out. We'll see if we can get new ones. An interesting detail was found on the wheel stubs: 'Vermot Paris 03-15'. A quick seach on the internet learned that Charles Vermot was a carriage builder, I have found a picture of a 1840 carriage. I wonder if 03-15 means march 1915?

     

    Marcel

     

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  4. Just look at that reduction gear on the starting handle! It would take a big man to start that monster!

     

    Steve:D

     

    Looks like a inertia starter. If so, it would make starting much easier. I have an engine equipped with one, they also used them on tractors, tanks and airplanes. You turn it around slowly but at a high torque for a minute or so, there is a flywheel inside which stores the energy and when it turns fast enough you engage some sort of dog clutch. If all is well the engine should start!

     

    Marcel

  5. Are they just turned with the tommy bar rather than a power tool?

     

    Yes, turning the tommy bar and applying a bit of pressure by hand does the job. If you look at the second picture in my post, the seat on the left was in the same condition as the one on the right, less than 10 turns were enough to make it as in the picture.

     

    Marcel

  6. I have bought a set of valve seat cutters, tried it on one seat and it looks like they only need a bit of lapping afterwards. Luckily there was a cutter in the box with the right angle (45°) and that just passed through the threaded hole! I guess you can find one of these nearby, if not and I have the right size I'll gladly borrow it. Also acquired a Black&Decker valve refacer, I hope I can reuse all the valves but might have to fabricate a couple new ones. Here is a short video of it grinding a valve from an injection pump:

     

    Marcel

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  7. Rather than starting a new thread I thought I would post some pictures taken during our holiday in France last week.

     

    trailer on solid wheels, front wheels with wooden spokes, rear wheels Renault

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    difficult to photograph...

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    In a small village we visited a WW1 museum in Burgundy. The 85 year old lady was very happy to give us a tour, she had collected quite a number of artifacts since her youth.

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    There are several hundreds of postcards in her collection, she said that if I could find one with a Peugeot I could have it. I went throught 20 or so albums and was kindly allowed to take pictures, but no Peugeot... Next time I'll take a scanner, who knows what is still hidden in those albums.

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    And a nice Berliet chain drive truck.

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    Best regards

    Marcel

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  8. We visited this museum in the Loire valley a couple of weeks ago, it contains a very nice collection of old iron. Most of the objects have been found in France. Here are some pictures, it is certainly worth a visit. I have more pictures but mostly of the tractors and engines. The website: http://www.musee-dufresne.com

     

    Marcel

     

    M8?

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    Delahaye

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    Lorraine

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    Steam crane

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    De Dion Bouton

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    Atlas w/trailer

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    something different

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    Packard

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    Latil

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    FWD

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  9. If a hand push fit of a cast liner in a alu block does the job with the expansion of aluminium being more than double of cast iron, then a cast liner in a cast block should be no problem at all. A tight press fit would only be necessary if there were no possibility to put in a shim. Not sure if I would use loctite, if the liner has to come out for any reason that would be nearly impossible without damaging it. I am also not sure about the heat transfer rate of the loctite but if the liner expands more than the surrounding block it could cause serious damage (this is only a speculation, if have no experience in this matter).

     

    Marcel

  10. That is only one advantage, if you make several steps of the same length you only have to press it in for the length of one step which eliminates the risk of getting stuk halfway if you have to press it in over the whole length. Yes I am thinking on a shim between case and block, a sort of piston ring would be a possibility but with the piston dropping below and the liner so thin that does not seem the way to go.

     

    Marcel

  11. I finished the cleaning of the crankcase today. The main bearings have been worked on in earlier years, as proved by the self-fabricated shims. Installing the crankshaft will be a job of patience with prussian blue and more shims. I also found a valve seat cutter set and am now after a valve grinder.

     

    Regards

    Marcel

     

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    Distribution side

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    The oil is supplied into the pressure header in the bottom of the picture. From there it goes to the 4 holes from where the oil can drip into the trays in the oilpan, the scoops on the conrod take the oil from there. There are also 3 connections to the main crankshaft bearings.

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    Homemade shim on one of the upper bearing halves.

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  12. Hi Steve

     

    You should consider the stepped liner, it is a little more work but much less risk to get stuck halfway. Instead of a flange you could put in a thin ring between block and case. I remember you writing 'nothing like a good challenge' in the Dennis thread, no doubt you have one here! :)

     

    Best regards

    Marcel

  13. From memory, dry liners are 1.5 to 2 mm thick, with a band around the top of the cylinder, 3 to 4 mm thick. What diameters are the bores? It wouldn't surprise me if they are a standard imperial size. I'd take the cylinder and a good piston to some one who does reboreing, they may well be able to bore out and fit a standard liner from something else. Heavy pitting at the bottom of the cylinder would behind a dry liner would not be a problem. Even if the cylinder walls are thin, which I doubt, from that era, a dry liner shouldn't be a problem.

     

    Regards, Matthew

     

    A friend of mine fitted a self-fabricated dry liner in an old Tangye engine. Instead of having the same wall thickness over the whole length, he gave it different diameters, the smallest on the bottom side. That way he didn't need to press it all the way in. Of course, the bore has be stepped as well but that is not too difficult.

     

    Regards

    Marcel

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