ace1

As I said earlier in the thread, we had two homes for the scammell before settling down, these are some pictures of the first move, but this time it drove itself onto the loader. After unloading it took about 2 weeks to build the "car port" bolted to the side of the container.:-D

Just to put your concerns to rest, (and they are quite valid) the rear construction goes round the entire back of the chassis members, like a sleave, so it would take the full lift even if all the bolts were removed. As for load testing, the eye on the end of the first section of the arm can lift approx 6 tons, which it has done and so long as the legs are on solid ground there is very little stress on the chassis.

Alan.:writing:

Hi Chas, the reason for the position of the hiab is that it would not go behind the cab, or between the wheels without drastic changes to the cab or chassis. Tha hiab is bolted to the chassis so that the basic outline of the scammell is unchanged and could be removed if required.

Alan.

Here is a few more pictures. The HIAB has been bolted on, and the new cab panels are in the process of being fixed to the frame. The dark piece of wood in the top left of the cab is the original corner, which was handy.

After the HIAB was on the back, we only had one slight problem, it had made the front wheels so light that on wet grass it would not go round corners! The solution was a 1 ton block placed just behind the cab.

Since the rest of the rear body has been put on this has also helped with the steering problem. Not being a carpenter, all the rear is steel (you cant weld wood:-D) pictures to follow later.

Also found a nice bit of wood (dont know the name, and some one made it for me) to replace the old rotten bit on the front of the cab.

:thumbsup:"FANTASTIC" the quality of your work is a credit to you. Keep it up.

Alan.

Thanks Andy, I am having a bit of trouble with the attachment manager, and the print size changed in cyberspace, but i will put some more pictures on very soon.:-D

Alan.:thanx:

Then after a few phone calls, the HIAB doner vehicle was found just down the road.

After measuring the fixing points the bolt on part was welded up and fixed to the rear using 16, 16mm high tensile bolts, so the whole assembly can be removed if required.:wow:

The first time the scammell moved under its own power. This was a GOOD day. It makes all the cold days and nights worth it!!!:-D

Fuel filters fitted and plumbed in, also the base of the voltage regulator. I found later that the scammell regulator was beyond my repair skills, a new one was to expensive, but i managed to find a matador (is this spelt correctly?)((yes!)) regulator that was suitable. The instrument pannel is fitted, less the spedo, which i got along with the cable and a new fuel gauge.

Rad fitted, new cab front, prop shaft, and the bonnet, still in primer. This was the middle of winter, i could only feel my hands for about 15 mins before retreating back into the small workshop cleaning small items.

Thanks for the positive comments. Here are a few more genaral veiws. The new bulkhead was laser cut using measurements from what was left of the old one. The cab frame was not to bad after the old skin was removed and straightend out. Even some of the wood inserts were reusable,:-D

Some pictures of the engine being refitted.

We used an engine hoist for the gearbox, but the engine needed something a bit stronger.

Thanks to a few mates the engine was in about 30 mins after the first lift .

Nice pictures, keep up the good work.

Alan.:thumbsup:

A few more pictures of the chassis with bits added. (they have loaded in reverse order)???? Never mind.

The small machine skates under the back wheels are a good idea if you have limited space, you just push the whole truck across the shed to make room on the side you are working.

Alan.:wow:

I managed to post another picture,(eventually) it worked ok. I like it.

Alan.

The front mudgards were very rough, but didnt have to many holes, they got well beaten with several hammers to get them into shape, (nearly). They are not perfect by any means, but they have "character" or something.:cool2:

but how is this done on the pionear? we could do with a pionear parts manual to make a comparsion . any one got one ?

The pioneer has a "scoop?" inside that catches the oil carried round the crown wheel, which is then flung off to one side in to the "scoop" and down a pipe to the thrust bearing.

When i replaced the main bearings on SPARKY someone had put the scoop on the wrong way round, so no oil to the bearing. (Doh)

Alan.

Some veiws of some of the chassis components.

In the open ended barn where most work was done, dust is worst enemy, it makes even a new paint job look a bit naff.:cry:

1. Brake cylinder.

2. Bank overdraught, i mean fuel tank.

3. Neat brake and trasmission assembly.

4. One of the rear wheel brake drumms.

Alan.

SV2S, PM sent.

Alan.

Radiator, this did not need to much doing to it, just one small leak which i managed to soft solder up.:-D

Dam heavy thing, nearly got a hernia putting it on the chassis.:sweat:

Alan.

An expensive pile of rubber to go on the restored wheels.:-D

Yes i know there is only 5, 1 is already fitted.

Alan.

Would you be interested in selling some of the parts.

My Pioneer has been converted and things are missing off of it.

and would like to restore to original state.

Cheers

I have the rear rollers and the jib, the rollers are restored, but the jib is not. I also have one engine side cover, but i cant remember which side.

I will confess, i dont have any idea what they would be worth, but it would be better to see them on a lorry than doing nothing.

Alan.

Hi Andy, you look just like i did, slightly browned:rofl:off.

Yes i did. Have been carting them round in the back for 5 years.:???

This was the hardest part of the whole job, getting the old tyres off the rims:argh:. It took the best part of a month, working evenings and weekends. When they were all appart they were sent away for grit blasting, then given a coat of undercoat.

Alan.