pockers

From what know these longline produced them in brighton

(1.9 vw turbo diesel engine was usd)

About 25 were made

Sas used them in 1st gulf war but ditched them early on as the grounded out on the terrain too often

( theres a regiment pic and they are flanked by lsv s )

Not just used by sas

There were different mk's (look at radiator positions)

This info is all from my memory and might not be right

I did have longline promo leaflet somewhere with facts n figures on if that helps?

Wow and i thought i had a lot of weldi g to do on my jeep- !

Looks like a fantastic job so far

Keep us updated

Great news re being outside the no fly zone ?

Will the lancaster be there ?

PsI'll be there friday with my m38a1 + trailer

Hi

Can any one tell me the public opening times for the show?

(cheers

Hi and welcome

Ive got an m38a1nekaf too

As far asi know mine is a sgandard engine and happily will sit a 65mph!! Tho i rarely do this!

Will tip 72 with wind behind me

Likewise i find the acceleration good round town

Currently inthe process of removing the dutch undersel which is a water trap and sorting the bits of rust

Pm me if i can help at all

Ok so summer is here (apparently) and i havent got as much done on the jeep id hoped

Mot is due in two weeks and theres a rust hole about 10" x 3" in the tub

Its behind the passenger seat where the wheel arch meets the floor pan about 3" in from edge

No seat belts so no issue re seat belt mount/structure

Will this mean an mot failure?

Can i just weld a plate over it as a temp mot passing fix? Or will it need cutting out and full replacing ?

Any advice gratefully recieved

Ive got an old canvas piece i use as a shelter so will try the screwfix own brand stuff on

Hopefully get it done this weekend - will post the results

Infact i have a can of screwfix own brand no nonsense water repellant seal which sits next to thompsons brand in their catalogue - any reason this wouldnt do the trick?

Excellent -

So no need to scrub the dodgy patches then ?

Many thanks

Having finally acquired a canvas 9x9 tent for the 2011 season i set about proofing it before season started

I discovered good old mesowax is now no longer available so opted for 5litres of Fabsil by grangers -

All seemed good until first rain at show and found several places on the roof where the water seeped through! - it just seems that in places the fabsil just didnt take .

I was advised by fellow show goers that best practice was to make up a very mild solution of warm water, fairy liquid (or detergent) and some(v small amount of) bleach and give the canvas a good old scrub with a stiff brush then re proof it with fabsil

Now before i embark on this and spend money on the fabsil can any one advise me

- does this sound the best method ?

-can any one suggest any other tips regards prepping the canvas?

- is fabsil the best proofer to use or is there better stuff out there? happy to spend the money if its goig to keep me dry:D

Many thanks

I used to have a chalet on that camp site

Any ways The brenzett aeronautical musuem is well worth a visit went there years ago when younger seem to remeber they even had a practice dam buster bouncing bomb

Its about a 20 - 25 min drive from romney sands

http://www.aboutbritain.com/BrenzettAeronauticalMuseum.htm

Technically having a replica or deact in public is classed as having a realistic immitation firearm in public which is an offence( ie if it looks like a gun )

However having it on the jeep id say covers you for exemtions/defence of the vcr act especially if on route to a show etc ( this is just my opinion as alot of the defences have not been tested yet) but id say best practice and to avoid police being called by well meaning members of public then always best to have it covered up when in public/not at show

Remeber if deact to have the certificate if not a copy of it with you

The fact its on a military jeep goes a long way id say - would be different if you had an mg mounted on a ford escort

Hi and welcome

Hope we can be of some help to you

I holiday in florida every year (near kissimee surprisingly enough)

Enjoy

Pockers (m38a1owner)

Im also looking to get a mig welder to weld thin car panels (already got an arc for thicker stuff)

Clarke have just released a new one Mig 145 for £167 gas/no gas

Alot of people tell me dont bother with no gas but others seem to have good success with no gas.

Im looking for just occassional use small pieces and obviously on a budget (arent we all;) )

Am a novice welder so keeping it simple also is for me

Can anyone clarify for me the gas/no gas arguement

Many thanks

I know i drove the better half insane talking about the "right"shade of green for my 1955 jeep, at every show we went to. in the end when i found a mv with the paint job i wanted i just asked them what it was and where from and bingo!

There are several comapnies who advertise on milweb

(for the p rice of a large stamp frank burberry will send out sample cards)

Also try Steelsoldiers.com which is a US site dedicated to the hobby

As for matt or satin i started a thrread a while ago here

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?24455-Matt-paint-scratching-satin-better

And for me satin (or eggshell) was prefereable ( matt just scratched and marked far too easy. )

Hope this helps

Fantastic - quite the project there

Will personally be keeping a close eye on the m38a1/nekaf restoration as I'm slowly sorting the rust out on my own one

Good luck with them all

FoUnd jawel paints - went with their etch primer and gloss chassis black -

they gave some good advice and were good on prices too. Got the paint just got to finish the preparation work

Many thanks

Cheers Tony

I was warned off hammerite as it's too brittle.

Will the metalshield be the same or will it stand up to the job?

Primer wise i was thinking red oxide - good? Bad?

If bad what's a good one?

Many thanks again

Cheers

Just want to paint the underside in a gloss black but obviously want to use something decent if I'm goin to the effort of re doing it.

Have tried several auto shops but they dont do it,

Seen several chassis paints on flea bay but not sure of the quality. Any one used any of these?

Any one reccomend a paint/supplier (I'm Surrey/sw London)

Right with show season coming to an end i've started on worthy the jeep

So far I've found:-

an air powered needle scaler gets the loose rust n underseal off

Electric paint stripper to soften the underseal(only soften and avoiding petrol tank - taking that out later)

The just scraping with a pallet knife - the awkward stubborn bits I've used an old but sharp wood chisel works a treat

Then using wire wool or Brillo pad soaked in petrol give it a scrub and hey presto nice clean metal! ( obviously not using

Paint stripper n petrol at same time!)

It's a bit time consuming but is cheap and works

Can any one recommend a good chassis paint? ( I know hAmmerite is no good) and where to get it

Cracked it! (sorry bad pun)

Sprayed the threads with WD 40 last night

Got an extension bar today

Tried a 3/4 socket & 19mm one (19 worked better which made no sense as they are 3/4 nuts )

Tried again - nothing - a few whacks if hammer - nothing - cup of tea then tried again with a few whacks

Freed one then the others were easy!

Same all round !

Extension bar definetly made the difference

&

As was said here - left side was left hand thread right hand was right hand thread

I would never have thought of that

Once again many thanks for the tips and replies

Sure I'll be back with another FSQ soon

I used a 3/4 spanner today & that was a nice snug fit

Its a dutch built m38a1 (nekaf)

Left hand thread - its a possibility - ill give it a go

Have just tried removing the wheels on the jeep for the first time and the wheel nuts are stuck fast!

I've tried with my air impact wrench and with a 19mm spanner n mallet but they won't budge and I'm in danger of rounding the nuts!

Have seen extendable wheel brace and will give that a try

Any one got any tips or tricks that might help?

As usual im very impressed with the response ive recieved to a post on hmvf

guys thanks for all the top tips i will give them all a try & see what works best for me

Once again many thanks

:-D