pockers

Finally sorted it!

Ok so the two outer gaskets were too thick because of the locator rings this caused the inner gasket to leak

So using a small flat blade screw deiver and a pair of needle nose pliers i removed the locator rings completly this resulted in all three gaskets being the same thickness - ithen used a smear of exhaust paste on the gaskets to hold them in place on the block, then bolted the manifold on - torqued up the nuts ,

ran the engine for ten mins then torqued up bolts again

Took it for a test drive today and looks all good

Many thanks for all the replies and tips

Will be ordering an mb set tomorrow

Should i fit with exhaust paste? Copper grease or nothing?

Or use 2 gaskets on the middle 2&3 port? (im guessing no?)

Ok so finally had some time to work on the jeep

Have straight edged the block and it does not appear warped and no sign of pitting

On closer look at the new gaskets they Are appx 1.5 mm thick measured with a caliper- (borrowing a micrometer tomorrow) however the rim of thelocating rings on the 1 & 4 gasket add about another 0.5 mm onto the gasket

thus it would appear the no. 1&4 gaskets are appx 0.5 thicker thans the middle 2&3 gasket

Me thinks this is causing the leak on the middle (2&3) gasket - what do you guys think?

They do sit deep enough into the block

If so any ideas re a solution?

try to remove the locating rings altogether?

Sanding them down doesnt seem possible without damaging the gasket itself?

would holts exhaust paste (1000 degree) be suitable to close the gap?

I'm running out of ideas

Thanks in anticipation

The use of a gloss coat on top of the primer will not enhance the life of a semi-matt/eggshell top coat, it is there as a barrier to stop the metal from corroding.

Sorry didnt phrase the question very - imeant would using eggshell paint protect the metal as good as gloss?

Im guessing/assuming that because its halfway bewtween matt and gloss that it wont be as good a barrier as gloss but better than matt?

However you know what they say about assuming........

A(am curious as looking to repaint my jeep totally after completeing a few panel welds and wanna get it right - top coat will be an eggshell)

Will semi gloss/eggshell last if painted ontop of primer or does it nee dto be gloss?

Just to update you

At the start of the 2012 season

I scrubbed my 9x9 with a v mild mixture of bleach and detergent , dilutedin warm water - let it dry

Then brushed on screwfix's own brand "no nonsense" water seal (£14.99 for 5 litres) was enough to do two coats on the roof

Let it dry

As you knw we had a very rainy and wet season and the tent stayed dry

defo a good method to reproof your canvas's

- reluctant to use non brass nuts for fear of snapping the studs

- only been blowing for about 15 miles worth of driving ( limped it home) but have yet to check the block for trueness

- good quality exhaust paste ? Any one be more definitive ? I've got holts exhaust fire gum paste (1000 'c ) this suitable?

- new set of gaskets arrived today - not had the micrometer on the rings yet however ! - where they are mounted to the gasket the seem quite proud of it (appx 1/3rd of the

thickness this could explain it ? Any thoughts how to resolve ? Found some apparently mos ones in the USA - might try those

All top tips

Wrench is new and have triple checked settings

Exhaust assembly paste or exhaust gasket paste?

I think we have got on the wrong track here. This engine is not fitted with rings as we know on Austin, Bedford and GMC, it appears there are rings fitted to the gaskets for No's 1 and 4 exhaust ports, but the centre siamese gasket for 2 and 3 does not appear to have rings. I am wondering if the gaskets being used are from different sources and centre one is thinner and thus not pulling up tight. Also I would be very surprised if the block was bowed at this point.

Yep sorry am away from jeep at present but yes only 1 and 4 have rings

gasket were sourced from probably the biggest jeep spare parts company in uk so i am assuming they correct

Back to square 1 ?

Ps the black scorches are on the block top of the centre two ports

Thanks for the replies all now is clear -

Im now using a new manifold so has had none of the surface removed in theory

Only thing is from memory the locating rings appear to be fixed to the gaskets but I will double check when the new set arrive

If lucky I will get it done this weekend if not the week after

Thanksa again

One thing occurs to me are you sure your port inserts are not bottoming out in either the block or manifold I had that problem once with a GMC in this case they were French repros and bottomed out in block and held the manifold off the block face by about 4 thou, impossible to see with a new gasket but held the manifold off the block so it would not compress the gasket enough under torque to form a compression seal. Consequently it would run for a few hours until the exhaust gasses burnt through the gap and gasket and then start to leak again. When you take the manifold off again check for burn/track marks on the block face and or manifold.

It may explain why you cracked the first manifold. The simple answer is to put the rings on a flat plate with some wet and dry and rub then down until they locate but do not prevent the manifold block interface without the gasket in place.

 

Pete

Im sorry for sounding so thick - but can u just clarify what u mean by bottoming out?

ArQe the gaskets / rings possibly too thick?

Yes I am getting leaking gasses and blackening where the gasket is being blown away

Thats basically what i used, a hi temp (300degrees) silicone but it basically wasnt up to the job

Hi thanks for replies

New manifold appears flat and checked with straight edge

The block itself is v smooth with no apparent pitting, however i have not checked with an edge yet - but i will -if the block is warped are there any solutions?

Nuts wise i did tighten up each grDually and only up to torque at last thing but will work from middle out next

Exhaust paste? Something like Holts gun gum pastee? Will this be suitable? If not any brand suggestions?

Ive used this before and found that it gets very brittle and cracks hence why i used the silicone but this has proved useless On this occassion

Unfortunaly i wont be able to look at it till next weekend plus i also now need a new set of gaskets again (costing me a small fortune)

The saga continues

got the old one resurfaced put it all back together and the manifold bloomimh well cracked!! So one lump of scrap cast iron!

Acquired a new , cleaned up the block and the pipe, new gaskets, some hightemp silicone as well just to be sure

put it all together and. Hey presto

BUT its still blowing! From the top of the centre two ( can see the blackening) and from the downpipe / flange

I must be doing something wrong- surely it cant be this difficult

Any help / tips greatfully recieved

Ok - found a local auto shop who were willing and able

Cost £40

Looking to try and fit it today (got a torque wrench too)

With regards the gaskets , do the metal rings insert into engine block or the manifold ? Manual says insert into exhaust port which I'm assuming is the engine block -

They are a v tight fit into engine block but just drop into manifold

Thanks

Fantastic

Is all clear now

Found a handful of auto engineering companies nearish me so will put some phone calls in and see if they can oblige

Many thanks for th e help

Ill update the thread withthe result

No not the carb to inlet flange........ the inlet manifold to block face.

Both manifold flanges need to be parallel and and in line vertically with the block face. If this is not the case then when you pull up the manifolds the exhaust manifold will be held off the block face by the inlet manifold by the amount you have had machined off. I should say I have assumed that the M38a1 has inlet and exhaust bolted together via a hot spot and that you haven't got a multi branch manifold?.

 

Pete

Am slightly confused infact alot confused

Many thanks

What sort of places are able to resurface them? Ie what sort of place should i search for ?

So just as show seaon finishes for the winter i get a noisey ticking sound from the engine - yup exhaust manifold gasket has blown

So new gasket and new brass nuts purchased ( old nuts stripped off when removed)

Manifold off - cleaned /scraped old gasket off - fitted new one and tightened up nuts

All seemed ok but lessthan 2miles now its blowing again - tightend nuts some more but still blowing from top middle

Face off manifoled is a bit pitted but not too bad(or so i thought)

So my question is -----

Do i try tightening the nuts some more - scared that i might strip nuts or worse snap the bolts?

Fit two gaskets?

Use a belt sander on the manifold to get rid of pitting?

Or a more sensible suggestion?

Thanks

Tamiya model paint do a range of translucent paint ( includingorange) worked a treat for my indicators

Only a couple if £ a tin

A fantastic show the family loved it and the weather held

Well done to all involved

Ps

Facilities were great with plenty of very clean toilets! And hot showers

Pm me your email and if. I can find it ill send u a scan of it