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109ffr

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Everything posted by 109ffr

  1. Only 0.14v at the points Clive with them closed and everything connected up. Resistor got fairly hot within less than a minute.
  2. 24.5v with closed points on the end of the Sw lead Clive.
  3. I’ll sort that then. I’ve had to remove two of the legs that hold the top to the bottom of the box because they touch the resistor terminals.
  4. A cobweb Clive. I haven’t had chance to spring clean it yet. 😂
  5. We’re connected up as you say Clive, sorry, my bad description. Thankyou.
  6. Morning Clive. Just to be sure on where to test for the 10v from the box, is it SW lead disconnected from the coil, points closed, ignition on, and test the end of the SW lead?
  7. Thankyou very much. I shall let you know the outcome, but I do have high hopes for a success.
  8. Fantastic news. Thankyou Clive. I hope tmrw to be posting that it’s done and running. I assume that heat wise, the resistor will be at its hottest when the engine is idling, so if I leave it ticking over for 30 minutes or so, and just keep an eye on it?
  9. Thankyou David1212. It is actually a modern aluminium clad resistor that is going into the filter box, which has a lug on either end to solder to, they’re like a male spade connection, and I do have some female spades that fit on. As you say, the 60/40 tin lead would prove the problem for now too. Thanks again, this has been a bit of an epic.
  10. Clive, I’ve managed to get to the point today where the next step is soldering. I’ve always used a 60/40 tin lead solder, but you recommend a silver solder. I’m doubtful that my skills extend to using a torch in this case, so is there a solder I could use with the iron that would do the job?
  11. That’s not a supermarket carpark! I don’t know the army registration unfortunately, but it was sent to the Central Army Vehicle Depot, Hilton, on 31st August 1983, served in Africa so i was told, and the chap who drove it in the army bought it, stood it for around 11 years, before selling it on to a mechanic who had it for a month or so and didn’t have time to do anything with it. I then bought it, we did the welding and got it running, and that’s all I can really say.
  12. When you said I seemed keen to keep the landrover original Clive, this was when I bought it.
  13. Point taken Clive! Very different indeed! I assume you didn’t worry too much about parking dents when you went to do the weekly shop!
  14. Humber Hawk Clive, sorry, I’ve just been corrected.
  15. I think it’s the common sense bit I’m missing! Funnily enough, my grandad bought a Humber brand new, if I remember rightly it was called a Harrier. He had to have a new bonnet because it caught fire as he pulled into the farmyard after a trip out.
  16. Thankyou, again! Did the thermal cut-outs on the Humber’s ever need replacement?
  17. Hi Clive, sorry to be a pain. The job on the filter box is coming along nicely, but non of the factors around us have any 10amp wire. I have 8 and 15amp, would either of these be sufficient for inside the filter box?
  18. Brilliant job with the toaster Citroman! And thanks Clive, I’ll fuse the white ignition wire then. Would you stick to the 5 or 10amp fuse for that too?
  19. Would a fuse on the white wire from the ignition afford an protection Clive? And now you’ve scared me, I’ll fit an isolator switch too!
  20. Would an in-line fuse at a strategic point be a good idea while I’m at it. Fuses do seem to be an endangered species on the truck in general. Although not to tempt fate, has never been a problem up to yet.
  21. Those tubes must be tiny, and a very skilled repair I’d imagine. These days it’s all about throwing things away and buying a new one.
  22. The winding has broken, just my luck, about a third of the way along, right in the middle of the board! 🙄 The condenser is brand new, but by all accounts that doesn’t mean it’s ok, and I have a new cap and rotor arm. Sorry to sound thick Clive, but do I go onto the small envelope under fv1609 to message you? I’d be very interested.
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