Butch

Might be unleaded fuel. Do you use an additive?

The fuel does make a differance as it burns too hot and the cooling system can't take the heat away quick enough from the liners, I have tried cutting the fuel down with parafin but this has no real effect, I need an additive that cuts 98 octain petrol down to 70 octain petrol if such stuff exists, Even when leaded was about i had problems,unleaded just made them worse.

Is there anyone else still running a Mk1 meadows petrol engine as mine just won't stay cool, I have rebuilt the radiator, checked the pump,

the ignition timing, the fan belts, checked that the rad pressurises, and theres no build up of sludge in the side plates. It also has radiator relief in it. It has always run hot when you put your foot down, but now it is hot all the time.

The Mk2 meadows has a different cooling layout, so was this a bit of a problem from the beginning or just my engine ! :???

Hi can someone give me some info on headlamp bulb part numbers and supplyers:idea:. Think mine were half inched at some point in it's past life. Oh i also have a pair of butler side lights i need bulbs for. all 24 volt. I think i can get the bulbs from my auto and general store but need to know what to ask for:???

HI mate,

the type you want for the headlights depends if you have the old 2 candlewatt 'can"t see a thing', 50 /50watt pfc or the modern 75/70watt halogen bulbs and the sidelights are 6watt scc hope this helps.

Hi Tony i'd be interrested in some brake and clutch spares if theres any going.

Are you sure it's a viscous coupling?

 

These limit the speed difference between front to rear props so no need to mechanicaly lock up. I feel fairly sure it's just an open diff with a mechanical locking device.

 

If it was a viscous centre coupling then it would make sense for the diff lock to act on the rear axle only.

 

If there's no viscous coupling then a diff lock would be more effective on the centre diff than across an axle. Reason being, it's more likely two wheels on an axle are in the same situation traction wise, and the other axle is more likely to get grip.

Your quite right i've just looked in the ASPs,it is a mechical locking diff with drive being splite 33% front 67% rear when not in use.

So Basically the button on the dash engages the front drive shaft in the transfercase??

No, there is a viscous coulping the same as a Landrover in the transferbox and the button locks that up. Without the diff in, the drive can go to the back or the front axle , whatever loses trackion first .

Does any one know if the Leyland Daf 4x4 actually has a diff locker or does the switch on the dash just actuate something on the transfecase?? I read somewhere that the truck is in full time four wheel drive and you activate the Diff lock when the truck starts to slip. I looked at the axles but I do not really see if there is some kind of line/wire to actually lock up the Diff or Diffs on the truck.

The difflock button only locks up the transfer box so you still only get 1 front and 1 back wheel spinning when its locked !

anyone with any history on this scammell please come forward i bought it from a roofer in watford but i would like to know more history about it if possible thanks

Hi Chris i used to know S Gowen a few years back when he owned the explorer,

he bought it from a garden in Crays Hill where it had sit for many years with a cracked block, and a few other things wrong with it. He got it going, reskinned the cab and took it to a few shows. I know it used to have a gearbox problem that used to annoy him all the time.He then sold it on.E-mail me if you want to know anything else.

I found this picture on another thread, the tracks on this pioneer look a lot different form the ones in the manual, (also attached), where there different types :confused:

where there also tracks for the explore, if so where they the same as Pioneer:confused:

 

and is it possible to finde a set of tracks, as it could be a nice pice of equipment to have..... :cool2:

There are two types of track, flat plate like the photo which fitted the pioneer and

early explorer with the gated track carrier and, spiral type which fitted all other explorers and militants, these don't normally fit early explorer track carriers.

There are also two types of track tensioning tools (as i found out while trying to

fit a set,they are not interchangeable!!!)

Hi all,

While I get halfway up to speed on our Bedford's aspects mechanical, I keep running into more questions. Here's a little list

of things that's been bugging me; if anyone can shed any light I'd be very grateful!

 

1) Oil spec is listed as OMD90 - what's the best civvie match? Fully-mineral or semi-synth? How often will it need changing? Same spec for engine/gearbox/hubs, or different?

 

2) Same question with coolant: what civvie types mix with AL39? I've been topping up with deionised water for the time being

but I don't want to dilute the mix too much - equally I don't want to use incompatible antifreeze and have it clot in the block though!

 

3) Same question with brake fluid - is it actually brake fluid or oil-based (know the CVR(T) catches people out...)? It's labelled OX8.

 

4) While we sort out C licenses for everyone we have an ex-TA guy who's been driving for us. On his initial walkround he

pulled out a steel pin (rusty outside, clean and shiny on the inside, with a tiny strip of red/white tape on it) from the

rear edge of the brake master cylinder, peered at it then replaced it as part of his checks. When I asked him what it was for

he just said 'no idea, we were just told to make sure it moves freely'(!). What's it for? (pic attached)

 

5) Has anyone added anything in to the electrical system? Where's the most convenient place to splice things in? I was

planning to run an extra wire from the battery master switch under the driver's seat - but this will obviously only work if

it isolates the positive side of the batteries from the rest of the electricals, rather than isolating the negative side from

the chassis (which makes more sense and prevents 'dropped spanner' incidents, but hey, it's British!). Need somewhere to run

the stereo off!

 

Thank you

 

Stone

Question 1, OMD90 is fully mineral

Question 2,AL39 is inhibited ethanediol

Question 3, OX8 is normal dot 4 brake fuild

Hope this helps you.

gents i am in need of some engine mounts i have the robush catalogue infront of me i just need to know what the sizes they are :confused:

 

my front mount on the engine is to badly worn to get an acurate size from

 

can eny one help :sweat:

HI youngguns

You could try Dunlop Vcs Ltd they used to carry those mounts in stock,

partnumber 31/0242/03 the rubber strength was denoted by a pink dot.

They used to be in Evington valley road Leiceter LE5 5LY, Has been a few

years don't know if still there!

Okay, I have even started to look, but are Explorer rear hub oilseals, easy to get, standard items or where should I be looking??

HI there Antarmike,

Try BSL, you will have to google them for your nearest branch.

I got some off them about 6 years ago, Leather too !