Butch

Hi Mike

I managed to convert a heavy duty 4 inch ring spanner l found by putting a couple of bends in the shaft of the spanner to clear the wheel studs , l will dug mine out and photograph it for you , the hub nut is the easy bit, the hub takes a few tons of pressure to pull off the tapered shaft and will require a heavy duty puller .

Regards  Butch 

22 hours ago, WillMarshall said:

I don’t have any parts from it at all just as is. Do you think it is likely to cause damage without it? Would like to know outcome of experiments. 
I have got hold of some C600 gear oil which I understand is correct for walking beams will this be suitable for rear diff?

Thanks

Hi Will

OC 600 is the right oil for the rear diff and walking beams and a few other things, you will need a oil pump of some sort  as damage will probably happen to the worm bearings , I never heard of anyone running a explorer without one but someone my know differently.

Regards Butch

25 minutes ago, WillMarshall said:

No oil pump present just as I removed cover was a little concerned about the water that run out but what oil there was didn’t look terrible 

Do you have a oil pump as spares are quite thin on the ground, someone on here was experimenting a few years back in fabricating a alternative way to pump the oil around the diff but I don't know the outcome.  

1 hour ago, WillMarshall said:

Not sure what happened there

 

1 hour ago, WillMarshall said:

Not sure what happened there

 

 

Hi Will

There is only a small amount of oil normally inside the cover which works its way there when driving, should be clean though, have you took the oil pump off to check it  already as it is missing in the photo .

14 minutes ago, Butch said:

 

Hi Dave

Not sure if that coupling  is a form  of lay rub  coupling I know they made some for scammells and I think you can still get them ,  there are two types that I have come across, you need to talk to a scammell  handyman  unit owner to find out the part number/supplier ,  try the scammell owners club for contact details

cheers Butch

9 hours ago, Dave Job said:

Thanks everyone, I will take a look at both couplings and get back to you...and take some more photos

Hi Rob

Looking good Mate, have you looked at the Fuel pump  as I had a lorry that had the same symptoms    

as those and it turned out to be that, worked alright with revs just not ticking over , new diaphragm and valves  and it was fine .

Cheers Butch

Hi Andy

Yes it is the same

Cheers Butch

Hi mate if you pm me with your contact details I will dig out the NSN for the parts you have asked for if you still need them .

Cheers Butch

Hi

I've got one you can have if you still need one.  Give me a call on 077791489079

cheers  Gary

Hi mate

have just read your thread, if you still need a answer about the winch pm with a number to call you on ,cheers Gary

Hi Richard,

your right, mind blank l'am afraid lve even brought sae140 to put in my explorer diff,

Hi

Does anyone know the whereabouts of a new meadows 630pc engine for a Scamell explorer or a good take out that can be heard running before purchase .

Hi Neil, to answer to your question, all the lubricating nipples take OC600 (EP140) but due to the adance in grease technology everyone probably uses grease .

The following do take grease

Generator spindle bearings (XG271)

Starter motor spindle bearings

Water pump bearings (LG280)

All other moving parts (linkages,door locks, hinges) are just oil can lubricated

This list is almost identical on Scammells too, all the above is taken from the D152 and R152 EMER for both vehicles

Neil , l live 6 miles down the road from sible and and will be happy to supply a second or third set of eyes as l've owned a knocker for 15 years and have done nearly everything you can do in that time. a ford cargo part number TDE2P Timax ltd fits nicely as a silencer and a WB6M bend Timax ltd puts the smoke out the side.

Cheers Dan, nothing like a bit of good news I don't mind a challenge, but with that sort of excitement to look forward to I think it can stay as it is for now.

Hi Rob,

If you still want to take the hub off, send me a pm with your email address and i will scan the relavent pages in the emer and send it to you .

Hi Butch,

 

I think that your engine was originally made for one of the RAF snow removal units, there were two types, both had two 6PJ630 engines driving the plough, and one of these types had a 6PC630 driving the vehicle. The two vehicles were the Douglas / Bros "Snow-Flyr" and the Steels / Bros "Snow-Flyr", it was the latter one with three Meadows in, now that would have sounded good when working hard!

 

The belt drive from fluid flywheel seems to fit as well, because from memory the FWD HAR snow removal trucks had the plough gear driven by a group of v-belts from the rear engine.

Cheers for that Richard. Did the snow-flyr have a fuel trailer behind it? because the fuel comsumption must have been horrendous!! :shocked: Only the MoD could afford to run one . Like you say, would have sounded great .

Butch, you say it was a stand by engine rather than standby generator, just an idea but is it a fluid flywheel and not a one way roller clutch?? Were you aware that Scammell helped develop the 6PC630 and were responsible for the induction side, at one stage a 3 carb set up was being considered?

 

You may be able to use the oil pumps, pipes and sump from your old engine as Bernard has suggested.

Sorry, it apparently was attached to a generator, and looks the same as a 630 PC in the Explorer, carbs, sump, everything, and has a tiny radiater to cool it. I don't know what a one way roller clutch looks like to be able to tell the difference,( Don't tell me, it only turns one way !! ) :??? what i have is full of fluid and turns both ways - thats all i know about it

Sounds like it was bought in to use as a spare engine for the generator i.e. intended to use engine only in case generator engine failed. I agree with you Antar that a fluid flywheel is not possible for generator drive.

In answer to both replies: The fluid flywheel was bolted to a shaft with a massive ten belt pulley on the end of it. I never saw the generator, only an exciter motor that was bolted to it. I can't see why the seller wouldn't tell me the truth. I was only wondering what this engine would have been used in as I'm going to put in my Explorer - it sounds and runs lovely !!

Hi all,

I've just brought a Meadows 630 PJ engine. It was a stand-by engine for a generator in a printing works and was brought by them at auction in the 70's. It has a few differences from a nomal 630 PC engine that i can see, these being:

diffent oil filters, cab gas adapters, fluid flywheel and governor settings - as it is set to start and run at 1800.

All of the above are painted in egg shell blue/green, as brought from auction. This engine was brand new, as there is no rebuild plate. It has done 213 hours, on starting it runs and revs without the nomal Meadows cough.

My question is this what did the MoD use a 6 cylinder petrol engine with fluid fly wheel in, and are there any other internal differences compared with a 630 PC engine ?

I did talk to Nelson Green's son, (Nelson I beieve died some time ago), about some Antar tyres he had. Not on vehicles but stored in the open, he only said "how did you know they were there? they are not for sale" I haven't bothered talking to them since.

The Antar and some of the tyres were sold to Dave Hardy a couple of years ago.

He's always after bits to help restore it if anyone knows of any being broken up.

need a brake shoe for the transmission brake on my pioneer. a very nice man has one from an explorer will it be the same as the pioneer? just to clarify its the brake on the prop shaft behind the gear box. many thanks john.

Its the same size and works just as badly!

Are you running with the engine side covers on?

I seem to remember someone saying that their cooling was dramatically improved with the covers in place.

Hi mate

I've never run with the side covers on as the heat melts the plug leads and gives me vapour locks.

Hi Butch, some of this may seem a bit basic....just a check list of my experiences really..

 

The only time I had a overheating problem with my Meadows that was not caused by a defect, was when I held on too long to a gear on long climbs, a bit of steam would escape, changing down increased the fan speed and very quickly stopped it.

 

I found it best not to drive it like a Diesel, I know it hurts but keep the revs up a bit.....

 

I agree with Richard's point about the thermostats, they do more than shutting off the rad.

 

I had new thermostats fitted and the later water system parts, I think they're even more necessary with modern fuel.

 

Have you rebuilt the radiator cap? The spring can rust badly and so lower the pressure, worth a look if you haven't, it should click quite positively when you turn it close it

 

Check that the belts are exactly matched as any difference will not be too obvious but could cause slippage, as could a misaligned compressor.

 

If you haven't already done it increase your anti freeze to 50% to lower the boiling point.

 

An internally cracked or rusted exhaust manifold can cause symptoms similar to boiling water, so will pin hole corrosion in the passages between the exhaust valve and the inlet manifold hot spots......... trust me I know, been there done both of them!

 

Check that you have the ignition timed on the correct flywheel mark, there are two, different for mag or coil.

 

You could also try screwing a permanent pressure gauge into a spare connection to check the water pressure.

 

Keep up the good work mate, Scammell fans need you...:thumbsup:

Cheers for the tips guys I'II try putting the thermostats back in, your other suggestion about the exhaust manifold and exhaust valve passageways could also be worth a look [ deep joy ] On a lighter note Bernard you've been driving that L10 powered scammell too long and have forgot that a meadows dies in the first 100 yards of any hill climb.

Butch,

 

You did not mention the thermostat, it may be sticking, not much else that you can do. The petrol should not make that much difference, unless you were really working it hard.

Richard,

I took the thermostats out long ago, on a different note you probley worked on this lorry as it belonged to 71 sigs at Bexleyheath and the A.B562 has 44 command workshop as doing most of the repairs between 1969 and 1989 when it was cast.