T8Hants

Interesting!  As i have said my bike is Feb 1945 made, and has never left the UK, so its not an Indian return.  

Was there an official' civilianisation programme for unissued military bikes by Triumph to try and fill the post-war demand?  My bike when I got it was sprayed black, had full rubber furniture, and the alloy oil-pump cover.  There were no markings on the tank when I rubbed it down.  I have heard that Triumph had a buy back programme from the Goverment, so they could quickly turn complete bikes around for the civilian market, can anyone confirm this? Leyland had a buy back scheme in place at the end of WW1, which proved very successful, so it was done.

Quick question as starting up day is getting closer (I hope), are there any special actions I should take to run my 3HW on the modern rubbish they  now call petrol?

I have the valve seat additive, should I need to be concerned about the ethanol content any other things I should think of to ensure good practice.....Ta!

Gareth

Thank you gentlemen

Ok, I wasn't thinking so much of theft, more battery drain and inadvertent short-out.

On my MV's, I always fit a battery isolation switch, so I was just wondering if the same thing is done on military motorcycles and if so what sort of component and how best to hide it, if needed.

Gareth

That's good to know, part of the reason I have never progressed very far with the bike is I have always been very worried about making a mistake and wrecking something.  I am hoping with the assembled expertise on the field at Havenstreet 40's weekend I might just get it started this time around.  So she might get a start even if I have to retro fit the washer,  Draganfly will make them to order.

Thats an interesting point, the clutch does appear to be fully home and on spinning it there is no noise or sign of rubbing.  The drive sprocket is sitting back about 1/16 out of line, so perhaps it is the missing washer that should space that off.  I assume both sprockets should be in line.  As I have probably mentioned before this bike hasn't run since 1947,and I've had it 33 years, time is running out.

Having cleaned up the washer I found, as I went to fit it that it would run  resting on the crank case face, so it can't be that one.  I also have a misalignment between the clutch sprocket and the drive sprocket, with the clutch sprocket slightly out from the drive.  I am now beginning to suspect the oil retaining plate I bought of the bay last year is too thick.  Everything is going to have to come off just to get the oil plate out, one forward two back again.

I was just about to put my cush drive together when on consulting the parts list, I noticed that a washer was required at the sprocket end of the drive

Could some kind soul tell me if the washer I have subsequently found looks to be the right one, it is quite thin?  I bought my bike as a complete basket case so the less obvious parts sometimes escape me.

I'm only two weeks off show time and she's not fully back together yet.....Thanks....Gareth

Thank you Ron, I am beginning to understand now, I have both items present and can see which way round the rod goes, so I can start reassembly.  I had something in the back of mind about about a ball bearing, but that was clearly not involved with the 3HW.   Thank you very much for your time!

I am desperately trying to get the bike ready for the Havenstreet 40's weekend and at the moment, for every one forward its two back.

Gareth

I do need help on this one please.

My 3HW came without a clutch rod, I was given one that I was told was correct and it has a dimple in the end, which to me suggests it might use a ball bearing to run on as part of the system.

So some simple questions, is my clutch rod correct for the bike, should it have a dimple in the end, does it need a ball bearing to operate?

At the moment my rebuild is stuck as I can't get an answer to what I thought were simple questions that every Triumph owner would know.

Help appreciated..............Gareth

Quick question chaps.  Is there a ball bearing placed at one end or the other of the 3HW clutch rod and if so is at the basket end or the operating arm end?

The parts manual isn't very clear on the subject.........Thanks.

Gareth

My Feb 1945 3HW (matching engine and frame) has an alloy oil pump cover, rather than the pressed steel version, just out of curiosity, when did they introduce the steel cover and when did they return to alloy, - assuming mine is not a post war replacement.?

Gareth

Update, I have now checked the disconnected field coil leads.  Setting my multi meter to 200 ohms, I get a reading of 4.2 ohms, which I think is slightly high am I right in thinking this is not a good thing? I have also checked the stator, which I think should show a reading of 0.5 - 0.8 ohms, which is what I am seeing.

Gareth

Apart from the field coil still being within the dynamo body the rest is dismantled.  On the armature I have continuity between the segments themselves, but not between any segment and the armature body.  Turning to the field coil, the insulation wrapping looks good, there is continuity between both leads off the the coil.  I have just realised that my first test to see if the coil is shorting to the body was invalid, because I had not disconnect the other coil lead that is connected to the dynamo body at the point where the brush lead is also connect.  Having disconnected that lead there is no apparent short.

As the bike last ran in 1947, I wonder if the magnetism has faded?

My mechanic has  a good reputation for classic car charging systems, but was slightly unsure on classic bike, he did diagnose correctly that the magneto wasn't working, but we have a guy here on the Island that is very good with those, I just can't find a dynamo man

Gareth.

Any Lucas E3H dynamo experts here, I am trying to find out if my field coil or armature has gone open circuit?

The dynamo is partially dismantled and by way of a simple test I tried to see if there was continuity from the field coil cable that runs to the terminal in the end cap and the body of the dynamo, which there is. So my questions are, does this indicate failed field coil insulation, or if the test method is not valid, could some kind soul tell me how to test the field coil please.

I also tried testing the armature with a simple test that I found on the web of seeing if there is continuity between the copper segments and the steel body of the armature, which there is not, does this imply the the armature is Ok?

I was told by a local car mechanic that the dynamo was u/s, but he didn't do repairs and I am very reluctant to trust the unit to the 'gentle' care of either a courier or the postal service, If I can find what is duff, I will replace the parts myself.

Thank-you.......Gareth

Thank you Ron, one is now on order from JJ Cables, details confirmed over the phone for lengths etc,  £18.00 all in, sorted.

Thanks.........Gareth

Although my original front brake cable is sound, I am not sure I want to trust a 75 year old cable for my main stopper.

I have the 22" inner with 18" outer, plus adjuster, the rest being the 3/16" rod down to the hub.

Is there anyone who makes that type of brake cables with the adjuster built in?

Or do I go for the short outer long inner version that does away with the rod section, which do seem to be available?

Once again thank you in advance..............Gareth

Thank you Mark, I bought a repro version from ebay, but it doesn't look exactly like yours.  However I can now check its dimensions against an original and modify if necessary, I'm much obliged.

Gareth

Thanks Mark, thats very useful.  A couple of questions, in your upper photo, is that a very neat wear mark,or was there originally a slight lip machined on the outer radius and have you shown both sides?

Gareth

Just a bump on this, I am still trying to find either a spare or get the dimensions to make one. No one out there with a late pressed steel chain case with the clutch out, or is it a non critical part?

Gareth again.

I had a WRS number painted on my Morris C9/B, I understand it stands for 'War Reserve' and may have something to do with the order in which vehicles were to be sent back into service during an escalating conflict, post 1945.  Or so I was led to believe.

Thank you gents, that is a big help.

I have just delivered my magneto for a rewind to a chap here on the Island, so progress is being made.

Gareth

Hi All

When I took my 3HW apart for its major repaint and fettle to get it running at last (35 years waiting) I could remember where every nut and bolt went, now I can't

Could some kind soul take pity on an old codger and remind me what and where this bolt and extended nut goes.

Thanks.....Gareth