the DT guy

Been making good progress got the track guides bolted down tight and got the 2nd pair of load binders assembled.

rubber matting to protect the paint a little longer and damped the noise a bit when bouncing down the road.

brake relay valves/plumbing fitted.

rebuilt air tank which has original pressed end from another tank and a new cylinder rolled very promptly by M & B brake press in Bath.

drill is a little over the top?

new boss machined/welded for the drain tap. Tap itself needs work but can plug if run out of time, still original 1/4” NPT thread.

old and reconditioned.

started fitting the rear brake linkages and eyeing up to fit the rear brake chambers next.

Making progress know and it’s so relieving to be at the stage of fitting parts permanently. Got the trailer painted Friday afternoon and spent Saturday fitting the track guides, winch cable shieves and rollers to the neck. 

today looked at the air tank problem, the tank on the left is the original from the fruehauf which nothing is saveable. The other tank is from another trailer which generally is much nicer condition but still has some good sized holes. So going to re use the pressed ends and roll a new cylinder and have it right. 

also cleaned up all the pipe work and fittings that go on the air relay valves and fitted it all loosely to the nos relay valves. When the thread sealant and nuts/bolts come in a few days will get it all fitted properly.

another couple of weeks should see some major changes to the look of the trailer and hopefully on track to have it finished mid May.

Good evening, spent a few hours today machining the new junction boxes kindly supplied by Bart Ammeraal in Holland. These are aluminium castings and the originals on my trailer were cast iron/steel. Though I have seen nos boxes that are made of an alloy so there are variations.

simple enough machining drilling and tapping job, 1/4” whit screws to retain the lid and 1/2” BSP for the conduit ends to screw in.

front junction box temporarily fitted with original conduit ends screwed in. New brass studs made in house with original wing nuts.

old & new front junction box showing the obvious rust jacking damage which is a real shame. 

old/new front/rear boxes together, interesting the original boxes were cast iron/steel and the 1 original lid is aluminium.

Jason will be painting the trailer some point this week so hopefully over the weekend will get a lot of parts fitted😋

regards Sam 

10 hours ago, Diamondt969a said:

It did, yes. I had understood the recovery gear was from a 969. The last I heard of it was that it was derelict here in Kent, but that was a few years ago. 

Reuben.

the Telstar 981 is in a yard near Lutton and is just a parts truck know, the radiator top tank is on my 980, complete rear cross member is know in another 981 near bristol slowly being restored to a high standard. the hercules engine has been removed and semi stripped to go in another 981 but think that plan is no longer happening. the cab went in the scrap i believe as it was folded up flat on the floor when i seen it 6 years ago. certainly wont ever see a road ever again but i know the chassis set up is very rare. 1 of 2-3 built??  

Been busy last couple of weeks doing various little but same time big jobs, making all the various parts that were either missing or original but not to this trailer fit. 1st job make new A frame pins aka big nuts & bolts which are 1 3/8” shank with a 1” UNS thread. Simple enough machining job but I did choose to counter bore the back side of the nuts to allow the shank of the bolts to come all the way through plus a bit so there is maximum shank being used. 

one un foreseen issue was the bore dia of the fixing eyes on the A frame which were 1 1/4” dia not 1 3/8”. So Fruehauf decided the pins needed to be an 1/8” bigger for some reason. Reason the A frame is wrong is it’s from a different trailer because the original a frame was twisted and had a very badly worn and beaten pintle eye and mount. So I bought the old a frame that was on another well travelled trailer in preservation and replaced the pintle and mount with new parts. So to fix the problem luckily I had a rota brooch the right size and managed to get the big mag drill set up on the A frame as pictured below. And was able to open the pin holes up an 1/8” with ease.  

A frame sorted moved onto the trays that run down the middle of the trailer for the winch cable to lay in. All 3 sections are original but not a matching set as the middle section is a fabrication we’re the other 2 are pressed. It does look a little odd as they don’t line up perfectly but there from different trailers and have had a life. Which I don’t mind as they didn’t stay factory spec very long in service and have wartime photos of them bent, mangled and torn off were trackless tanks have been dragged over them.

this long section was on my trailer when I got it but was welded to the trailer which caused a lot of the rust problems in the middle of the trailer frame. Decided to weld on brackets and make it bolt on cause you want to be able to remove it so you can service the rear brake chambers and linkages. 

moving onto the rear chain locker lid which was missing to begin with. This is 3/8” thick which I know will bend from experience with a good friends trailer 🤦‍♂️. So originally the hinges were welded to both the lid and the trailer from factory but I have decided to have one end bolted so if I bend the lid I can remove it and sort it out. The hinges are NOS half track door hinges which are a nice heavy hinge. Original hinges should be a bit wider and obviously no bolt holes, but can only work with what’s available. 

hinge spacers welded to trailer cross member and tapped 3/8” unc all the way through.  

the 2 unused holes will be filled with weld.

Lastly a few pics of the J hooks fitted so you can see how they work.

so the chain locker lid needs all the little features making and fitting then that’s done which finishes the rear end off. Got a few other little parts to make that need welding on then ready to prep the trailer for final paint and all the rusty parts can go to be blasted and painted. In all getting very close to wiring and plumbing 😋

regards Sam

Been fighting the weather a bit but got the ramps them selves finished yesterday and got the J hooks made which stop the ramps from bouncing over when running empty. These trailers have zero suspension on the rear and when empty they bounce a lot going down the road.

bars tacked on and used as guides to drill holes in ramps.

pre heating before welding as there is a lot of cold metal and using 3.2 mm rods they tend to lay down a lot smoother when everything is already hot. Also reduces stress on welds as they contract.

holes counter sunk and M20 10.9 bolts fitted. Originally they were just bolted but seen loads were there welded to and some of the bars on the beaver tail are welded. So going with bib and braces as the bars on the ramps get a much harder life than those at the top of the beaver tail. 

handles bent up and welded same as originals, next parts to make are the nuts & bolts that hold the ramp hinges to the trailer frame. Currently got some bits of 1” bsp pipe acting as pins as there correct o/d.

making the J hooks which hold the ramps in the stowed position.

Have thick walled whitworth nuts in stock so just have to castellate them, simple enough job on the mill.

finished items, these are not exactly as they should be I don’t think but there are no pics I can find in service. Also the parts book doesn’t show a broken down image just a tiny image of a complete assembly which I can’t see how it actually works. so have gone with my own style as I was lucky to find the springs at GDSF. 

 

was 8pm when I finished them so will take pics in the day time on the trailer. Start looking at getting the winch cable trays installed on the deck as the next big job then can make the rear chain locker lid.

regards Sam

productive weekend getting this pocket cleaned out and painted prior to fitting the original cover plate. This is were the copper air lines run inside the neck through the small hole then down to the break valves which bolt to the chassis. This pocket was never painted before as there isn’t any real access to do so after plate is welded on. This is why I removed it to clean/paint to help look after the steel.

painted back side of cover plate to help as much as possible.

next job sort out the components to make the ramp hinges and get the ramps fitted and hinge properly.

hinge assemblies finished and tread bars for ramps drilled, these will be bolted on with counter sunk 10.9 M20 bolts and fully welded as don’t want to rip them off!

outer hinge brackets welded on.

must of got something right as they connected and hinged up perfectly, very happy so far. Got handles to make/fit and the tread plates to fit then there ready for blasting/paint. Glad it’s looking more finished all the time.

8 hours ago, Niels v said:

Where did the M10 come from besides Israel, ex budge? 

ex wheatcroft 

Saturday was a big day for the Rogers as time had come for it to stand on all 24 feet. Wayne Meadows very kindly came over with the Foden as it was definitely the safest way to perform the manoeuvre. 

 

after flipping the Rogers we needed the M10 (a whole different head ache😂) moving into the shed so it’s positioned ready to start on that for next year. Not sure if I’ll do a thread on that but will see when the time comes.

today I fitted a few bits to the Rogers then decided sod it needs to be done. 

1st time my truck has been coupled to a Rogers I believe in 70 years. Still a lot to do before Armour & Embarkation but will do what I can to get it properly finished. 
 

regards Sam

On 1/20/2024 at 3:01 AM, wwiitrucks said:

Evening Sam

The tires on my rogers are Italian, They still look good but there are two that brake was stuck on and they dragged the trailer long enough to grind them all the way into the tube. 

I have never seen a trailer tire so thick, It must be 2 inch's thick and like a motorcycle tube in it. My trailer was also widen for I think M47 tanks so that might be why it has super duty tires on it.

Wish I could find 2 to match the rest.

Jeff

 

morning Jeff

sounds like your trailer has the solid rubber infills in side the tires to deal with the weight of the heavier tanks. if i'm right there will be no tube valves in the rim at all which case you want to be careful with them as a friend had them on his rogers and first time he went up the road the tire fell apart leaving the solid rubber core on the rim.

regards Sam 

22 hours ago, wwiitrucks said:

Sam

£3000   for 24 tires,flaps and tubes.  That is one heck of a deal, I need some.

Beautiful job on trailer, Cant wait to see it back on its shoes as I call them.

Jeff

good evening Jeff

Empire tires here in the UK know supply new correct style and spec rogers tires with tubes and flaps.

think there £240 per tire/flap/tube so £5760 to rubber a rogers, there on milweb we had some british pattern tires from them for our ww2 morris's and there really nice tires. 

the new Continentals on mine are MOD spec low loader tires and i was very very lucky to buy them from a friend who started a rogers project but stopped as the trailer was just to far gone. the tubes & flaps i got from my local tire fitter, which was the cheapest option for the amount needed.  

regards Sam

12 hours ago, Packhow75 said:

How many hours of time do you think it took?

 

 

no idea really, took me 8 months or so just to sort all the rot out in it. don't think i want to know how many hours of my life are in it lol. owned it 2 years know i think and been consistently working and hunting parts for it. hopefully the truck and trailer will perform well at Armour & Embarkation this year and possibly Capel then XXX core Holland.    

jason brought the rear axles over today and we wasted no time getting them fitted and the tyres all set up, which was a decent 3 hr job start to finish. A lot of time money and effort has payed off with fantastic results!! Got a few bits to bolt on then it can be flipped over, have a few bits welded on followed by more paint. 
To put into perspective just the scale of the running gear overhaul here’s the main costs.

24 new tyres with tubes/flaps £3000

24 new timken wheel bearings £4000

24 new break linings £1000

4 nos break chambers £500 

blasting/paint, materials, newly made parts, labour etc £5500

total 14K to refurb all the running gear and the dolly frame and this doesn’t include my own time. Crazy yes worth it? to me definitely!! Really looking forward to putting the truck & trailer through their paces this summer at Armour & Embarkation and XXX core Holland.

Best regards Sam

42 minutes ago, attleej said:

When I did the big trailer I spent £11,000 on materials and that was between '96 and 2001.  And Sam is is doing a far better job than I did!  It really is 'off the scale'.  

John

thank you john appreciate your kind words.

material wise were not that far apart although i got less hubs (12) i think than your big trailer it's safe to assume the parts are nearly twice as expensive know. i'll have a good think and wright down what just the running gear has cost not including labour.

regards sam

1 minute ago, john1950 said:

You are brave doing costings.

maybe John 

thing is a lot of people have no idea what it can cost to do these big jobs properly so i think it's not a bad idea to shed some light on the matter. i have always been fairly open with people with what i have spent on the truck and trailer and i have never regretted one penny i have spent on them so far. 

rear axle assemblies finished and ready to be fitted Thursday 😋. has taken a lot of effort to get this far from the last post as Jason has had to individually shim each brake shoe to get them all to work together properly. But was a necessary chore as even with good breaks I know you can easily get out of control on a hill. So got to be safe and right to begin with, plus means very little maintenance for many years to come which is a good thing!
 

Ounce it’s all fitted next week I’ll break down the cost just to do the running gear on the whole trailer. Give everyone an idea of what is involved in the process.

best regards Sam 

good evening Jeff

i emailed you some pics of the rollers yesterday just making sure you got them?

regards sam

i know David wildenberg and Bart Ammeraal fairly well been swapping dt parts for years. 

David usually comes over end of january for the Stoneleigh militaria fair so i can certainly get the fare lead rollers there with no issue or cost. 

i'll send you some pics tomorrow asap and see were we end up

regards Sam  

i'll take some pics for you Jeff

i got a parts truck here with the whole lot on and i'd say it's all original as it went into a scrap yard in the 80's and i dragged it out 3 years ago.

biggest problem i am in the UK so dread to think what shipping will cost.

regards sam

Hi Jeff

do you need the whole assembly, so the 2 end castings, shafts and rollers?

regards sam

After waiting 3 weeks the last of the break linings are here and Jason has wasted no time getting them fitted.

3 hours ago, john1950 said:

A friend with a Foden Recovery is a friend indeed. I think there is also a Ward La France waiting in the wings. I was told once they had to change the name Foden to Poden in Spain, 

i don't have a ward got a 969 to put back together, never liked the wards far as driving as the steering wheel is to close, they got the diamonds spot on. 

3 hours ago, Citroman said:

Nice, it will get heavier with any time you bolt something on to it. We did lift heavy things at the local industry museum on unorthodox ways too. For example a forklift with a long beam of wood in  the back with some  people on it for counter balance. 😉

when i originally rolled the trailer over i already had the front dolly removed but the rear bogie's were still fitted, getting the trailer on it's side with the telehandler and forklift was easy. lowering it back down while trying to reach over wasn't the best as nearly had both machines on their sides. so lesson learn't and i don't want to scratch all the paint either lol.

8 hours ago, Citroman said:

Nice job, how do you turn that thing around??

as it is i use a forklift at one end and a telehandler at the other just to move it around. flipping it over i have been getting away with a 3 ton capacity telehandler but know the dolly is on and soon the rear bogies. i shall get a friend in with his 6x6 foden military wrecker to flip it onto it's wheels ounce there fitted. the deck by itself is 4 ton so the telehandler has been over worked a bit. with the complete bogies fitted it's around 8 ton, will be a 9 ton trailer ounce all together.  

fitted the spring clips to the side for keeping the D rings in the vertical position. Managed to save 1 original and had 13 newly made, the 4 on the side of the trailer in pic 2 are to stow the turn buckle spanner.

chains & clips fitted to keep the spare wheel racks in the stowed position.

Hoping to have the rear bogies back in the next 2 weeks so very close to having it upright again. So nice to be doing clean jobs after a year of welding, cutting and grinding.