paulbrook

Now thats what I call a restoration project. Good effort!

Now you will need to find about 30 cases of Herforder Pils (Yellow Handbags) to stow in all the various nooks and crannies to make it completely realistic.

Actually no - come to think of it thats not all. You will need a dead gun tank on a holleybone behind it to make it completely realistic.....

Its a heck of a long time since I did business with him but there was an excellent fellow by the name of Pete Toombs (might be spelled wrong..) from Emsworth who did lots of Jeep work.

In essence the rust is easy to deal with (well. relatively easy). There are virtually no compound curves so life is quite peachy in terms of tinbashing. But the real dillemma (and one that plenty of folk I deal with wrestle with) is where you have a complete and running machine. To really get to grips with rot you need to get at it. To get at it you need to remove stuff, and that seems a shame and a lot of hard work. Which it is.

I have done lots of this sort of thing (www.rustytrucks.com) and I can promise that it will be worse than it looks. That is not to be pessimistic, it is just healthy reality. On the upside your jeep is well worth the effort and as I say, straightforward to do. I did one years ago (pre hobby MIG) that had come back from the Falklands after the war and was so rotten that it had been folded in half by a forklift. Get down to Dunelm (thats right - the fabrics place) and buy half a dozen storage boxes (at £2.99 apiece), strip out the bits near the rust and label and store them properly and then go for it.

I know a splendid blast cleaning team if you need that sort of work (and before anyone says "ooooooo no blast cleaning blew holes in my morris minor" these folks can take the paint off a beercan without marking the aluminium and the paint off a lightbulb so a Jeep tub is going to be just fine..)

If you want any advice, pm me and I will try and help out.

Porsche was at it back in 1901!

 

It's interesting to see what has happened in warships as they share some of the considerations of AFVs in terms of power density. Most RN vessels are now electrically propelled, mainly because it allows you to run small fuel-efficient prime movers at low speed and only fire up the bigger ones when you need the power for high speed transits. The other factor is the high ratio of hotel load to propulsion load, something also common to cruise ships. For an AFV this only really makes sense if you've got a high electrical load for weapons (rail gun) or armour (electric armour).

 

Andy

Having spent time in both armour and HM war canoes I can say for sure that the former do not have karaoke machines in the wardroom needing power...

As I said previously it the volume that counts (that's volume as in dimensions not loudness of the karaoke)

The answer is volume, as that is the key thing for armoured vehicles

You need to get the power you need to the tracks (or more properly the ground) using as little hull volume as possible, as each square cm of space has to have armour round it, and its one of those square law things where doubling the volume triples the armour needed (and hence weight, meaning more power needed and so on)

The current state of technology is in favour of the mechanical drive on the critical volume equation. Its a close run thing though and there are plenty out there with things electrical on the table.

I too recommend Vactan - and also the thinner Fertan (I did my Mack chassis with that). But users of Vactan in particular should ensure that there is plenty of thickness (the recommendation is 60 microns which is pretty thick - at least three and probably 4 good coats) or else you will be disappointed.

Fertan can be put on with a garden spray and then you can pressure wash the excess off bringing off all the loose rust , it is brilliant for complicated stuff like suspension and springs and so on (in fact I am going to experiment with the underneath of a landrover soon). It is also supposed to be v ery good for spraying inside box sections. But unlike Vactan it needs to be overprimed.

I will ask those in the know, but I am pretty certain that the SV underseal is not water based. But then again I have been wrong before.

Off to watch some paint dry now...

In have just relaised that I have put 2 or 3 posts in a thread about paint.......

A lot of service vehicles are never undersealed anyway. Reason being the stuff burns.

Paradoxically (bearing in mind the threat where they are being used right now) the latest MAN SV's are undersealed with a sort of waxoil type stuff.

Oh and these guys are excellent too:

http://rust.co.uk/?gclid=CKX-1cifkKsCFYUntAodDle9tQ

I particularly recommend the epoxy mastic paint.

They are ISO container size on the outside, but the bale bar makes the loadbed shorter than 20 ft. So the actual load bed is 8 ft wide by 19 ft 3 long as I recall.

If you want to carry a container you need a rack with the twistlocks that fold out at the back.

Just in response to the Edbro question - initially all the trials vehicles had Marshalls bodies. They had all been built to a WD specification which went back to the year dot, whereas the "user" expected something a bit more up to date - and something which could be operated (if you can operate a cargo body) and reconfigured by a single person.

After a bit of a three way dust up (MOD procurers, the people who had to use them, and the manufacturers who quite rightly said hang on - this is what you have asked for) Leyland bit the bullet and in a very short period of time came up with the body you now see.

It wasn't the reason that the Leyland was chosen, but Leyland were determined to try and meet the users requirement, not the requirements of the suits behind desks and their chums the beancounters.

I know that the majority of folk know what they are doing when they buy a big toy like this but as an ex and highly experienced DROPS man could I just say that if anyone is thinking of using one to transport anything high and heavy they really need to take care (there are lots and lots of ways to kill yourself and others with a DROPS truck).

If anyone needs advice, please pm me.

oops ........upside down. Too early!

Eeeeek

Total restoration.....brave. But then again why not?

If you think I could help then get in touch - I am in the NW and my website is www.rustytrucks.com.

This was mine (it is now in Holland..)

Yup

But not telling just yet.......

Suffice to say that the outcome should suit everyone who has taken an interest!

Funny old thing...

In my uniformed yoof I ran the user trial on these 2 (and a Volvo as it happens....) and guess what? The Leyland was the better all round truck. The Volvo was nice though (and fast, utterly reliable and superb off road) and might have pipped the Leyland except for the size of the cab and a couple of other details.

If you ask me nicely Ill tell you why the Leyland has an Edbro and not a Marshall body..

Oh and heres a top tip (cos it happened to me........) Keep searching ebay for your missing bits. I did, I saw my missing item, was able to id it to the police and bingo, perpatrator remanded in custody awaiting crown court.....

There is a very good company that advertise on ebay by the name of Jawel. Give them a go..

I have found that underseal falls into 3 categories; the black stuff that has hardened off - needle gun or air chisel with a blunt flat end and not too much pressure - if you are lucky it will rattle off in big sheets. Second is the same stuff but softer, in which case a hot water pressure washer gives excellent results (works on the hard stuff too). On my website there is a spitfire (car) that was covered in the stuff including under the bonnet (www.rustytrucks.com) which was all removed in quick time with these two methods. The third stuff is a rubbery compound which is virtually impossibe to get off except with an air chisel.

If you want to put anything on the underside (and I doubt you do) other than paint use the overpaintable stonechip.

Lovers of Russian equipment! See now the ad in classified section for splendid and genuine officer greatcoat as taken by nefarious means by western capitalist lakey......

Proceeds to H4H - just the job for any Kraz or TEL owner who wants to cut a dash....

Assuming that you have done the left hand right hand thread thing, and the "normal" extension thing, then my strong recommendation is not to put a 6ft scaffold bar on and jump on it. Not unless you like replacing wheel studs that is (although to be fair it isnt that difficult).

Get a grinder with a plasma disc (the thin 1.5mm ones used for stainless steel) and slit the side of the nut taking care to miss the thread and dont go too deep or you will damage the wheel. You dont need to cut an entire slice off, just make as deep a slot as you dare.

Now while the thing is hot give it a go again. There is a good chance that it will move. If not, open the gap a bit and get some Plus Gas in there. If that does not work try another slot on the other side (the wheelnut material is effectively made much thinner and more pliable where the slot is).

If that fails then get the 6ft scaffold pole out ............

What you want to find are the LCT Mk III Docking Plans, these will give the loading points for the hull and what they're stressed for. The National Maritime Museum in Greenwich should have these.

Or try Port and maritime Wing of the Defence School of Logistics (based in Marchwood which, incedentally, would be a grand place for an LCT to end up).

I know of a number of navigators and marine engineers with LCT experience (the Army used them right into the 1970s) so if I can be of assistance I would be glad to help.

I used Cast Iron Welding Ltd for my 1929 Mack cylinder heads (see www.rustytrucks.com). On the plus side they were excellent. On the minus side I was gutted that my heads were about the smallest job in there (the place was full of bits of Tower Bridge at the time).

So a big thumbs up from me.....

Aha....

Definitely 3 Tk Tptr Sqn, probably parked on the old B3 at Gronau during one for the big exercises...the train has its hessian screens and "hidden" fire extinguishers (so the Russians don't know what it is). And I can name at least half of the 3 crews in the picture.....

Not my pic..

Looks like 3 Sqn, North Germany late 70's early 80s....I think I could name more than one of these fine if slightly grubby gentlemen (but not the civvies....)