Swill1952xs

I may be stupid asking this, but........... does the colour of military vehicle engines vary according to the age of the vehicle, whether it's been overhauled or dependant on who made the vehicle.

 

I need some engine paint for my Albion. The sump appears to be something like duck egg green. The top of the engine appears not to have been painted, but that could be because it may not be of military origin. Can some knowledgeable person tell me what colour it should be? Would the gearbox be the same colour as the engine or the same as the rest of the vehicle? (Gloss green)

 

At the risk of sounding like a cheapskate, and bearing in mind that most enthusiasts rarely see the engine; perhaps I should just paint the sump, as this is the only part of the engine that could be seen without removing the engine covers..................

 

Wacha fink..........hmm. :???

Albion identity confirmed.....................

 

He had spoken to the Albion Archive about this truck, so I presume that is where the photo came from.

Not sure which mk is which:confused:

 

Well................. I can tell you what the second photo is :-D

 

It's an Albion WD HD 23N, and I'm pretty sure that was the one I tried to buy off a chap in West Sussex. He had it up for sale at 1500 pounds and it still had the original petrol engine in it. It had about 6,000 miles on the clock and the cab was near perfect, although the wing mountings were pretty poor.

When I tried to buy it off him, he had changed his mind about selling it and was going to put an AEC 760 engine in it. The last picture of it I saw was when he had taken the engine out. He was in the process of moving out of his yard and I haven't been able to contact him for some time. I would have liked to see how he got on with the conversion; bearing in mind that the Albions gear linkage is mounted on the engine crankcase.

He was in the scrap metal business and was going to fit a flat bed on the back for carrying scrap cars.

Sadly they were scrapped. See this link

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=5377&page=3

 

I have more photos of them from about eight years ago. I'll scan them in later.

 

Same infuriating story............. they want four grand for them when they are selling them and end up scrapping them; getting a fraction of what they were asking for them in the first place. :argh:If they had an ounce of compassion for people who want to buy trucks to restore, they would or should have contacted the would be buyers and at least offered them for sale at a price a little higher than the final scrap value. :??? I'm surprised the Albion Trust didn't beg them not to scrap them, bearing in mind that they were living on their doorstep. :???:??? What a sad waste of rare trucks????

I am overhauling the front brakes on Forceful, I need to find new gaiters for the brake expanders and for the servos, has any one found a source for these or know of a cross referenced part number for something else that uses the same type?

 

Any help on this would be much appreciated.

 

Do you have any dimensions for the gaiters?

 

I have several trucks and trailers around where I work, and may be able to identify one that may be readily available from a repeatable source. I'm thinking of things like the handbrake chamber on our Leyland freighter, or the ones fitted to modern air brake chambers on our trailers. You could try ringing BTR's. They may be able to help you if they can see one in the flesh. (Or rubber)

Questions for Bernard (If I may be so bold as to call you by your first name....er......... Sir ) :-D

 

Bein' the nosey git I am......doesn't the area between the seal and the axle stub have any lubricant in it. Common sense says that a minimally greased seal will dry out in a fairly short time?

 

Is the grease for initial lubrication only, or is this the only source of lubrication for the hub?

 

Are the steering swivels oil filled like a Land Rover, and if so does the oil not get in the hub to lubricate both?

 

Is the hub capable of being filled with a heavy oil, like a 140 gear oil, and if so would it provide better lubrication for the seal; improving its life expectancy, and provide cooling for it?

 

Were the original seals made of rubbery stuff like the ones you've fitted, or would they have had something harder as a sealing face? Thinking of a carbon ring seal like a water pump impeller seal, or maybe a rubberised leather seal would have been better, bearing in mind that it has adequate pressure behind it to make a good seal against the axle.

 

The reason I ask all these irritating questions is that I would be worried if that was mine and the seal didn't have a constant source of lubricant to stop it from burning out. I would have thought leather seals would have been better. Presumably the other side doesn't suffer the same problem.

Another possibility could be that the seal support ring could be slightly distorted, putting uneven pressure on the seal, causing it both to leak and overheat locally. Above all; I hate recurring mechanical problems. Doing a job twice always pees me off. :argh:

 

Jus' tryin' to be helpful. :-D :n00b:

 

P.S.......... :idea: Spose you could always put a pliable leather washer between the rubber seal and the axle sealing face.............Might work.

Thers The Slaughters up in Wiltshire.

 

There's Slaughters in Sussex............... that was my wife's name before I married her.

 

Oh and we've got Horney Common near Nutley too. Sounds a bit like some girls I knew.................Horny and Common :cool2:

Cheers for the piccies CW..........:thumbsup:

 

I can just see it now, advertised in the Estate Agents window.

 

Charming property in quiet rural setting, in need of modernisation. Splendid views across the coast. Historical past, numerous outbuildings, heating installed, access by road or air. Would suit person who appreciates peace and quiet and has a love of wildlife. :-D

RNAS Twatt,or HMS Tern.Orkney islands.ww2 air base.

 

Shame it's in the middle of nowhere.......... be nice to see it restored. Apart from that, you could turn it into one of those contemporary homes. I wonder what other buildings are attached to it.

I really don't know............... but it is more than likely it wont be too far away from the temperature and fuel gauges, as they would be the main reason for having one.

The name voltage stabiliser is a bit misleading really as it works like a flasher unit, providing intermittent current to heat controlled gauges. If you get a continuous flow of power to them; they just burn out as the needle deflection is controlled by heat produced in a bi- metallic strip, connected to the indicator needle.

A normal unit is about an inch and a half long by about an inch, and about half an inch deep. It usually has two terminals on the back and sometimes an earthing leg which secures it in place. Very often it is mounted directly on the back of the gauges and plugged into a circuit board............... but being military.............. its probably behind the interior light and about a foot square. :-D

Thank you .... thank you..............THANK YOU...:yay::yay::yay:

 

At last............. I love the look of CX's, know next to nothing about them, so I'm absolutely delighted that you've found the time to start your blog again.

I thought the cab was wooden framed and steel clad. I didn't realise the cab was almost entirely wood.

 

Thanks again for the pictures. I'm really looking forward to seeing more of this vehicle. I presume it all runs and drives/

 

P.S. I see we have another CX hidden from us at the moment. I came across a new members name while looking for posts on CX22's. He is known as TheAlbionCX22Ownerfrom Ireland. He joined the forum on the 9th March and as yet he hasn't made any posts. I sent him a message about a week ago and had no reply. Maybe I scared him off by telling him that he automatically qualified to be put on my friends list, as he was an Albion owner. Maybe he just joined to find out what the website had to offer. Probably never hear from him again. :???

Parker Steel, Zintec, cold rolled general purpose, mild steel, 2.5 x 1.25

 

http://www.parkersteel.co.uk/macros/Product.mac/Product?VisitorID=VVVVVF9K9V1&Status=guest&From=home&Product_No=0086347&MatrixURL=%2Fmacros%2FHierarchy.mac%2FMatrix%3FVisitorID%3DVVVVVF9K9V1%26Status%3Dguest%26From%3Dhome%26table_ref%3D21

 

Give them a ring for small orders, I use the and they will deliver small lots.

I wonder if they can get larger sizes cut to special order. What I really need for the back panel, is 2.0 metres x 1.5, which will give me more than enough to make the folding return edge on the panel. 1.25 I've just discovered is just on four feet.............. aren't I a silly old Hector.:red:

dont know where or when this was.

 

Is it that Army driving school again............. That Dude looks pretty pleased with himself for getting his truck balanced on top of those blocks. :-D

 

The picture has that seventies look about it. The truck itself has a more civilian look about it from the cab and wheels point of view.

I've been looking around various websites looking for some suitable steel to use in the cab restoration. So far all I've discovered is that most of the companies I knew have been swallowed up by the bigger fishes, and all you can get now is steel sheet in stupid metric sizes. :n00b:

 

What the :argh: happened to the 8 x 4 sheets we used to be able to get................. all you seem to be able to get width wise, is either 1.0 metre wide or 1.25 metres. Absolutely no 'kin use whatsoever. I don't want to make the :argh:back panel in two sections, cos it wasn't like that in the first place. A four foot sheet is pushing it a bit but at least it would just about do the job.

 

8 x 4 sheets were a good idea for transport; they could either be put crossways across a truck, or two packs side by side..........great idea.

Now we get these stupid sizes that are about as much use as a chocolate teapot. :banghead:

Anyone know someone who does sensible sized sheets? (South East of Londinium) What I really want is 2.5 x 1.5 metres in 1.0 mm. The front of the cab is made from 1.5mm stuff, but I can buy some sheets about the right size for that.

 

Oh.......... an' paint's the other thing. I have 5 litres of the gloss green, but would like it painted in the deep bronze green ? but with a satin finish, because I don't think it would look right in high gloss. Gloss also shows up blemishes more too. I want it to look smart, but not overdone. The matt Nato green looks too modern for this truck.

Anyone know where you can get good quality paint for less than a tenner a litre. I will be asking the local tractor dealers as they used to do Land Rover green paint at a very good price, but I would need to check up on the colour.

pictures taken in 1990 Travellors at a concert site.

Wonder where it is now.

 

Ooooooooh..........................spare parts......... well it is an 'N', and a fairly solid looking one.

Obviously summer time, because they don't have heaters..............got plenty of ventilation though. :-D

gents i am in need of some engine mounts i have the robush catalog infront of me i just need to know wot the seizes they are :confused:

 

my front mount on the engine is to badly worn to get an acurate size from

 

can eny one help :sweat:

 

If the front ones look like this......... contact BigChris. He had some made.

 

 

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=4490&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1231329356

A very interesting vehicle, esp being a short wheelbase 3 way tipper, I'll certainly be looking forward to its completion.

I see it's got an auxillary low range box fitted which I believe is quite easy to turn round to give a bit more speed.

Keep up the good work 'Swill'- I will let you know if I come across an Edbro 3 way body, but if it's still attached to a Militant, I'll be buying it complete!!:-D

 

I had wondered about the reduction box and whether it was possible to either reverse the gears or the whole unit.

The mountings are different from end to end and the speedo drive comes off the back output shaft, so reversing it is out of the question. I have a complete unopened unit on the donor truck, and will probably have a good look inside that one to investigate the possibilities. My first priority is to get the cab done and get it on the road. I doubt whether I will achieve it, but there is a local show in September that I am using as a target to at least get it on the road.

My hunt for a tipper body will be my next priority, but if I can't find one, I have considered trying to rebuild it to an acceptable standard, or fitting a cargo body until something turns up. I don't hold out much hope of finding one really, as I would imagine that out of the few of these that were made, most would have ended up being put on something else or turned into a trailer. As they say though.... something may turn up.

 

I will tell you something though; if you can find one on a Millie, you certainly won't be selling it as they are probably as rare as the proverbial rocking horse poo. Yo may also find that there will be people clambering over one another trying to buy it off of you, judging by the comments made about mine and the Millie pictures. I'd love to have a Millie tipper, and of course an Albion CX22 gun tractor, both fantastic looking trucks.

 

P.S. That aint rust under the truck................... its good old brick yard dirt, which has done a grand job of protecting the paint under it. I'm glad I wasn't stupid enough to clean it all off when I got it all those years ago.

That is spot on Will, I have a clever bit of kit that bolts on in place of the adjuster and makes turning the ring easier.

 

Turning the adjuster ring can be a real pain when the thread gets full of dust, so no doubt thats where the special tool comes in handy.

 

Lucky you...... have you got a special tool that stops all the crap dropping on your face when you manually adjust the clutch........ :-D

This is exactly why I have no clutch brake fitted to my Cummins in Forceful, it had been already been chewed off when I got it and I never thought I'd need one, but it is almost impossible to get in gear stationary when the box is hot.

 

The damage to the shaft from the gearbox box as found, not very clear because of the shadow, but there is a worn groove round it and the slot is damaged.

 

 

 

 

Presumably you've fitted a new shaft, but not a new clutch brake. If you fit a new brake disc you will have a perfectly adequate clutch brake, and will overcome any problems regarding engaging gears from standstill. You must make sure though that you only use it for initial engagement, and never push the clutch right to the stop when the vehicle is rolling with a gear engaged, or the same will happen again.

Presumably also yours is a puller clutch. The correct adjustment for this clutch with the clutch pedal at rest is 1/2" between the release bearing and the gearbox extension housing. (With the brake disc pushed towards the release bearing) If your clutch is a manually adjusted version; adjustment is made on some of them by removing a locking tab from the clutch cover, and getting someone to hold the clutch pedal down, and rotating the internal castellated ring inside the clutch cover. Turning it clockwise a few notches; moves the release bearing towards the gearbox.

There is a version of this clutch with automatic adjustment, but if it has a single forked tag with one bolt in it; then it is manual adjust. I have a page on it at work with a proper explanation of the two types of adjustment. On this type of clutch; if the gap is excessive, you may experience clutch slip too.

 

Another version depending on the clutch manufacturer has a threaded tube the release bearing pushes on. Closest to the clutch cover, on this threaded tube, is a notched ring, which is a locking ring. Undo the locking ring with a long bar and a hammer and with the clutch at rest; unwind the threaded tube until there is half an inch clearance as with the other type. These are a lot easier to adjust.

If you simply fit a new brake disc, it will transform driving your old dear to the point that you wont bother with a car for shopping, because you will prefer to drive the Scammell. :-D

ps i left in 2 of the studs on the gearboxend to act as location dowles when assembling.

 

Clever little bu**er, aren't you. What an ingenious modification. I often wondered how a conversion like that was done.

 

How did you cut the end off the gearbox?.............. not with a hacksaw I hope :sweat::-D

Will, if you get time, would you please include a close up 'photo of the type of headlights fitted to your lorry ? Thanks.

 

These are the type of headlights I'm looking for. As I said previously, they are the same as the ones for sale on E bay, apart from them having an embellisher ring or rim between the front flange of the headlight and the mounting bowl. It looks like a normal headlamp embellisher rim fitted the wrong way round; which is why I call them "Inside out headlamps" :-D

 

 

The ring I am talking about sits between the visible slots of the mounting bowl and covers the space between the two parts of the headlight.

The corroded aluminium plinth is an Albion part and is not part of the headlamp assembly.

 

 

 

 

Er........ this is the view from the front, showing the embellisher ring around the outside edge.

Hope you can understand which part I'm trying to describe.

Hello Richard,

the only Albion I could find with a front panel the same as the moribund Albion in your picture, was a 1954 HD 57 eight wheeler. I believe cabs were made by several different manufacturers so I would imagine this is what the cab should look like. The design of the front panel is the same as my Albion, and my cab was made by A. C. Penman's of Dumfries.

 

http://truck-photos.net.s3.amazonaws.com/108.jpg

 

Will it ever look like this.

Perkins Eagle? what happened to RR eagle ,all ours were RR badged.Hard to start in the cold smokey old buggers wasnt impressed,prefered our AECs.We had Perkins V8s no head gaskets if i remember correctly,Then Ford put there Rocker cover on them and called them Fords.:-D

 

Bloo*y Rolls Royce sold their engine plant off to Perkins destroying the status of the engine overnight. Still a super engine, mine (My ERF at work) starts perfectly no matter how cold, and never smokes from cold either. Puffs a bit of black before the turbo pressure builds up on the upchanges, but only momentarily.

Perkins V8's.............. yeeeeeeuk..........nasty piece of junk. Sound nice, always run cold, gutless and usually drink oil. I had two new ones back in the seventies in Ford artics and apart from the sound, I wasn't impressed.

Strange about Ford insisting on their name on the rocker covers of the PV8 because they never did it on the Cummins V8........ Wierd. :cool2:

Just found this in a book I had forgotten I had,

 

Mechanical training volume 11 general mechanical principles of tracked and wheeled vehicles 1953, a snappy title!

 

The gear selection advice sounds more applicable to a petrol engined version of the subject vehicle. Diesel engines often produce their maximum torque at lower engine revs than a petrol. Use of the clutch brake on up changes may apply to a higher revving petrol where you could rev it to nearly full throttle before you change gear, (To get max torque) and would then have the problem of slowing the clutch plate to engage the next gear.

Most of the older diesels rev to about 1800 to 2000 rpm. On vehicles like this you wouldn't need to rev it more than 14-1500 before you change gear, as it would have the torque to pull the next gear up.

Similarly when pulling hard, unlike the petrol version where you would need to keep the revs up; the diesels revs can drop as low as 1000 rpm before you change down as they have the torque to do this. With a diesel engine you wouldn't use the clutch brake to either change up or down.

(Do it on a Fuller box and you will snap the drive lugs off the brake disc as soon as you attempt it)

The ERF with the Perkins Eagle that I drive has a clutch brake.

The torquey engine revs to 2000, you change up at 1700 absolute max, and change down at 11-1200 when the turbo starts to drop pressure. The first three gears can be changed without double de-clutching to keep the power up. (All up weight 40 tonnes) after that you can still do some very quick upchanges by double declutching. Coming down through the box you allow the engine revs to drop to about 1200 before changing down, otherwise the next gear down will have the engine revving its nuts off and be hard to engage.

 

Many years ago the company I worked for had a Pioneer. I drove it doing HGV recovery over a six month period, didn't know it had a clutch brake, or if it did, it didn't work, and had no problems changing up or down through the box once I got used to the gate.

 

Trust me.............:cool2: I've worked on trucks for nearly forty years (I don't know everything though) learned to drive on a "crash box" Leyland Chieftain and now a professional driver.

One suggestion I would make would be to fit a solenoid type fuel cut off switch, well hidden on the vehicle and activated by a hidden switch. This would prevent "Hot wiring" and driving away as they wouldn't get very far or anywhere before it gave up the ghost.

Obviously this wouldn't stop the thieves who use trailers or covered wagons to remove vehicles. Another suggestion would be something you could quite easily make yourself, would be a pendulum movement detector. This could be switched on when the vehicle is left. It would be connected to the horn so that any attempt to move it or drive it up ramps would sound the horn. It could also have its own power supply in the form of a motor cycle battery if required.

I am trying to suggest diy type deterrents as modern alarms are of little use on a vehicle with such basic electrics. All of these deterrents need to be well hidden and usually there is a box section somewhere on the vehicle you could hide them.

If your vehicle is worth a large sum, then I would suggest fitting a tracker to it. The biggest problem with that on a military vehicle, is that the antennae has to be somewhere it wont be obstructed by a metal panel. This one you'd need to think carefully about. The type of tracker I'm thinking about (A company called "Simply Trak") is permanently connected and transmitting and can be tracked on a computer via satellite.

Even if the power is disconnected, (It could have a back up battery) it will still show the last location of the vehicle. The most important thing about any deterrent is that it must delay thieves and certainly not be made obvious.

If like me you aren't swimming in money, you could always put a notice on the vehicle that a satellite tracking system is fitted to your vehicle. The thieves wouldn't know whether this was in fact true and would probably steal the vehicle next to yours instead. :-D