CharlieC

Hello Mike full nsn 7SA/2540-99-829-1802. Visually looks like Landrover nearest pt. no. I have found 75925B said to be Foden S10 Fleet master but that looks different. Thanks for looking Rgds Charles

Does anyone know which MV a Lucas 75926 24v wiper motor fits please

Yes the tyres are 16 ax 6.50 Hi Milers not 16 x 6 -- I see there are new alternatives and there may be secondhand wheels at Fairs? No I don't have a military log book with this vehicle and don't recall them from MVS. I gave those Lts to my sons.

Yes I feel better about the Project today and still can't believe my luck in finding an unwanted package of three working generators, two working cables, one working Mk4 Panel and one repairable Mk3 panel this week. This enabled various trial set ups separate from the under floor Mk4 panel and its cables to get a charging result with Clive's help as to what I should be looking for in U V inputs to the Mk3 Generator on the vehicle. What is IIRC ? --- thanks for mentioning I need a late model chassis with mounting points for the Generator we had not thought of that. The rest of the LLFFR has some rusty footwell holes which we will repair once the body is off but the upper bulkhead ventilation panel looks surprisingly good but the steel triangular lower door hinge panels are tatty, the hood is newish, engine is MOD recon seems to run OK and no apparent g/box problems. This is never going to be more than a run about, it has original type Goodyear 6.00 x 16 tyres but these seem hard to find now. MVS had heaps of them at Fradley (Lichfield) when I bought the last two lightweights about 20 years ago. I appreciate your continued support thank you. QUOTE=ruxy;495465]The strain should be starting to unburden. A new Richards galv. chassis will be a good plan , don't forget IIRC - you need to specify FFR and a late FFR chassis having the brackets to mount the regulator - this late spec. chassis will automatically have the reinforced dumb-irons that originated even earlier abt. 1980 What condition is the rest of the mechanicals , bodywork , upholstery - the normal footwells rot problem , having had two lightweights already - then you will be aware of the ventilator panel fabrication that can rust out. Even if you don't intend getting yourself a 'Unitary Radio Kit' , then obviously if you keep as original - always a good furure proof sales feature - too many L'wt FFR's have been butchered over last 10 years or so , often as one of the variations of 'ringer' for free road tax status.

Thanks for your comments, you are probably correct on suspecting the cable -- the elbow is a bit wobbly and suffering from a worn out thread --- hopefully the existing panel to generator cable, which looks better, will prove OK once I have checked the wiring continuity.

Finally some good news on charging the FFR Lightweight Batteries. This morning I proved the continuity on the spare shunt box cable I acquired this week so decided to look for U V output from the Mk 3 Generator panel acquired this week but found that although the current reached the post inside the box there was no output so maybe it can be repaired by fitting a new resistor as in All Charged Up? Next I connected this cable to the tatty Mk 4 panel also part of this weeks' job lot and was amazed to get out put from U and V. Then removed the lid to see which points were live between the in and out UV connectors. Next I looked under the floor at the vehicle Mk 4 Panel, removed the lid and checked for input from the shunt panel but there was none. Disconnected cable from shunt box to bench test wiring continuity from the yellow charge light connection needed for the exciting of the generator -- no continuity. so cable needs repair. Next hooked up the tatty MK 4 panel to shunt box and then to generator on the vehicle over the door with spare cable, connected ignition light to shunt box and ignition light came on for the first time. Started the engine and got 25.8 to 26 volt charge at battery terminals - fantastic. Strangely after switching the engine off the ignition warning light came back on so don't know why? Also I only ran the engine for 4 or 5 minutes and the Generator got quite Hot near the cable socket is that normal? It seems we are finally making some progress with all Clives' expertise -- Thankyou very much.

OK I'll try that -- on my back this time --. When my generators were being tested I noticed they put a shield between the U and V pins to stop any short circuit to the outer ring of the cable socket.

Yes a little silicon grease could improve the connections - thanks for suggestion.

Because I thought it would be better to have a MK 3 panel on the floor with the top off I have been using the "new cable" looped over the door. Following you advise I took the cable off the panel and checked the connectivity of U and V with a good result. On reassembly still no reading at generator cable terminal posts u and v. I thought this ignition light feed issue could have been the problem all along so have reconnected all the original cables to the shunt panel and tried getting an out put from the Mk 4 Panel under the floor but so far without success --- but I have not checked the original cable for continuity as it is difficult to remove.

The last week has been a steep learning curve on 24v Land Rovers and I'm still scratching the surface. Originally knowing that the vehicle would not charge my mindset was switch to 12v or to 24v using a Defender Alternator with built in regulator as I had read about the Mk4 generator panel and thought it very complicated. Unfortunately I did not read your excellent book All Charged Up from the outset which answers so many questions with photographs and diagrams as I did not imagine repairing the existing system. However contributor Roxy and your good self said I should at lease try to get it charging thru the old system to keep it as original as possible for future value and interest in Historic Vehicles. The fact that the ignition light never worked is now critical as the supply from that to the generator panel and thence the Generator Tickles the Alternator to get it to work as I see from your book. One of the white wires from the ignition switch at the fuse box connection has partly cooked so I have directly connected a wire from the fuse box terminal to the back of the charge/ignition light (which still does not work) and thence thru the brown and white wire to the yellow wire in the shunt box which is receiving current when the ignition switch is on. Even with the power to the yellow wire in the shunt box nothing seems to reach the U V pins. I have reconnected the MK4 Panel as was but still nothing at U V so I am wondering what feature in the Generator Panel blocks the current on the out put side?

Hello Clive Just been rechecking the U and V field winding connectors on the panel to generator cable with ignition on but there does not seem to be any voltage reading at all? when you refer to page 23 of what please?

How does 50 quid the lot sound! (these were not known to be Land Rover parts by the vendor). I think they may have only checked the main output but did have the field wiring connected to their control panel. So I now realise what u and v are and checked the resistance on the original generator at 43.7. One of the Mk2s gives a reading of 112 with some buzzing on the meter not present on the original alternator still fitted to the car. Does this indicate it would be worth changing to one of the new generators?

Hello Clive Further to this suggestion I could not get any voltage from the disconnected cable or measure the resistance of the Generator but this could be due to my multimeter or not being sure about pin U and V Meanwhile I have bought three new generators albeit Mk2 + 2 MK 4 Generator Panels with cable because they were a package of parts. I have had all three generators professionally bench tested and all perfect but the two Mk 4 Panels are as unknown as the one fitted to the vehicle. On getting home I wired the 'new' generator panel to the shunt box and have 23.7v at connection on right hand side of shunt box cable A. Also connected to existing Mk3 Generator but there is still no charge on running the engine. Nor is there any life from the ignition light. Disconnecting from the Generator I am not finding any power from the shunt box reaching this plugin connector. Next step is to try one of the proven MK2 Generators thru either of these Generator Panels but realise that this will not help the ignition light which is different on the MK2. This reminds me you did suggest checking T4 in the panel. Now that the 'new' panel is on the floor connected to earth via the battery -ve I could take the top off and look for T4. Rgds. Charles

Clive Thanks for all your help on this if the generator panel was not under the floor life would be easier. As it is I need to figure out which wire is attached to T4 run the motor with a third party helper, not here at the moment, and then do Generator checks so maybe tomorrow. Thanks Charles.

I had high hopes for that idea as a dodgy earth was quite likely but no change I am sorry to say.

OK I will try a cable directly from Negative terminal to generator panel casing and run her up again.

Have now removed generator panel cover to tighten the stud having earth wire attached --- no change to no charge. Interior of panel looks very clean with no sign of anything ever being disturbed. No i.d. on cover but it has socket on the side and a white plastic box in the centre which is the regulator module I think. Where would you test to see if there is any generator input?

Have now checked that once ignition light brown/yellow wire from shunt box to ignition light is connected to +ve the light stays on with engine ignition switched on or off. Battery voltage is 23.7 engine ignition off falls to 23.3 when engine running at any speed then picks back up to 23.6 when engine stopped. assume starter caused some drain. Looking under the floor at panel the stud at one corner which has earth strap attached is loose so I need to attend to that. Generator is Mk3, There is no serial number but a cross thru' the 1 on the name plate.

Hi -- no I bought from a fella who was going to convert to V8 then changed his mind but hadn't worried about 24v set up as he intended to change everything. All looks original with correct Mk3 generator, under floor Mk 4 panel, shunt box with one ammeter etc. QUOTE - thought restoring this one which I rescued from being converted to V8 should not be a problem. The owner told me it was not charging but it has two new batteries fully charged to make it driveable even has MOT until September 8. The plan is to change to galv. chassis but the 24v system is an issue I had not counted on or understand. ---- So - the engine is a V8 , can you show a photograph of the engine bay - I fear a jury rig and therefore have doubts about the drive belt(s) , lack of traction grip - then you will have generating problems as soon as you start to load up. I doubt if the hand-throttle is connected up ?

It would have been fantastic for you to run some checks but Staffordshire is a long way from you. The ignition light only works by connecting the wire separated from the yellow lead directly to a battery. Over the last two years I have been restoring a 15 year standing under a tree series 3 to useable condition now sold and having previously owned 2 Lightweights directly ex MOD thought restoring this one which I rescued from being converted to V8 should not be a problem. The owner told me it was not charging but it has two new batteries fully charged to make it driveable even has MOT until September 8. The plan is to change to galv. chassis but the 24v system is an issue I had not counted on or understand. Is it possible that running it without charging is the same as not being connected to the batteries which will ruin the generator? I will get a voltmeter to check if there is any charge but feel there is not and let you know.

Thanks for pointing this out which shows that I do not understand the principles. In terms of Why I think the panel is duff there is no output even for the ignition light coming from the yellow wire off the panel to a bullet connector in the Shunt Box. Also it looks like someone has had the cover off and I guess I would just like to bypass it and am still wondering if a Defender FFR radio battery generator which is in working order and has its own regulator built in would be fine on my Lightweight or if there is some reason why it should not be tried?

It's very good to get so many suggestions to my question thanks all. The trouble shooting suggestion is best for originality but I don't have the knowledge to test the alternator as there are dire warnings of running the engine with no connection to the battery so if I remove the plug at the engine end to apply a multimeter it would not be good? I feel sure the Generator MK4 transistorised is the root of the problem but its inaccessible under the floor to check if relay is stuck or what ever. Changing the Alternator to 12 volt to charge the 24volt system per the wiring diagram sent to me is something I did not know was a possibility -- very interesting. Finally my Monster FV1068364 alternator reconditioned for MOD and intended to charge the 24volt Batteries on a Defender FFR is sitting looking at me on the garage floor - this would fit instead of my FV760740 on the bracket and use the same pulley. The connections Batt 1 and Batt 2 are supposed to be connected to the positive terminals of each 12v battery according to one diagram I have seen. But I have never seen or heard of this being done?? Thanks again for your ideas.

Thanks for your reply. I agree with you that are second hand MK 4 generator panels out there but the transistorised voltage regulator is very specialised in terms of checking if it works and I don't need to split the charge between the vehicle batteries and the radio batteries. So from your experience it seems that any regulated output 24v generator should work OK.

My LLR charging system is u/s and as the cost of a Mk4 Generator panel at !000 pounds is too much for me I have been looking at alternatives. Being under the floor also increases the aggravation of working on or changing the panel. I do have a reconditioned Defender 24v 90 amp Generator FV1068364 and wonder if this could be used to directly charge my two 12volt batteries instead of the original No 10 Mk3 FV760740 to Mk 4 Generator Panel set-up? Alternatively some Toyota Land Cruisers have 24v 30 amp regulated output alternators which could be fitted to the Series 3 12volt bracket. Or change everything to 12volt. All comments gratefully received.

Hi Everyone Being a semi retired Golf Widow another tatty Land Rover to improve seemed a good plan so just bought Lightweight previously 43-KC-80 which is closely related to Monty Don's vehicle being a 1984 series 3. Over 50 years and 13 Land Rovers of which 2 were LL from MVS in Fradley I'm now faced with 24v and underfloor MK4 Generator Panel which was quite unexpected and does not work. So seeking advice! Cheers CharlieC