Gordon_M

Well unlike virtually every other WW2 vehicle I've ever owned the wiper motor system on a Weasel is very good and very useful, so I'd encourage you to find the odds and ends.

Memory tells me there is only the motor, with its little plug and socket, link arm, through-the-panel pivot, and arm and blade. I think the only serious part you are missing is the through-the-panel pivot which has to be reasonably easy to get ( as opposed to the motors, for example )

I only have one, which I need, but I could photograph it for you if you want?

The only thing that suggests itself here is a Doctor, or some sort of medical orderly, checking for strength of grip or freedom from tremors or the like.

Thanks anyway, I remember the jeep ones were different, but not how. I did manage to find the little pivot section that takes the wiper action through under the screen - just need to remember where I put the motor and primer now. If you see any motors for sale I'd appreciate the tipoff.

The steel tank is a lot less grief. I'm not sure if the car carburettor rebuild kit will do - I know that carb number is specific to the Weasel but suspect it is a basic car carb adapted Of course the M29C.org people will know.

Ooops - I see you were talking about the MANUAL wiper - a jeep one may well do for that.

You'd probably want to fit the motors - if you have the dash wiring and plug-in bits - so long since I dealt with mine I can't remember the wiring layout exactly.

At one time there were dozens in Scotland, now all gone. Last one I saw was a hulk up at Andrew Allan's place near Garve but that was years back. At least now you can get new track bands - the lack of which was a big factor in me moving to a Sno-Cat.

It's probably the carb, but you don't have one of those self-sealing rubber fuel tanks do you ? Surely modern petrol would just melt those in short order.

I'm in the market for one Weasel wiper motor and a hand primer pump if you have any spares. I need them for my T-36.

I was sure I had a spare motor and primer, kept from when I sold my four and bought a sensible Sno-Cat ( sensible = track sections you can weld up, or even fabricate ) but I can't find them now that I need them.

Tape ? When was the last time you think this may have been run ? It does sound a bit like Scrapyard Challenge

tape - shakes head again.:shocked:

Aha, the " tea & biscuits and a half day out of the office " technique that I've used when I wanted chassis numbers checked against other details - I'm familiar with that.

As I said I expected that you would have a handle of the legal niceties, just wasn't clear on what they were. I'm sure there will be piles of other regulations to be complied with when buying and selling this stuff, moving it across borders, and the like. You night want to throw in the odd comment on the technicalities as I'm sure we'd be interested. thanks.

Meanwhile, back at the the Pheasant.

I thought you'd have a grip of the technicalities.

Once you have it all sorted do you need to get it inspected, stamped, certified, or whatever?

You are welding up and generally repairing all those de-mil points Rob, what are the legal implications there?

I suppose if you stuck a bar in that cut barrel hole, welded it in, and dressed it off, you are not rendering it any more usable, but just wondered if there are things you can, and cannot, do - so to speak?

Gordon

Looks lovely, winch, early grille type.

Radiator probably no big deal in that we should all expect to recore or replace 70 year old radiators at least once then we won't have to worry about them again. At least the Chev radiator is conventional construction and not film or honeycomb core.

No

Clarks Equipment made the CA-1 Airborne Dozer, and Cletrac ( Cleveland Tractor Co. ) made the Cletrac MG-1 and MG-2 Aircraft Tug.

The pictured item looks like a small crawler tractor from the RANSOMS ( RANSOMES ? )company

I'll just mention that I hope all those priceless bits get put inside - I'm remembering the anvil episode ..

Good work, as usual.

Speedi or Redi sleeves from Chicago Rawhide ( who developed them I think ) or SKF are just the ticket for sleeving worn universal drive shaft yokes into or out of gearboxes and transfer cases.

You have to watch the fitted width, though, to make sure the new sleeve section lands exactly where it is needed, and if I have a yoke with really severe wear I fill the wear groove with body filler ( no - really - ordinary filler ) and then sand it flat to give the sleeve some support as they are only thousandth's of a inch thick.

If you need to use them, download a catalogue for any manufacturer and just get the reference number you need, as they are treated like bearings in that a particular size all have the same reference number, just the manufacturer's prefix is different to denote manufacturer and material.

Once you have determined the number, just search E-Pay, and if necessary set up a standing search till you get the ones you want. Single sleeves can be quite expensive, retail - a typical Dodge yoke sleeve can retail at up to about £50 - or you can get five or six for the same price off E-Pay if you watch for them and grab them when available.

Rivet counters ? sheesh, I'll be sure to mention that one to the lads....

There was a very similar Mack, visually identical, right down to the colour, at Braidwood, just south of Carluke, south-east of Glasgow, but that yard was turned into a housing estate years ago. I thought when I saw it that is was based on an NO2 but couldn't be sure as I was concentrating on salvaging GPA bits at the time.

On the same theme I did see a Quick Way crane on a long wheelbase Diamond T chassis south of Oslo, but that would have been fifteen years back too. I remember the owner telling me it was built specifically for the Canadian army though.

She sounds fine, but happier at 45 than 50 I think. She did look remarkably solid too, but will be much tidier when you get that paintwork done.

Must be the only vehicle on the Tay Bridge road that Transit didn't cut sharply in front of, then. I wonder why?

I'd suggest you may wish to tweak the thread title to encourage US contributors to consider signing, as I'm sure signatures originating inside the USA will carry more weight if and when the petition is reviewed.

I've taken the liberty of cross-posting this on the WW2 Dodge Forum " Pre-WW2 " section with an eye to getting some more US contributors to consider support.

http://forum.ww2dodge.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9530&p=55063#p55063

Keep us informed please.

Did Phil buy the Antars, but he bought my Ford MH SnGo as well, as SnoGos were used to clear the roads that the Antars used to drag the equipment up the mountains.

I'd be reluctant to put any fresh oil with any detergent properties in an unknown engine. Of course you can tell how clean it is inside if you drain some out, but I've heard a lot of stories of people putting modern detergent oils in old engines and washing free huge quantities of sludge which promptly wreck the engine.

Get her home first, check the oil in the sump, and if you have any doubts about the cleanliness pump the sump for a darned good clean before you go with freash oil, and even then be prepared for a precautionary filter change after a few miles.

Gordon

Am I the only one thinking all those compression figures seem very low?

 

Maybe - I was thinking they were nice and high and relatively consistent :cool2:

Bottom line here is that although most of your engine is fine, you seem to have worn though either the big or little end bearings on cylinder 4.

If you run the engine - it will only inflict more damage. At the minute you MIGHT get away with dropping the sump, pulling number 4 big end, checking the crank journal, and fitting a new pair of shells.

If you run it any more you will damage the crank journal and then your are in a whole world of pain. In your situation I'd drop the sump and check all the big ends before I did anything else.

Don't think you can reply on your oil pressure gauge. The oil flow down the crank is restricted to the point that you only see it on the oil gauge if a main bearing gives way.

I think the statement from the defendant said something like;

" I was cleaning my armoured car and it went off, sir "

:angel:

Bit of a mixed bag there.

The original works is still there and working, but a '60s extension is being turned into a school of some sorts.

Weirs did / do have a large repair facility in Alloa, and large chunks of that have been sold of for housing, but not the Cathcart works.

Buildings have large riveted steel frames, typical of between-the wars construction. The original layout must have been quite sensible but it's been chopped and changed around. No original fitments, but I seem to recall my guide said something about a 25 pounder had come back to the plant not many years ago for refurbishment.

Gordon

I was in the old Weirs building today, checking up on a couple of pumps. Still there in Cathcart, now trading as CLYDE UNION, but the original sheds, buildings, and layouts pretty much the same.

 

That's a really cool & interesting collection of vehicles you have there, do you find much time to work on them?

 

 

Almost none, unfortunately. I'm either working and too busy, or not working and too poor. Postman and neighbours are always getting mysterious e-bay purchases from all over the place with some gauge for the Iron Fireman or tool for the K-38 trailer, but that's about it.

Definitely not buying any more till I get some of the existing stuff finished and sold, but the upside is my petrol budget is about £10 per year just to keep them turned over.

I could even stick a Martian in my garage - after I took out about four Dodges ....

I think the earliest jeeps had H700 keyed locks in them - if you have a key switch on the dash I think you should have matching locks on the rear lockers that the same key fits, and the spare wheel lock, of course.

Have a look for evidence of water in the sump. Nearly every Ford block I've seen or worked on has had a crack down the distributor tube which weeps coolant, There is an easy fix for that - a short length of 1/2" copper tube rolled to increase the diameter just a hair, covered with gasket goo, and shoved down the distributor hole. Leak sealed, distributor works unaffected - just need to be careful you use tube that doesn't protrude far enough into the block to hit the cam. Of course you may find that tube has already been fitted as it seems to be a really common thing.

Gordon

Oh, where's Anchor supplies then? I need some big canvas to make a cover for the back of one of my trucks.

My current vehicle list is here;

http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/gordons_vehicle_home.htm

I seem to have specialised in vehicles that do more than one thing - originally amphibians but now a combination of snow vehicle stuff and rail stuff. Although I live in Falkirk I'm in Aberdeen virtually all week and just get to play with the toys at the weekend.

Last time I was at Sandy Hunters I remember the NO Mack which was a converted Prime Mover, but the Martian I'm sure was the pukka wrecker version. There's still one NO at Chisholms at Ballachulish which was mint when he got it till he took off the back body, stuck on a hard cab, and left it outside for twenty years. Ross of Girvan had another mint NO at that time - long since sold on.

I've no idea where his stuff went, but sure it wasn't wasted.

Cor, you didn't half go a long way to pick her up though.

Last Martian I saw in Scotland I'm sure was at Sandy Hunters, at Gordon, in the Borders. Wonder if Ross of Girvan would have any bits left?

Makes my 6 cylinder Dodges up here in central region seem quite sensible. :cheesy: