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Posts posted by AndyB
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yep, that is the "O" (operators) box, it's purpose is to identify if the problem is the radio or harness. So having only 1 installed would deal with both sets.
What you must appreciate is that a large number of the guccie equipment was not on general issue, so most were done as single set installations. In my era our FFR's were LWB as CP's comprised of 2 x C42, BID 150, and a A43.
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Looking at the picture, I would say you were missing 2 x Top Trays, 1 x "O" box, 2 x J1's and 2 x 4 way No 4's ?
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Saw something similar on the Sultan for connecting a charging engine, rather than running the engine. Especially when set up in a Brigade complex.
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I fitted a new loom last year, spent a week deciphering the wiring diagram, them made my own plan to fit the loom.
If you PM me with your email address, I will dig out what I have
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Dave,
Just tell me when, as I need to empty the back. I was over at Kirby Stephen, first trip of the season.
Andy
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Dave,
If you wish I could pop down with mine to use as a reference ?
Regards
Andy
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The 7x9 is a good comprise, easy to put up and when packed takes up less than 1/3rd of the space a 9x9 does.
Andy
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Hi Martin
A second pair of hands is a must. Below are the instructions taken from the manual:
Oil Sump and Gaskets
The oil sump is a steel pressing attached to the lowerflange of the engine crankcase with cheese-headed screws and plain and springwashers. Removal is straightforward.
There are four sump gaskets, and Fig. 30 shows the general arrangement.When replacing the sump gaskets work carefully to the following detailedinstructions to ensure an oil-tight joint:-
1. Clean offall traces of the old gaskets.
2. Stick theflange gaskets to the crankcase with grease, taking particular care to fit thelip at each end of the gaskets into the bearing cap grooves to ensure anoil-tight seal
3. Fit thebearing cap corks into the grooves, so that the ends of the seals bear on thelips of the flange gaskets.
To facilitate assembly of the sump after the gaskets are inposition, make up two guide studs and screw them into the crankcase flanges,one on each side. These guide studs will position the sump accurately andprevent displacement of the seals.
Then, with the sump in position, insert two of the screws tohold it steady.
For the remaining screws, use a screwdriver-with a piece oftubing pushed on to the blade. This device acts as a "steady" for thehead of the screw.
When all the screws are inserted, tighten them gradually andevenly, going round the sump at least three times' Take care not toover-tighten them.
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Here is a link to an article about changing the seals on a Luvax shock absorber
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/luvax.htm
Andy
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Nicky
She looks the part, fantastic !!!!!!
Regards
Andy
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Hi Tom
I notice from your picture that the Rebuild plate has been taken off. Do you have this and if so does it show a Post-War registration number?
Andy
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Had a look at the Contract Card
25/9/43, V/5275
Contractor: Vauxhall (although most say Bedford) Quantity: 1005
ea. Contract Price: £312 1/4d Costed Price: £346 12/2d Free Issue: £34 10/10d
Remarks: Adopted for w'less "M.W.R."
It would appear that if the price is £310+ it is possibly an MWR whilst MWD's are around the £270 mark
As for matching up chassis numbers with "Z" numbers, I have found this to be nearly impossible unless you can find a serial number within less than 100 of the one you are looking for. A ball park of figure of +/- 2000 may is more achievable on the larger contracts.
Andy
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Hi Chris
it may be worth giving John Simpson at the Tilly Register a call as they have a CD available which contains photos which may help you. Unfortunately I don't think mine are correct
Regards
Andy
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I think you will find no reference to First Aid Kits as they were not allocated to B vehicles as part of their CES.
In the 70,s/80's we only carried one in BAOR along with a warning triangle and flashing light to comply with German law, in the UK we only had the light.
Andy
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For the jeep I use SAE 90 and the MW is SAE 140
Andy
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Very nice
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AndyB
shame not to try
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The Autosparks part number is BF23C, and you can have the cables for indicators and H/L for the headlights added, takes about 6 weeks.
Andy
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Hi Ron
Any chance that your friend could send me some photos and dimensions of the rear shock absorber arms and how they are attached to the springs and the seat runners as well.
Best regards
Andy
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Andy Carters website, contains an article on headlights that may be useful? http://www.m201.com/access/cibie.htm
Regards
Andy
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Hi
What would be is the tyre pressure for a Bedford MWD, I have looked in the manual but cannot find any mention of the pressures?
Andy
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I would like to also thank all those involved in running the event, a great weekend
AndyB
Canvas tilts etc for a Tilly
in British Vehicles
Posted
Chris,
Comptons2000 (undercover covers) in Birmingham may be worth considering. I have seen their work on a Morris Minor pickup and are using them for my Bedford and will do again when it comes time to have mine made. I have found that some of the other canvas makers appear to shy away when you mention British vehicles.
Andy