datadawg
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Posts posted by datadawg
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I bought a house that turned out to have a Daimler fox tucked at the bottom of the garden
I would start digging around the back yard, if the seller abandoned the Fox, chances are there's buried gold everywhere:cool2:. If you are thinking about getting back in the hobby, this might be a message from the man upstairs to get started! Please, whatever you do, don't just scrap it at the recycling yard. At least let this community preserve it by having someone here take it. I am sure you will be able to get scrap + from any collector. The satisfaction of knowing it's going to get a new life is also going to be worth something.
Please do post some photos.
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No. AFAIK the only FV600 series vehicle that supported a Boiling Vessel was the Saladin. This was due to the fact that it had a substantially bigger generator than the rest (70A?), that was only just able to supply the BV. It was an unusual round one too and not the much more common square unit issued with later vehicles. The plug was under the turret basket somewhere.
Cheers,
Terry
Thanks Terry, in my infinite wisdom, I bid on a bunch of BV's selling at sealed bid auction, so now I have to hope that my bid is not going to win!!
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would be an excellent venue to sell hot teas and sticky buns from . . . fire up the boiling vessel and your in business.
R
Does the Saracen have boiling vessel outlet?
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Some more of the mucky bits...
I just noticed the toilet/seat combo, very handy I suppose when you gotta go, but they're shooting at ya... or maybe you gotta go because they're shooting at ya.
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A couple that spring to mind are,
A straight bar is for emergency towing only. Not to be used for pushing or recovery of unbraked loads. As Grasshopper says Hollybone A-frame'a are worth their weight in gold.
:shake:
Why is straight bar unsuitable for towing? And why is A frame better -- it spreads forces across two points or is there another reason?
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Chris,
Looking at the pix of it on your driveway, I have to ask: are those pavers? If so, doesn't the weight of the machine or track action damage the surface? I have pavers on my driveway, they are just dry laid on gravel and sand, but interlock like yours. So I am wondering whether driving a Fox on them would be too risky.
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Step 1: drink few shots ov vodka vid de comrads.
Step 2: go for draiv in tank
Step 3: see trailer, think of vooman next door name Nadya.
Step 4: mount trailer like mount Nadya, poke first, think last.
Step 5: fall off trailer, hit head, must have more vodka for headache.
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Well, based on the amount of water that came out of the final drive I decided to remove the other one as well which drained rusty so obviously that was the thing to do.
They will both be replaced with good spares from the Sturgeon that was in good working order back in 2013.
Probably a dumb question, but why is there so much water in the engine bay? Things look very rusty. Is that just from sitting outside? I would have thought the compartment would be rain proof.
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This promises to be an interesting thread! And a huge amount of work!! I enjoyed reading your thread on steel soldiers site describing the journey from UK to California. Keep the pix coming.
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I'm looking to build a double garage at the end of my garden as I have rear access, and according to the council I can built the garage up to a max of 4 metres high (and without planning permission) but I can't find any prefabs that fit the bill, as I want to have a high ceiling and doors on it to match so that I can cater to a range of MVs of medium size that would not fit is a standard garage. Has anyone had a garage built to their own design to cater for their MV.
The problem I have with a double garage is that the opening needs a sturdy RSJ to avoid having a central and vertical support in the opening which defeats the usefulness of a double garage. Also the design of the doors needs to be easy to open but not that easy for a thief, so what have you got?
I'd be interested in photos of you various designs, or details of a firm that can do the job.
I assume you have local outfits that produce and install pole barn type buildings. Here is a link to a US vendor, but metal building vendors should be around everywhere. The website below lets you get pricing based on size, configuration, etc., so you can have an idea at least...
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Gents, I am currently having my Saracen overhauled by a shop and after re-reading this thread, I had asked the shop to add electronic ignition. I think there are kits to do this. Does anyone have experience with any specific kit for the B80 and where to source them? Also, is the low pressure fuel pump suggested in this thread a worthwhile addition? Any recommendations on model to get? How costly is the pump, and does it really enhance operating reliability? Mine is a MK6 and I live 100 miles from NY, so it's not a "hot" climate... though it can hit 40 C on summer days.
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Some of these links appear dead. Does anyone have info or pix on what mount and machine gun would be used in the turret of a Saracen? I believe the one I bough is a MK6 version, I thought it takes a 30 cal. Browning, but I have been told by someone working on it that it is a GPMG. I would like to purchase a dummy gun, want to make sure I don't get the wrong piece. What makes it more difficult is I haven't actually seen the Saracen with my own eyes, and I'm an ocean away from its current whereabouts, so logistics of "making sure" are not easy.
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Every time my OT travels it hangs over the side of the trailer. Usually the road wheels are "just" on the edge of the trailer.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Here is a military trailer that will fit 10 foot wide MV. My guess it was made for tank hauling. Cost Uncle Sam $229K, sold for $36K... http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/549273?kwtag=p13n-V&h=
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Just buy a HET, you know you want one
They are now being routinely sold on GL and other auctions in USA. I have to imagine the sale price is less than 10 cents on the dollar of what Uncle Sam paid. But you still need a step deck or lowboy trailer, correct? Here's a current auction...
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in reply to datadawg, the majority of plant and vehicles moved on the roads today are done so by lowloaders, its the safest way full stop, if your worried about reversing a trailer then fit a jaw to the front of your vehicle, it is then made a lot simpler, if you have to buy and store a trailer it makes it more inconvenient for you but a hell of a lot safer, you should also note from reading this thread, and please do so from the start or you will incur the wrath of paulnob1 that his views are in a distinct minority, finally a plant trailer or lowboy as you call them over there have a multitude of other uses so you might get more out of it than you think.
Thanks, I did read every post with forensic attention. I understand the physics behind most people's concerns about the DROPs, and that lower center of gravity is safer on turns. But I still thought DROPS would be safer in stopping, since you have a rigid platform that won't jack knife. I realize there are myriad of other factors (securing load, axle weight, loading/unloading), so maybe I should just drive my vehicles to where ever I plan to go
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As a daily low loader driver, might I suggest a toilet roll is kept in the cab for these loads.:-D
I think experience in the trenches counts for a lot. If someone hauling loads for a living is discouraging me, I have to listen. I am not as skilled as the guy in the video below:
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Can anyone help me please? I am buying a Leyland DAF drops and I'm after a rack to carry my 432. Now I've been told there are two types of rack a light weight for carrying MLRS missiles and the heavy weight one for carrying containers.
Now will the light weight one be ok to lift and take the weight of my 432 which is about 14 tonnes . Col
I was going to suggest the same thread posted above. Note that the guy ferrying his 432 welded up extensions to make his rack wider to accommodate the track width. I have no idea if those extensions are suitably rated for the load, but it seemed like a substantial amount of work. Maybe worth making an effort to talk to him and even look at his setup, if you are local.
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Is the polarizing issue in this thread that DROPs may be unsafe with 432's due to the weight and height of the load carried or that carrying any armored vehicles (say lighter ones) using DROPS is still not a good idea? I am pondering whether DROPs would be a nice solution to move Saracen or Fox, which I just bought and working to import to US. I own a 5 ton (m923a2), but hauling either Saracen or Fox would require a trailer, which means yet another piece of equipment to store, register, maintain, etc. For me, driving a combination would be much more difficult, especially backing up and parking, vs. a rigid body DROPs platform. Especially the guys that are anti DROPs, what are your opinions whether Saracen or Fox is a viable use? Fox is lighter, but it does have a sizeable turret, which makes it top heavy!
I realize that I could simply drive Fox and Saracen, but I want to have options if I go longer than 50 miles and seems like hauling longer distance would be easier than driving armor.
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I live less than 200 miles away from that place and have never been...........
Matt
Same here!!
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Did my form-6 for a couple of CVR(T) by myself and it was no problem at all, not even that slow at 6-weeks turnaround.
You don't need much information but it helps to have a seller and shipper lined up already. I used Mike at inter-market, not the cheapest quote I got, but he has a LOT of experience which gave me peace of mind I felt worth the money.
The vehicles I looked at in the US were a LOT more money than the equivalent vehicle in the UK so I was well paid to do the import myself... at least I think I was as the container hasn't arrived yet and gone through customs, etc.
My advice is to buy two, no really, since the shipping on a 40' container isn't much more then a 20'. You can go RORO if you get a runner and since you are near a port but if you go container you can ship a bunch of spare parts at the same time. Or you can split a container, PM me if you want to go that route since you are on the wrong coast for me but it would still be cost-effective and I want a ferret to go with my CVR(T). Plus I know of a chap with a pair for cheap. :-)
Otherwise have a look at: http://www.tanks-alot.co.uk/sales.htm
Buy now while the exchange rate is in your favour!
I managed to purchase a Saracen and a Fox, they are being overhauled in UK now. I also filed Form 6's (one for each vehicle) and to my utter shock, I did not screw anything up, so they did get approved in less than a month. I will PM you, since I saw on another thread you are ahead of the game and waiting to get your CVRT thru customs.
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As with my comment above, its just the start of a long journey in taking the engine out to do the fluid flywheel seal, that is the sole reason for this activity and has been planned over the last couple of years.
Fast forward to 2015 and wondering how this turned out! Did you ever pull the engine? Is all the work done?
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I'm wondering how to fit the long torsion bar rubber sleeve (the one between the wheel station and the torsion bar adjuster). It obviously needs to be stretched over the serrated end but it is quite a stretch and I'm not sure if there is an easy way so I'm hoping someone has done lots of these and can give me a few pointers. In particular, should I heat/boil it first; or plaster vaseline on the shaft and pull it on with multi grips; or somehow pre stretch it; or..?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]103195[/ATTACH]
(Interestingly, I can't see that this sleeve is actually doing much, since that section of the torsion bar is isolated from the oily bits, however I'm keen to put it on regardless).
Thanks
James
No idea, but I'm sure Matt, Richard F. and Terry are going to help you. They are very knowledgeable with all things Saracen...
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Replying to my emails might help you
Robin
Robin, I apologize, I had it on my list to call you, but I got jammed before leaving on family vacation to Mexico and never did. I will call you when we are back in US.
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I am going to learn to roll with the punches. It's still many months before I actually see it, but I will have the shop do as much as possible mechanically. They started taking stuff apart this week, but I am on vacation and only have limited contact. I just heard they will have to fabricate the front shroud due to rust on existing piece, but that is all I know for now.
Greeting from the Czech Republic
in Introductions & Welcomes
Posted
Welcome aboard. I have been dying to get some stuff from Czech republic, like a Saurer 4K that was offered by Mortar Investments, but then logic and practicality start to take small bites. You are lucky to be in Czech, I understand there is a ton of gear still floating around Eastern Europe that has been unrestored.