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About TechnicianJack

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  1. Hello, I am interested in acquiring a NCRS communications trailer. If anyone has one for sale, or knows of one for sale, please can you send me a private message. I'm ideally looking for an empty one. Here is a photo of what they look like: http://www.milweb.net/webvert_images/73104/a.jpg Thanks, Jack.
  2. URGENT I've had someone contact me requiring military vehicles for a Royal British Legion event in London. The job is to transport some ex/retired forces members on a short drive between 199 Borough High Street and Downing Street / St John’s Smiths Square, so the vehicles must be roadworthy and able to carry passengers. The examples of the vehicles he is looking for are Land Rovers, Austin K9, Austin Utility, Bedford OY GS, Land Rover 101 or similar. Whatever the vehicle, it must be manufactured in the UK, and as original/unmodified as possible. He is looking for a selection of vehicles through the ages, so anything WWII to present is suitable. The event is on the 22nd October, starts at 6:30AM and finishes at 11:30AM Drivers will be paid for this job, including fuel and LEZ charge fee expenses. If you can help with an appropriate vehicle, please reply to this post and I will provide the contact details.
  3. Thanks for your help Iain. I've been in contact with the seller, and he's agreed to exchange the radio for me.
  4. Hi Iain, Thanks for your reply. I have borrowed a power supply from a friend which will output 28V at up to 10 amps and tested the radio on that. The voltage check setting puts the needle on the dial into the green, so that's OK. The radio still whines though. I don't think it's a motor issue as you can hear the internal tuners spinning as you click through 10 MHz at a time from 30 - 70MHZ. The radio locks on frequency OK and and the dial stops flashing. One thing I've noticed is that the frequency won't lock if you tune above 75MHz. The motors slow to a stop, but the dial keeps flashing. While there's no usable Amateur frequencies in that range, I'm sure it should still tune to 79MHz? I transmitted into a dummy load, and the whine stayed constant without any increases in volume. I only tested on the lowest power setting though. Jack.
  5. Hello, I have recently purchased a Clansman 353 which arrived last Saturday. It appears to power up OK, however there is a constant loud whine from the back of the radio which occurs constantly from when the radio is switched on, to when it's switched off. At first I thought it may be the radio warming up, but after leaving it for a few minutes it remains unchanged. It is not fan noise as when I manually switch the fans on, they spool up, and then slow down and stop when switched off. The noise is not audio noise, as I disconnected the handset and it didn't stop. The only thing I think may be an issue is the power supply I'm using for it. It's an old modified supply which outputs about 22/23V instead of a full 28V. (This was fine powering a DCCU to charge the manpack batteries) I'm not sure that the lower voltage would cause it to make that noise though. I also purchased a Clansman 321 which powered up with no strange noises on this supply. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jack.
  6. Hello, I am currently fitting TUAAM units to my Land Rover, but I'm not sure exactly how it goes together. I currently have two. One was given to me pre-assembled, but the other I bought as a kit. The kit is a 351/2 and 320 fitting kit, including the TUAAM, DCCU plate and clip in frame. I have lots of bags of bolts, nuts and washers, but no instructions as to where all the parts go. The only thing I can try is to take the other TUAAM apart to see how it's assembled, but that doesn't show where the rest of the bolts go! Does anyone have instructions for this? Thanks, Jack.
  7. Thanks for your replies. That NCRS trailer looks too heavy for me to comfortably tow with the Land Rover, and I don't have a trailer licence currently anyway. I liked the look of the sankey one, due to the communications cabin being demountable, but it's unfortunate that its electrics have been removed. Jack.
  8. Thanks for your replies. I am currently investigating the parts I need. Jack.
  9. Hello, I have been around on this forum for a while, but I only recently purchased a Land Rover. It's a Defender Tithonus FFR Soft Top. I'm planning to fit it with Clansman radio equipment. So far I have done some basic mechanical work to it, including a service and timing belt. The next task is to start to cleaning it, as the inside seems to have had some sort of preservative wax sprayed over every surface, presumably to stop it rusting in the stock yard. It's proving quite difficult to remove, and it's making everything unpleasantly sticky! I am looking forward to next year when the good weather comes back, as it would be great to attend some shows with it. I'm based in Suffolk. Jack.
  10. Hello, I have recently purchased a Defender Tithonus 110 FFR Soft Top, and I was hoping someone would be able to help with the antennas for it. There seem to be so many on eBay, I'm not sure which ones I need. As far as I am aware, I need a set of these to fit both the TUAAM boxes on the front wings for VHF: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131354221283?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT However, there seem to be various other antennas I have seen. These seem to be extensions for the VHF whips, so I assume you can either use one or two sections along with the other two whip sections from the link above to make a 3 or 4 metre whip? Are these the correct antennas, and will the TUAAM units tune these antennas correctly with the extensions? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261690666264?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT As for the HF whips, I am having a hard time trying to work out what is needed. I would assume the HF whips would need to be longer than the VHF whips, but I don't know which ones I need or how many. Also, the VHF whips seem to have an obvious top section, as the end is sealed off with a plastic cap, presumably to stop rain running down the inside of the whips, and for limited eye protection. I haven't seen any HF whips like that, unless you're meant to use that as the top section of the HF whip? Finally, I am not sure which antenna bases I need for the HF whips. The VHF whips have the rubber section which clamps the antenna, a metal ring with a screw connector that screws to the rubber antenna base and a BNC connector on the bottom, and a round gasket that goes between the ring and the TUAAM box. On the HF side stalks, they seem to omit the metal ring, and have a different gasket, which I believe is this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clansman-radio-aerial-base-gasket-/261616642205?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item3ce991289d As opposed to this for the VHF antennas on the TUAAM boxes: http://www.armyradio.com/arsc/customer/product.php?productid=1425&cat=0&page=1 What is the correct antenna base for the side stalks? The metal ring on the VHF bases allows the coax cable to be connected to the rubber antenna base, but the side stalks seem to omit this part. If so, how does the coax connect straight into the antenna base? Have I been looking at an incorrect setup? Please would someone clarify exactly what parts I need for all the antennas please?! I would like my vehicle to be correct, as I plan on using the radios in the vehicle! Thanks, Jack.
  11. I have just seen a Sankey Communications Trailer on eBay, and I was wondering whether anyone had any information about it? I haven't seen one before. What equipment would it have carried? The seller says the electrics have been stripped out of it. Here is the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Military-Sankey-Wide-Track-Trailer-with-Communications-cabin-/201227884039?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
  12. Thanks for the replies. I will arrange a date to go and view the vehicles, and I will see what fixtures and fittings etc that the vehicles have. In terms of condensation, it will not really be an issue as I will likely purchase a RadHaz liner kit to put in the vehicle. Also, I am fine with repairing the vehicle myself and maintenance costs, as my dad is a mechanic and I have access to tools and other equipment at home. Jack.
  13. Hello, I am considering purchasing a Land Rover at some point, and I am aware that Withams sells ex military vehicles. Recently I noticed that they are selling a large batch of Tithonus Land Rovers at a reduced price and I like the look of the vehicles. I liked the idea of having a soft top truck, but the reduced price vehicles are all hard top. I would like to know what is involved with changing between hard and soft top or vice versa, and which configuration may be easier to start with? My thinking was that it would be easier to start with a soft top truck and swap to a hard top when necessary, as the vehicle is already fitted with all of the soft top components including tie downs and lashing points etc. Ideally I would like to keep the vehicle as standard as possible, so no drilling holes and other modifications that could not be put back to original specification easily. Has anyone swapped the two roof types on a Tithonus vehicle before? What parts are needed for each roof type? I know the soft top's windscreen rail for the front of the canvas is different for the PVC canvas. Are there any other parts that are specific to the Tithonus vehicles, or are they the same as standard canvas roof land rover parts? As for the GRP hard top, I know that it has some extra brackets to hold it to the roll cage. Are the door rubber seals different for these, or the same as standard defender seals? Any help and advice would be appreciated. I'm trying to get as much information as possible before purchasing. Thanks, Jack.
  14. Hello, I have just purchased a Pye FM914PM radio, and I was wondering if anyone here has any information about them? I was told that it had been removed from a Snatch Land Rover, and its internals are effectively identical to a FM1000 radio. Does anyone know how to power it up? It only has military style connectors on it, so I assume it is meant to receive power through a vehicle harness or battery box? I have appropriate Clansman audio gear to connect to test it with once it's powered on! My set includes a small box with a red screen and buttons, which I believe is the radio, and a large black rectangular box, which I think is the amplifier. Both are held together with a mounting plate. After some research, it would appear that it is part of the MOULD system, but I can't find any set up instructions. Can anyone help? Thanks, Jack.
  15. That sounds interesting! Does any of the satellite equipment have any use, (such as amateur radio) or does it only work with military satellites that you're not allowed to access? Jack.
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