Grease monkey

Hi Tony, thats what i did the first time before bleeding the system. I will do it again but it is not so easy to have it done due to the fact that the drums are a little bit oval so when you have adjusted the brakeshoe to the correct level it will hit somewhere the drum. anyway i will start over again with the process and give some slack when its hitting. Front is braking verry well, the dodge is diving so i will start on the back and see what its doing. Brdgs

Well i have tried to bleed the system but somewhere air stays in. Does someone have a good procedure to get it out? When i open de airnipples only fluid is comming out no bubbles. But when braking is spongie. But the good news is that if it brakes its better than before.

Hi, i have a canvas back cover from a GMC. Found in a barn at UTAH beach Normandie. Its an original part as we have found more items at that farm. Missing the closing part and a small hole on the bottom of 1 1/2 inch. Canvas is in good condition. Price to be determind as it is an original part in good condition and more and more rare to find.

They only thing i wonder is that if the piston is comming back to the rest postion whitout the rubber seal it might be damaged after i while. Maybe i will cut of a small part of the rubber and install it. Of course it is normal to give a feed back. We all need info to attack the issues comming with these old vehicles.

Hello to all, finaly found time to check the brake system again. I have removed the master brake cyl. checked the wholes, as mention before. When i did the revision there was also a rubber ring delivered to be put at the end, where the push rod is comming true. Since all the openings where free i had the feeling that the piston could not return completely to the rest possition and due to that one of the openings where half blocked. I have taken out that rubber ring re-installed the brake cyl. Adjusted all the clearens on the brake shoes. For now it looks good, still some air in the system but that will be gone when i have more brake fluid. Was running out of it. When i brake now and release the brakes the wheels are turning straight away freely. Hopefully it will be fine now. Thanks to all for helping out with ideas and suggestions. Bram

Hello Pete, thanks for the advice. I just did a testrun and same hasle. Yesterday adjusted the brake clearence as adviced into 3.5 inch. Checked the left front wheel and it turns freely even after braking. After todays testrun i have the feeling that the piston is not returning completely into the rest possition and by this keeping the lines pressurised. What i will do now is adjust all brakes so the wheels will turn freely and see if i can open those vent holes. But give me some time i'm verry bussy at this moment

Thanks for the info, i haven't seen something like this on my system. Only tubes and connections.

Hi Gordon, you're talking about a valve? Where is that located? For me it is an easy and simple system. You have the master plunjer, pushed by the pedal pressing the brake cylinders. Return when no pressure is by the brake shoe spring, until it is stopped by the adjustment bolt and the little spring in the master cyl. I had a problem with purging the back wheels, the fluid came not trough and the front brakes stayed pressurised. After i had changed the flex hose, completely worn out, i could purge the system normaly

Please explane this. My system was working before i changed the cylinder piston rubbers and master cyl. due to leakage. As it is a former french army dodge they have installed an extra reservoir connected to the fill plug hole on the master cyl.. this works fine. I have given the brake pedal around 3,5 inch free play before it hits the master plunger. I have checked the rotation of the wheel, that is free now. Only have little oval drums but thats no problem. I had the feeling that the master brake piston is not moving quickly back, could be a small air left over in the system. No time yet to drive and check what its doing when working

Hello Nick, thanks for your answer. Will give it more play. If this is working than i will re adjust all brake cyl. I made a quick adjustment when i tried for the second time just to get home. Bram

Hello to all, probertly it is allready asked but i will ask again. I have renewed the brake rubbers on all my brake cylinders, cleand and re-don the inside with the grinding tool. The main brake cylinder got an overhaul and i replaced the fauly flex lines. System purged all ok. Before entering the brake fluid i have adjusted all the brakes as per the manual. Now it comes, i drove about 20 km and got verry hot brakes. I have re adjusted the brakes again but after 20 KM the same problem. I suspect the master brake cylinder not comming back, it is strange that all 4 brakes are hot and blocking but not enough to have the dodge not moving at all. The free pedal space is around 1.5 inch. Does some one have an idea what i can do? I will disconnect the brake line from the master to see if there is pressure left in the system.

Hi, no i haven't. Bram

As said 2 pics of the project

Hello to all, beeing back on track with my W/NG. Lots of work. Try to get the clutch alligned so it will not touch the casing/housing. There must be play on the mainshaft which is created by the small tube under the kick ratched. If i make the play it is not touching the housing but between the gearbox main bearing and the clutch bearing is about 2.5 mm play. If i leave this the clutch will be moving a little free but it can thouch the casing and will wear it out. I am thinking of cutting away some material. Other question, does some have the messurements of the prop stand and its top fixation so i can copy it? Tried to get pics on it but it wasn't working. Will post asap.

Hi, can some one tell me what saddle bags these are? Thanks a lot[ATTACH=CONFIG]116673[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116672[/ATTACH]

Well, project is still on the move.

Gents, it has been a while since i've been here. Just a small update regarding the W/NG project. 3 weeks agoo started again with the frame. I had allready made the missing frame tubes. Now i have put everything together. Waiting for the brake lug to come in and than next week it will be welded. So slowly we're getting there. and Tony B maybe you're right. If you working on a project like this and build it nearly from scrap it will be hard to get rid off. An other thing is my daughter is getting her motorcycle driving license and of course she wants to drive it in Normandy.

Hello, i was wondering if someone knows this coat. It looks like an US jeepcoat but that is not the case only one row of buttons. It has a mark in side of the dutch ministery of defense date 1957 but i guess its older. The end of the sleeves are the same as the US jeepcoat. It has a lether strap to close th top of the coat arround the neck and as shown on the foto a strap to keep the bottom part arround the legs. Thanks for the help. I saw on internet the same coat in the USA and that man had the same question. Bram

What an ugly thing. They should give you money to take it.:-D

Well i'm not intending to, have an agreement with my wife. Buying the dodge means one of the motorcycles out. But i'm afraid.... The other ARIEL from '31 i will not sell and my civil WLA will stay aswell. No choise.

Its difficult to sell, so i decided to build it as far as i can. I startedv to bend the rear frame and it succeded. Now i have to heat and loosen the old frame parts and use them again on the new frame. In the mean time i started to paint the parts. I found a collor wich was exactly the same as the original paint found in my frontwheel brake drum.:-) Than there was no paint left. no problem i buy the same at the same store, i tought. All prepaired had a sunny afternoon and than after al was spraid the collor was not the same:cool2: Now i going to see if i can find some at Souchez at the liberating memorial at the end of this month. I will be there with the dodge. In the mean time trying to get my WLA gear box back into good krancking shape. After revision the kickstart keeps slipping true.

The whole project is for sale. I have no time for it.I bought a Dodge WC52 which i can drive straight away so i don't need to sit next to my friends in their jeeps. Bram

Hi Ferret, can you tell me if the back part of the frame is equal to each other. I mean, if you stretch the frametube(the one under the tank) to the end, is the distance of the rear frame part on both sides the same? Or has the LH side more distance to the center frame pipe.

Today i will have my cylinder back. I brought it away together with a new piston. soon at least the engine is ok. Bought also some parts for the gearbox. I'm on the way to start the project. As probertly most of you know, at the moment you want to start there's allways something which needs more and immidiately attention. So the project is again put away.:embarrassed: Bram

I haven't start with it yet. I have also an other frame whitch is less rusty. The only thing missing on this one is the back part. I have to see what is easier to do or repair the rusty one ore use the parts from the rusty one to make a new rear section on the less rusted frame. Maybe the last option is the best.