Chris_Collins
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Posts posted by Chris_Collins
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Well if you have the metal parts this chap can re rubber them. http://www.oldera.com.au/
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a lot of these parts are common to the Morris 10M, it sounds like you have an early contract Tilly? You are going to struggle to source original Tilly parts as there are so few Morris Tillies left, either way good luck in your search and if we can give you any info let us know.
Cheers
Chris Collins
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It should be said that without the help of Andrew Bloxham, Mike Shackleton John Morter and the rest of the tilly register we wouldn't have the measurements and reference photos to replicate what we are missing.
Cheers
Chris
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A bit of additional grinding and a few more pieces welded to the block to prevent some distortion and the final result has produced something close to what we need.Attached Thumbnails
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Utilising the press block I used previously above to press up the radiator bracket I formed up some steel in a curve and notched out a groove in another block. I pre bent a piece of scrap to get the form started.Attached Thumbnails
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The second grill has been completed and now I am finishing off the front guards, which after a couple of repair patches and panel beating are in for sandblasting.
What we don't have and Chris has been unable to source is any wing mirror mounts.
They are just folded sheetmetal but the base curves to follow the guard profile and there is a small indentation that strengthens the fold.Attached Thumbnails -
The wire frame was then inserted inside the mesh and strand by strand each wire folded over, then cut back and curved over the frame with pliers. Another time consuming job but the end result very pleasing.
We just need to get specs on the crank hole insert, make that and pop it in place.Attached Images -
Clamping the mesh over the template it was then trimmed and the wire ends individually folded over the edge at 90 degrees. A very slow process.
The mesh then removed.Attached Images -
Radiator in and hoses connected.
Time to finish the grills.
I have rebuilt two grills but we did not have one decent wire mesh as both had been smashed around the crank handle hole.
Chris sourced some stainless steel woven mesh very close in design to the original galvanised wire. We salvaged the wire frame surround and reshaped it back to where it should be as they were both badly twisted.
That wire is only 2mm thick so impossible to work with.
I needed a frame to work with so I cut a piece of scrap to the shape of the mesh and curved it as needed.Attached Images -
All done. The side tabs are where the bracket was soldered to the bottom radiator tank but as all of these had vibrated apart from the tank I thought there is no point in rejoining them as original. I will glue some rubber inside them instead.Attached Thumbnails
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The bends could not have worked better. Now just to trim down to size and weld in the mounting plates and bolts.Attached Thumbnails
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Nothing to do but have a go at making some new ones.
Another job for my go to tool stock- scrap railway line. Forming the top hat section is simple enough.Attached Thumbnails-
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It must be noted that the vast majority of this work is the skill and ingenuity of John (Jack) Neville, especially lately as non-essential movements are curtailed to stop the spread of Covid-19. when i get the chance i pop down to paint things, Jack is the driving force of this project, without which this project would've gone nowhere.
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All done. The side tabs are where the bracket was soldered to the bottom radiator tank but as all of these had vibrated apart from the tank I thought there is no point in rejoining them as original. I will glue some rubber inside them instead.Attached Thumbnails
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The bends could not have worked better. Now just to trim down to size and weld in the mounting plates and bolts.Attached Thumbnails
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The trickier bit was to get 90 degree bends in the ends of the top hat.
I already had a strong tool made up for previous job so I added some guides into it.Attached Thumbnails -
Nothing to do but have a go at making some new ones.
Another job for my go to tool stock- scrap railway line. Forming the top hat section is simple enough.Attached Thumbnails -
With the engine and drive train fitted and a test run we need the radiator fitted so we can run the engine longer. This is what we have as the best example of a radiator support bracket.Attached Thumbnails
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Doors done and hung. alignment is very accurate although it did require a bit of Porta Power use to move the cab here and there to provide sufficient gap.
Rear tilt bows have also been formed up and fitted. -
Doors Hung.
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More news from the house of Neville. "Time to get back on the Tilly and get it finished and on the road.
First job was to assemble another three piece door. This one needed the top hinge plate reattached as the cage plate(?) had rusted away."Attached Thumbnails -
John has fitted a door as well and fabricated new tilt bows as well but has yet to post the details of those, (although I was sure we did....)
I'm also waiting a new batch of SCC.2 Brown from my local auto colour matcher, its low on his priorities but he's a nice old chap and has a good eye and works just over the road from where I do, so i'll just have to keep prodding him.
hopefully things might start happening again, Shed leave tickets seem hard to come by these days.
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Need to get down to johns. and measure things up so Mr Brown of PegasusDrive can crack on with the canvas-
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and in goes the drivetrain!Attached Thumbnails
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Colour photos of vehicles in SCC2 or Service Brown?
in MV Chatter
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Heres some photos I've found in my travels. Imperial war museum, so period colour photos, not re-coloured BW photos.
https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205188421
https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205123914
Any guesses on the colour of the RAC helmet? I have a para helmet in the same washed out pea green, it doesn't look like KG 3.
Mike Starmers books are well worth getting on the subject of British Camouflage schemes, His target audience is scale modellers but he is pretty thorough, and the colours He uses to make his blends are universally available.
The book Tilly Colours by Mike Shackleton and Mike Starmer gives Tamiya colour mixes for many of the British camouflage colours, which you can potentially use to make a colour swatch.
Cheers
Chris