CaptMax

125LAA. This should help explain it, let me know if you need more information.

CaptMax

http://browningmgs.com/AmmoCans/T-Chial/AmmoBoxes01_WW2.htm

Yes this is for the early MKI Ferrets. They made a few different models of these, but they were all similer.

Here is a #7 MKI mount to compair to your #5 MK2 mount.These are available from BMG Parts in the US.

CaptMax

Look'n good Capt. Max. Your turn around time in this resto is simply amazing. Thanks for sharing.

 

A Question for those subscribed to this thread: The universals used in those drive shafts, are they a standard size or something unique to the ferret?

 

Matt

Thanks for the comment Matt. In answer to your question, the CV joints are the same size as the old Ford Transit vans.

CaptMax

This afternoon I cleaned, checked, painted, and greased my drive shafts.

Here are before and after pics.

CaptMax

Sure are lots of parts to each wheel station. Having the drums blasted and turned and cleaning everything up. New pads being installed along with wheel cylinders. 144 needle bearings per wheel. :eek:

CaptMax

The US M series lights are a Canadian giveaway as well.

Thanks for educating some of us on the differences Robin.

CaptMax

MKI's usually have an open top hull and why are the side bins smooth?

CaptMax

Well I got all the hatches sand blasted, primed and painted but forgot to take pictures. They came out looking like new.

I did take some of the oil filter both before and after, it was supposed to be painted the British sky blue that the motor is so I used that paint as opposed to the silver. I also have several other pieces done like the air tube from the carburetor to the air cleaner and the cross brace over the hull. I'm getting there but am still working on the new brakes which should be done by the end of next week.

CaptMax

Old thread I know.

But mine is #17129

CaptMax

I guess I am lucky in the sense that the wiring conduit and connections seem alright. So the wires have to be disconnected at their end point and pulled back through the conduit?

Walter, I have plenty of pictures on how I removed mine if you need to see them let me know. I will be happy to discuss this with you this fall while at the Knob Creek show. Thanks to Jacki & Diana I have been able to rebuild most all of my wiring harnesses to look like new. Chris who sits at our table with Walter and I has been a big help as well, he has owned several of these ferrets.

CaptMax

This is the thermostat and housing after cleaning and painting it. I replaced the thermostat and the gaskets as well as the hose. I also verified that it was opening at 170 degrees and was full open at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This was accomplished with a pot of heated water and a cooking thermometer.

CaptMax

Thermostat housing before and after. New hose, thermostat, and gaskets.

CaptMax

You did tell me the story and how it was located, but you can always tell it to me again and I will pretend I didn't know.

Wait till you see what I've done to mine since April, you will be shocked!!!

Will look forward to seeing you there this fall Walter.:thumbsup:

CaptMax

That's weird, I thought British armor was double in US of what it costs in UK.

It usually is but this one is a bit on the rough side. After all, he did say he was looking for one to restore.

This one has the early square front side hatches.

CaptMax

Next I am working on the thermostat and hoses. Found some interesting paperwork in the little cylindrical holder attached to the thermostat housing.

CaptMax

I just had some magnets made for my Daimler Ferret. The company did a great job, was very fast, and the prices were more than fair. They offer custom stickers, magnets, and banners as well. I have no affiliation with them but would highly recommend that you check them out. When one was damaged in shipment they sent out a replacement the very next day at no charge to me. It is not often that you get price, quality, and speed all from the same business as well as great customer service. The company's website is:

http://www.stickylife.com/

Here are a couple they did for me. I may order stickers next to see which I like better, but with magnets I can change them easily enough.

CaptMax

Yes Diana you have been a great help in rebuilding my AFV wiring conduit. Your tutorial and links enabled me to rebuild mine as if they were new. I was able to save all my fittings and rebuild new harnesses that would fool even the experts.

I really appreciate your help, without it I would be at a loss as to how to repair them. "Thank-you".

Here are my before and after pictures.

CaptMax

Before and after pictures of the master cylinder, also have new flexible brake pipes ready to install. I will be re-sleeving the wheel cylinders, turning the hubs, and installing new brake fluid and brake pads as well.

CaptMax

Thanks Trevor, yes I had to walk away from it several times as it was just too tedious to stay working on for to long.

I am spraying the ends the correct British Sky Blue tonight, then it will be ready to install when I get to that point.

CaptMax

After seven tedious hours I am almost done with straightening the cooling fins on the oil cooler. This has been quite a task and I can not believe how long this takes! I am going to try cleaning the copper cooling fins with vinegar and salt and will post the results when I am finished. Stay tuned.......

CaptMax

This weekend I am working on the oil filter and oil cooler, as well as the hull cross brace and tube from the carburetor to air cleaner. These should be easy compared to the wiring I am still working on. :rolleyes:

CaptMax

Before and after pics of turn signals and brake lights.

At least I only have two more to complete.

CaptMax

I could use one for the Browning spares and tools. It is the same box used in the Ferret.

CaptMax

If you don't mind importing one I know where there is an early MK1 in the US in that price range.

You can PM me if your interested and I will give you his name and phone number.

CaptMax

Someone should have warned you,

"There's a little bit of head pressure on the drain plug with almost five gallons in there, be careful."

CaptMax

Wire loom pictures, these are a royal pain to build.:trustme:

First I make a western union splice, then solder it and use shrink tube over that to lengthen the wires.

Then after fabricating the loom from conduit and sleeving and reusing the brass ferules and fittings which are soldered, I then press fit a brass sleeve to hold the shielding on. Finish it off with the correct yellow tubing marked as the originals were.

CaptMax