CaptMax

You will need to remove the front and rear cartridge stops on the left side of the Brownings feed way in order for it to fit properly. Hopefully this helps. If you need better pictures let me know and I can post them. Mine is a semiautomatic I built as well. 

WCMatt, Robin Craig had the best solution to this problem that many of us have. I replaced all of mine as well as the bolts which were ground with a tapered point to help aid in alignment and starting the threads. This really is the correct way to deal with this problem.

Dues to extremely cold temperatures (-32° windchill) I have not been working in the shop as much as I would like. I did manage to take a few more pictures and hope to be working out there this weekend when it warms up. 

I now have the transmission reassembled less a couple small items, it still needs the bands adjusted but I just got the tool to do that. Hope to have it all installed back into the hull before long but the fridgid temperatures are not helping that. I will condition update the restoration thread as time permits. 

CaptMax 

Disregard, edited but could not delete. 

9 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

You will find it better to fit the engine in before fitting the tank and I recollect that the trunnions on the transfer box will have to be removed first as well.

Yes Richard, you are correct. I was putting the cart before the horse as they say. Thank you for correcting me on that.

CaptMax

Engine is now mated to the transmission. Next is installing the petrol tank before installing the engine. I still need to adjust the transmission bands and finish bolting on some small parts but I’m making progress. Just wanted to post some updated pictures for all to see. 

Some pictures of the Wilson gearbox being reassembled. Slowly coming together again.

On 1/4/2019 at 7:22 PM, agripper said:

MOD 2 man bivy tent with sewn in fly sheet . This is the type you would find strapped to the back of a ferret or used by drivers of soft skin's if they where unlucky. 

£45 ono plus postage 

Sheffield 

0740 15 19 117

Message sent

On 12/28/2018 at 9:12 PM, CaptMax said:

Yes Robin, I still need one. Do you have any for sale? I could still use an extra brow pad or two as well.

I did locate two but an extra would be nice. I have some parts to trade I know you could use, otherwise I will be listing them on eBay soon. 

I suggest you buy what you can while you can. Better yet buy two. These are getting hard to find as early demills, this one is slated to be made into a functional semiautomatic in the near future. Sorry it is not for sale, I still regret selling my other one. 

2 hours ago, ruxy said:

I will take some photographs tomorrow.   I should have a pair of  12" 1960's era.  I would say - the better one would have   V Steel ,  BAHCO , Sweden  (I think the reverse side has Invented by Bahco year ???  ), just as correct probably the earlier version -  A B  BAHCO ,Stockholm  .

Bahco also produced identical to yours for Britool (with taper handle) , I well remember the first Britool one I purchased a more pocket sized 8" at Liverpool 1970 when I started as a seagoing junior engineer. I chose the chrome rather than phosphated - only to have it nicked by the lascars.  Prior to that I had Bahco 4" , 6"  , 10"  & 12"  -   tended to use only the 6"  & 10" .   Then a local factor in early 1970's started stocking  PROTO  , I considered them better , one was a 4"  "click-stop"  version - useless , been in a M&W toolmakers cabinet almost 50 years unused  !

 ruxy,  that is a wealth of information alone. At least I now know what to look for. We have PROTO here in the states but not many BAHCO. I’ll have to come to the UK and find some boot sales or nick a few from someone. 😆 LOL. Loved your story, it’s the history of these things that I enjoy most. Thanks for sharing it mate. 

11 hours ago, robin craig said:

Capt Max are you still looking for dipsticks?

Yes Robin, I still need one. Do you have any for sale? I could still use an extra brow pad or two as well.

10 minutes ago, ruxy said:

CES  kit  ,  to be pedantic - your Bahco shifter is far too modern by abt. 10 years, you need a earlier version with a parallel handle  LoL

Thanks for that info ruxy, I will keep my eyes open for the correct replacement. It is what came with the majority of the CES tools when I received them. Would you happen to have a picture of the type your speaking of?

CaptMax

I will try and update this thread a bit more frequently than I have been. Hope to be installing the petrol tank and power pack very soon! 

CaptMax 

4 hours ago, Ex-boy said:

Captain Max, you are doing a great job and I'm sure you will give a lot of people the idea that you can do whatever you set your mind to. Keep up the good work and I can hardly wait to see the finished product.

Steve.

Thank you Ex-boy. I really had no options but to do it myself, along with a friends help. Seems there not many (if any) places qualified or familiar with the Wilson transmission here in the states. Luckily there is the internet and with enough research I do believe anything is possible if you put your mind to it. Every now and then it helps to have a person whom looks at things differently (out of the box per say) and ask for their input. I couldn’t have done this restoration without some friends and the internet or it would have never been completed. Even with help it has been a bigger project than I ever imagined. Having people like you encourage me is also an inspiration as well. Thank you!

I found a small bit of galling on the bearing, this is likely what was holding it on so tight. I polished the bearing with a bit of fine emory cloth and it slipped right on with no slop. 

A few more pictures:

I got it with a bit of finesse and persuasion.

Completed my CES kit as well, this took years to assemble and locate everything. 

A few more pictures:

I have not been updating this thread as I intended to but it is still progressing. I’ve gotten a lot done since I last posted. Here are some current pictures. I have bought new tires, installed the dash instruments and wiring, rebuilt the brakes with alll new parts, painted the hull and stowage bins after repairs, and am currently reassembling the transmission after replacing the band material. There is no part on this Ferret that has not been removed, restored, and gone through to verify its condition 

CaptMax

I am rebuilding my Wilson transmission in my Daimler Ferret and have come to a halt. I have new gear bands installed and am reassembling the transmission but would like to remove the first gear drum to make assembly easier. I have pictured the drum I am trying to remove. I have no clue as to why this one stayed in place where the others came off with no issues. Has anyone torn into these as as deeply as I have or am I alone in my quest? Any helpful hints to remove this would be gladly appreciated. Thank you., CaptMax

I have five Ferret tires with run flat inserts for sale in Northern Michigan USA. These are 9.0x16 Dunlop TrakGrips.

They are in usable condition although several do have weather checking on them. There is about 75% of the tread left on them.

I am looking for $900 or a reasonable offer for all five plus shipping. You can contact me at: captmax (at) att (dot) net

CaptMax

On 1/26/2018 at 4:33 AM, winchester said:

10k is over the top for a Ferret in that condition as top whack resale for one in totally restored condition is around 15-17k so that doesn't give you a lot of budget if bought at 10k if you could get near 7k then you have 3 to restore and you have a sound investment as well as a very cool truck which will have been saved from the scrap pile.

I don't think you will find a nicely restored Ferret for any less than 20k, if you do you better buy it. Look at what the one from the Littlefield collection sold for. I have seen others sell for $25k-$35k.