Jelleyboy

Decided to change the colour as I already had 2 different shades of olive drab, one for the 2k spray and another for the brushable enamel, the colour that was supposed to match the 2K didn't so decided to repaint the engine truck in the new shade.

Just ts the first coat of green so far, also need to reapply the canvas paint hopefully some nice weather to come

Ok I'll take some pics of my spare carb showing where it all goes

Perfect thank you Jeremy, I really appreciate the help

hi Luke do you mean the Choke cable ?

Hi Jeremy, yes the choke cable, completely stumped with it

The starter motor manual lever I believe was the issue,also applied vaseline and cleaned the battery terminals up. The stater now powers up and the dizzy's rotor arm spun round, the dash electrics still aren't working so I believe I've screwed up somewhere I'll address this at the weekend, although nice to see the eBay bulb holders I purchased have lit up the oil warning light (sorry as my first restoration, and i've never done vehicle electronics) I was over the moon.

Does anyone have a photo they could show me please how the cable to the carb attaches as I have no fixings just the cable at the moment and can't see in the manuals how this goes on?

Also, is there any way around BPF bulbs? in the sense that I have the wires wired up to the original bulb holder and shell, with a bayonet fitting for the original bulbs, this is twin element and from what I can see so are the BPF bulbs, however they have a ring rather then the bayonet fitments. Do I have to change the entire headlight to get these working?

All help muchly appreciated, thanks

Hi Simon,

 

So you have to turn them on by the unit manually - so 1 at a time to switch on, ok, I will need to post another pic, one of the motors I have has a box on the right hand side instead of 2 screw areas for wiring. The part on the front are you speaking of the travel stopper?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]112814[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]112815[/ATTACH]

 

I've just taken these from google, but that's the box fitted to one of the motors?

 

Luke

Thanks for that Simon,

upon further inspection, the 2nd motor has only one area for a wired connection due to the box, would you know of any ways round this? If the box was removed I believe there aren't 2 connections underneath I may be wrong but both motors have the same part number..?

P.S I did notice that the seat looked.... slightly under dressed for the photo I must say

Will do, will have a look at this at the weekend along with the brakes.

I really do need some new battery cables for this 900amp battery.

The reason for this is that the positive cable has a sleeve of metal around the cable going upto the terminal and the negative is split to buggery and has been electrical taped up.

Pictures as promised sorry for the delay.

 

Simon

Sorry for the delay replying, that's perfect thank you for illustrating this for me. You have 3 wires coming from your motors?

One of my motors is like yours the other has a box on it, need to see what the difference is there regarding wiring.

Did this fizz come as you connected the battery, or when you attempted to use the starter? If it was as you connected, then it sounds like a dead short somewhere. Is the wiring harness connected to the starter live terminal yet?

Hi Richard,

I connected the Positive up then put the negative on and it was ok, then it just started to fizz, without me turning anything on dash switches were off at this point.Yes the live to the starter is connected.

I'll look next weekend with a volt meter,

the ground locations were dremelled and clean for the grounding points earlier , fitted the battery up and got a fizz off the battery and a little smoke off the negative terminal

Can I also ask; I changed the original battery as it was dead from storing in the shed for two years to the same code from Halfords

HSB019

Start up power - 900 amps

AH Value - 100ah

Bench charge 6 amps

I need to replace the battery leads as these were in terribly damaged condition.

Could anyone advise what I need for this battery please?

Thank you I will check the grounding connections and remove paint where needed

Everything is wired up as per the wiring diagram Nick gave me, battery negative is on the engine rear support with the strap.

positive is on the front of the starter motor, nothing at all power wise, brand new battery can anyone give me any ideas please?

Bonnet springs also added, purchased from eBay and the hangers butchered from the Holden classic car versions

Few updates over the weekend, dashboard is now installed and panels, bonnets now on,

side panels and front bar attached

Luke,

This may sound obvious, when drilling the extra holes, remember you are very close to the edge of the glass. Be very careful.

 

Jules

Hi Jules,

Thanks, I made sure I had clearance first on the glass.

I can't remember what goes to the carburettor and stupidly didn't think when i took the truck apart to photograph that area. I need to see where the choke goes to from the dash, and the starter, and anything else that connects to the carb + the exhaust/intake manifolds if anyone would mind illustrating this for me please?

Thanks,

Luke

Hi Simon,

Yes please would love to see your setup.

Regards,

Luke

I have early land rover ones on my Dodge haven't got the bit on the outside that's in the picture and I ran a fused live up to them and earthed them through the frame as you can switch them on and off on the motor itself,this seems to work well.I do have a reduction box fited as the Dodge is 24volt and the wipes are 12 volt.It was fairly easy to do especially once you have drilled the holes.

Simon

Hi Simon,

So you have to turn them on by the unit manually - so 1 at a time to switch on, ok, I will need to post another pic, one of the motors I have has a box on the right hand side instead of 2 screw areas for wiring. The part on the front are you speaking of the travel stopper?

I've just taken these from google, but that's the box fitted to one of the motors?

Luke

Luke, I've not forgotten you. Had problems with my MW today and the time just run away!! I'm sure I've got a wiring diagram (albeit homemade) amongst my paperwork somewhere so will have a look this week mate.

No problem mate, hope you can solve the problems on yours, when ever is convenient to you thank you

Do the wipers have the switch built into the motor? If so, you need an earth for each motor, from casing to windscreen mount, then a power wire from each one down to the fuse box, or an in line fuse to a live terminal. If they don't have the switch, then earth as before then a switch in circuit.

The motors are these - not in as good condition, one has a box on the right hand side where the wires would connect

Hi Luke,

 

Mines converted to electric and i rewired the whole truck a few years back. I cannot recall the wiring diagram but getting my MW out of storage for the weekend this weekend so if you don't get any joy between now and then i can certainly draw the wiring circuit for you. It's a very simple circuit from memory.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

Hi Richard,

If you wouldn't mind please I would really appreciate the assistance - it's looking like Sunday ill get some time in on the Bedford

Hi guys, I've got 2 Lucas electrical land rover wiper motors that I want to replace the suction fed ones, could anyone give me any advice on the setup for this if you've done it in the past please? I just need to know where the connections need to go and if there are any additional parts I require - again this is my first restoration so apologies if it's a silly question.

I know I need to drill 2 additional holes on the windscreen sections to allow the motors through, going to hopefully attach to the unused panel switch on the dash if it works.

Thanks in advance,

Luke

I need to fit the bulb holders to the looms for the dash on the MW, is there a specific bulb holder I should be using? Sorry if this is a silly question

Going to tackle this tomorrow hopefully pending weather conditions, could anyone advise on these cables for me please?

Thanks Luke

Perfect thanks Richard/Rampant.

I can only seem to find a 12v 5w double contact from Holden's is there somewhere these are readily available?

Thanks Luke

Hi Rampant, so if your brake pedal connects to the chassis are you using a hydraulic brake light switch behind somewhere?