Jelleyboy

have you got a 2nd bedford Jeremy?....

Does anyone have a Right step generator box for sale please & a spare wheel carrier?

Does anyone have for sale a brake cylinder for the front Lockheed for a 15cwt bedford mw please? And also could anyone advise the correct brake nipple required size thread etc?

Does anyone have for sale a brake cylinder for the front Lockheed for a 15cwt bedford mw please? And also could anyone advise the correct brake nipple required size thread etc?

Deposit has been put down on a rear MWR canvas to be made so hopefully in a few months that can go on.

Also, I have an extremely helpful friend making me a spare wheel carrier when he has the time

Would be interesting to see yours Simon.

I managed to get the chigwell card and bovy card to show this was originally an MWR. Not so sure of the reme rebuild plate, but the 34 RD 76 corresponds to the original Z number from a contract from May 1941 with a completion in 42.

Hi guys, any ideas of what field force number would go on the front of a ww2 truck for the 50th div

for a 40 engineers plate HQ

I'm not sure if it's similar to mine, i'm currently using Morris Goldenfilm SAE HD30 on my 1942 Bedford MW 28hp

Apologies,

Loads of updates just haven't updated this thread -

Before pics from 2012 when the vehicle was purchased off of Leeenfield on this forum

2017 pics from yesterday - invasion marking free - complete restoration from May 2012 - March 2017

Hi Peter,

That would be great thank you, when convenient if you could let me know if you do and the price via text please?

07889822903 - Luke

Hi Guys,

I'm missing some steering parts for my Bedford MW.

Any ideas where I could get them, or if anyone has spares for sale?

Ive tried Norman Aish, Chris Mortar and Pete Gaine still awaiting replies.

I'm missing parts 74,75,76,77,78,79 and 80.

Thanks,

Luke

Thanks luke yes the panels turned out ok in the end, now I think about it I'm collecting B.E.F. kit to go with the truck and have a number of tin hats that I want to repaint to the original 39/40 colour, any idea what it should be ?

Hi luke

Long time no hear :-D Yes made my own panels in the end as regards to bench seats, are you intending to carry passengers in the back of your truck ? as you may need to be carefull regarding the law and insurance I'm sure someone on here will know more than me on that issue, it might pay to post a question elsewhere on this issue.

As for timber do you just want slatted seats made out of 2x1 pse runners, a bit like airing cupboard shelving. That's probably the best and easiest way to go using European redwood from your local builders merchants,

Hi Jeremy,

Just for use at ww2 events, when the canvas is down if we're using the vehicle, wouldn't be for use to transport passengers on the road. I know the stuff you mean, will look into it thank you - the side panels you've made look great!

Jeremy,

I want to convert the back of my MW to have bench seats made from scratch, ideally going over the wheel arch boxes. I want to pop the spare wheel in the centre of the rear cab behind the driver and have 2 jerry cans on the left. Do you have any reference for bench seats? or could you advise on how I should go about this please?

Could you suggest a good wood to use and what you would recommend as supports for the benches please?

Bl**dy cold down't shed today with snow and sleet showers so the thermals were on !!

 

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Sod the weather I wanted to push on with welding the fittings and mesh in position on the panels.

 

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Finally they are sorted :-D

 

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Drivers side too :-D just a bit more finishing before paint.

 

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Even managed to find time to fit another mudguard.

Thats a nice side panel you have there

A Bedford OY Passengers Door for sale please?

Hi guys,

im finding my tail lights were constantly on when the battery was connected - the cav switch was off completely.

i couldn't get the brake lights on so I've tinkered and now have the brake and tail constantly on.

the isolation rotary switch does nothing to the brake lights and regardless of the brake switch being wired or not they remain on.

does this scream out as an earthing issue?

Any help greatly appreciated I have a few things to try from advice on Facebook but it's driving me mad

The MW Drivers Handbook is none to helpful. It says the points gap should be a sliding fit for the feeler gauge that is incorporated at the end of the small screwdriver in the tool kit.

 

But it does say plug gaps .037" to .040"

I will check the plug gaps again, if I set them at 0.37 would it make sense to increase the gaps to 0.40?

I am also using NGK B6S plugs as this was what was in the the truck when we purchased it - they ran on these before I took the truck apart as we replaced the plugs and points back in 2012, are these adequate or should I be using something different?

Just to confirm, what is the correct gap for the sparks? In the manual I have 2 different clearances - prior to the restore I think they were set to 0.20 but there is also a note for 0.37? I might be off a little with the numbers I haven't got the manual in front of me at the moment.

Ah the condenser in the distributor? I think my friend who was helping me who owns 2 tillys and a k2 ambulance said that was ok,

Rippo is a member on here owns an MW and has a wealth of Knowledge on these, I run the new coil past him before purchasing.

Ok I will retest the spark - does this need to be done per plug?

Yes please Clive, this is our 3rd Rotor arm in this case brand new - it is the correct one.

Is the spark you have seen just the small gap across a sparking plug? Or is it getting on for 10mm from lead to an earth point? A spark across just the plug may not have sufficient voltage when in the engine under compression to produce a spark.

 

Is the new coil of the correct polarity?

 

Have you tested the rotor arm?

 

How new/trustworthy is the capacitor?

The spark was from the plug to the nut it was pressed against for earth.

I checked the coil with Rippo so that should be fine, the capacitor - apologies for the silly question but what is that?

Hi Guys,

Ok so rebuilt lump, new fuel lines and new taps. New carburettor and new plugs + new coil.

Checked and have a spark, new battery installed, fuel lines are now providing fuel to the pump which is now feeding the carb, carb was checked and isn't seized up on the float inside the bowl.

Firing on TDC tappets have been correctly set any ideas? it's driving me mad at the moment

I need to create some looms for the Bedford, I know I need 9/0.30mm however, could someone please advise what amp cables I need for the following please:

ammeter connection to the odometer

indicator switch live to the ignition switch

cables to increase the length of the brake light switch

cables for rear indicator and brake light.

its running off a 12v system, also my Autosparks loom sheath has both mauve and black cables together, from looking at the wiring diagram one of these cables each feeds the brake lights - am I supposed to separate these? Assuming that one goes to the brake light and then an earth from each?

also I'm using rubbolite indicators and the terminal only allows for one cable, are these supposed to be twin with an indicator cable and an earth?

any advice appreciated as always

thanks Luke

Is it a 2-wire connection or is the earth return via the lamp body and chassis ? if it relies on the lamp body connection to the chassis then there may be corrosion causing a high resistance between the earthy side of the bulb and chassis.

 

Iain

ive just cleaned up these locations so they're shiny for the earth connection the other side that's working is the same

For some reason the left lamp is coming on but the rights showing no signs of life, took a cable from the working lamp to the lifeless one and it shows very faintly not enough to light up, the cables are in the junction boxes completely stumped with this one