mikemids

Just out of interest, is everyone still doing this event given the confusion over the paperwork, management and deposits? I'm still keen but deciding as my passengers have cancelled due to the goings on?

Please PM me with you phone number I may have a few.

Pm'd my number Bob.

Can anyone point me in then direction of where to buy an exhaust valve for my Morris C8, one of mine snapped yesterday on my way home from wartime in the vale, luckily only 2 miles from home but still a major setback..

Any leads would be much appreciated..

Yes I think a poll and pairing people up is a great idea as I am sure there are other vehicle owners/drivers looking for a cost effective way of getting to the departure ports. I was surprised this issue hadn't already been raised ( unless I hadn't see it elsewhere).

will pm on you regarding your route.

I am planning to be part of the XXX corps run in Sept, intending to take my Morris C8, but rest of the group have pulled out for financial reasons, I need to get my truck from Worcester to either dover or Harwich, then home at the end of the event, is anyone else doing the same trip with room on a loader or any sensible suggestions, I've looked into beavertail hire but they seem to be few and far between now?

Hi Mike,

I am not sure if you have 18mm plugs or the normal 14mm, but my compression gauge has both thread sizes, so check that out. also, if you have not done a comp check before, make sure the throttle is wide open when doing this test, with all plugs removed.

 

 

Popping in the air filter if due to a warped head and blowing gasket, is one cylinder firing through to its neighbour when it has an open inlet valve.

 

regards, Richard

ok thanks Richard, I have the ex radio truck, so not sure but will take a plug with me when buying tester..

Irritating definitely - there is little worse than a fault whos cause is unclear. The compression test Richard suggests is a damm fine idea - I did a Tilly with a crack between the cylinders (see tales from a big shed), but unlike your comments about a quick start and smooth tickover the Tilly was seriously lumpy at any speed. Frustratingly though the compression tests at cranking speed were all on the money, it was only when it was actually running did the cracks (there were two in a wedge shape) open and cause chaos.

 

If the valve went a while ago then I assume that the engine has been stood idle for the same length of time - and all sorts of simple things can happen. Could I clarify that when you say backfire you are talking about banging out of the exhaust (normally very retarded timing or a stuck exhaust valve or two) rather than popping back through the carb (very weak mixture, over advanced timing, plug leads on wrong (although i doubt it would run smooth at tickover in this condition) or crossover where a spark from one lead jumps over to another (cracked distributor cap or duff and leaking leads))?

 

As an aside I have had tons of trouble from recent purchases of so called new items - particularly spark plugs. I did a 28hp non-running bedford recently that had all new ignition components - and it only ran when I put all the old stuff back on! So if you have spares of anything, including rotor arms, swap them out one at a time and give it a go.

Hi Paul, thanks, yes its been stood for over 2 years, although I have run the engine from time to time once I rebuilt it, guess it was stood idle for about 6 months before it ran again? The banging is actually the "popping " you refer to, comes through the air filter and almost lifts the lid! I do get the occasional bang from the exhaust, but rarely. I am actually now wondering if I have messed the leads up? I did put my old plugs back in as it wouldn't start with the new ones I bought, and I do swap the old and new elecs about to see if there is any improvement but nothing dramatic. I have been reading on here about unleaded fuel causing valves to stick? If it sounded rough on tickover or in 2nd gear etc I could understand but its when driving and in 4th / 5th gear, it even died twice on Saturdays road test. maybe fuel starvation??

Hi Mike,

Did you check the cylinder head face for bowing when you took it off? If not, then I would not mind betting this is due to a warped cylinder head and when tightened back down it will not pull it straight, and the popping through the air filter is due to a compression leak between two cylinders. If you have a compression gauge, check the cylinders and my guess is no's 2 and 3 will be lower than the other two and equal to each other. Seen this many times before and only recently had to deal with one. The answer if bowed is to take the head to a machine shop to have its refaced.

 

regards, Richard

Hi, no I didn't check this, must admit I didn't know it could happen? I don't have a compression gauge but will happily buy one to test this, but I presume I need one with the same thread size as the plugs?

you got plug leads 0n right

As far as I am aware but will double check, you mean correct firing order?

Pretend you didnt do anything and start (again) from scratch. Assume nothing (eg "its a new distributor cap so it can't be that....").

 

Check all the fuel stuff first up to and including valve timing. Make sure they all close too. Things to look for include a lazy pump (the seal around any sediment bowl is a classic failure), blocked jets, water or muck in the carb, leaky joints.

 

Then do the same with the electricals; clearances, terminals, fit, leads, plugs static timing.

 

What were the circumstances of the valve failure? Did it jump or was it pushed? This may give us a clue.

Not sure what caused the valve failure, I was travelling to an event a couple of years ago and one just broke? Ok I will look at everything from scratch again which is mildly irritating as I have double checked everything but I guess I need to do so thoroughly... I had hoped the loss of power and backfiring at higher speeds and under pressure would have been a clear sign of something recognisable... WISHFULL thinking I guess.. Thanks.

After replacing a damaged valve in my Morris C8, i'm having trouble with it running? I am guessing its more to do with the timing than anything else as I obviously had the distributor off etc.. I have gapped the new valve, and checked the others, although it ran like a dream prior to the one breaking.. I marked the distributor up prior to removal , and have refitted it back to the same place, the Morris starts up like a dream, first turn etc, it ticks over nicely, and revs really well, the problem I am finding is when I road test it... as soon as get up the gears into 4th and 5th it starts to pop through the air filter and I just cant get any speed, 20mph max, I have rotated the distributor either way and tried it, but this doesn't seem to make any difference? Turning it more one way increases the idling speed but creates more bangs back through the air filter, turning it the other way reduces the back firing but I have less power when driving? I have had new points, condenser, dist cap etc.. As I say it ran superb before the valve issue so I cant see anything other than timing? Any suggestions would be really appreciated!

Just checked my specs book, for the war time jeep standard model 1941 to 1945 the rear bush should be 0.6380"

Nose bush (flywheel bell housing) 0.4968". The motor shaft should have 0.001" clearance on the bushes.

 

What happens when the bushes ware is the torque on the motor builds as the piston comes up to TDC the motor shaft will try to twist into the line of rotation this in turn makes the dog bite deeper into the ring gear and effectively stalls the motor.

 

There may be other issues but the bushes are the easiest thing to check first as you can measure them without too much effort.

 

Pete

OK thanks guys, excellent advice! Just need to read up where the bushes are and what needs to come off to replace them, bearing in mind the engine is still in place!

Have you checked/lubricated the bush in the bell housing, is it in servicable condition? What sort of condition is the ring gear in?

Ken

Hi, no I haven't checked that at all? But if that was at fault would tapping the starter free it? The ring gear does show signs of wear but I'm not sure how much wear is acceptable? My next plan was to replace this.

However, I do have a question... I have had the starter motor tested, new brushes and a general overhaul, I have bench tested it myself and it spins perfectly, bendix pops in and out great! Everything fine. New leads, battery, I have voltage tested the starter when its refitted, all fine, battery voltage fine...But then when it turns engine over a few times it sticks? if I tap the starter it generally free's itself then turns over again? It seems that after a few cranks if the engine doesn't start then the starter sticks and I just get clicks or a jammed sound where I can see the fly wheel trying to turn? Any idea's anyone?

I found this clip on you tube really helpful...

Just a couple of pics, didnt get to take as many as i'd have liked, hopefully see more on here...

Ah yes, i had similar problems, the trucks in front of me came to a dead stop, i then couldnt select the correct gear, and everytime i tried to pull away i rolled back as was in 5th! Got up there eventually though, did manage to get 3rd gear on the next few climbs and it flew up quite well thankfully.. It didnt boil over as such, i'd topped up with water on the way down on fri near Birdlip hill, and it chucked the excess out on that climb, tends to do so if i overfill, but doesnt actually boil....

All in all, an excellent weekend, pity about the weather but hey... found the locals extremely friendly and welcoming, great fun!

Probably my favourite vehcile of the day.

Lovely. But dont park behind it when it is doing hill starts.

thanks for the compliment.... made my day!

oh and sorry if it was you behind me on " that " hill, i just couldnt get 3rd gear, kept rolling back til i managed to crawl up in 2nd! deaf by the time we reached the top..

hello mate,

The fan belt is V417, thats a Ferrodo number, btr industries make one but I don't know the part no. Points and condenser I would ask John Walker, if he doesn't have them then he most like knows where to get them.

Regards,

John.

ok thanks John...

update...

well not 100% sure what was / is wrong, but finally got over to the morris last night, and tried what was suggested about checking the wiring to the ignition switch, seemed ok? then tested a spark on the points, got a lovely unexpected bolt down my arm! so safe to say fine..checked the plugs, looked ok, thought i'd turn it over just to see what happens.....and yes, it fired up a treat!!

so realistically, i didnt actually ammend anything! it ran fine, i drove it around the farm yard for 30 mins expecting it to die on me, but no, it ran fine? i pulled the switch about, yanked the wiring to see if it would cut out? nothing, all fine....

the only possible explanation, when i test drove it 2 days prior to it dying on me, it poured with rain, and given the windows dont seal properly, rain gets into the cab, wondering if the electrical system was wet?

fingers crossed, taking it out for a 30 mile drive tomorrow night to gain confidence in it as i'm supposed to be taking it to normandy for the 6th!

does anyone know what size the fan belt is and where i can get new points and condesor etc, as planning having it all checked over asap.

thanks for replys so far everyone, havent had chance to get back over to the morris to try out idea's etc as was at evesham show all day, but did call in this morning for one last try before i set off and it actually turned over while i wiggled the ignition switch! now i'm quite sure that shouldnt hapen... so my gut feeling is as was suggested the wires to the ignition switch are loose or faulty?

however, i cant say until i test out various suggestions later this week, so will post results for further idea's, i'm truly greatfull for everyones input!

cheers.

OK Mike, so the master switch was isolating before. I have found some of the plastic type with red keys, can "weld" the contacts together, so without key in, they still make contact. Sounds like this is whats happened.

well thats what i'd thought, so i removed the isolation switch and re-connected the wires, it made no difference at all, still turns over?

when i ran it the other day it did cut out on me at one point, i tried to restart it but the starter motor kept spinning making a whining noise, i then tapped it lightly and it started fine, thats actually the 2nd time its ever done that, i just put it down the a sticky starter motor? but now that it seems to be getting power without anything turned on makes me wonder if its faulty?

Mike,

 

Some vehicles you can use the starter without having the ignition turned on. I suggest you do turn the ignition on and check you have power to the points, ie remove distributor cap and flick the points, if you do not have a meter.

 

It is difficult to make a diagnosis from afar, but you need to check the basics first.

ok thanks Richard. i'll try that monday, although i'm sure that before it didnt turn over with battery isolation switch turned off, as i fitted it on advise, in case kids climbed in and played with switches, i remember being satisfied that there was no life to anything with the key in my pocket? not the case now, i have to disconnect battery.

but, yes i will deffinately try what you suggested.

Are the 2 terminals on the isolator switch touching?

no, i've even removed the wires from the isolation switch and re-connected them therefore by passing it and taking back to how it was originally, dont thinks it the isolation switch as it turns over even without the ignition switch being turned on? it just seems to be by passing all the switches and turning over but not firing regardless, as if power getting to starter motor but not to plugs to get them to ignite?

advise needed!

my morris c8 turns over without the ignition or battery isolation switch even being turned on, but wont fire up?

was running fine the other day, went to check it tonight ready for a run to evesham show tomorrow and its gone wrong?

even when i turn off all electrics and remove battery key, when i press the starter switch it turns over??

any ideas anyone? was suggested bushes in the starter motor gone causing a short?

:argh: