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Lauren Child

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Posts posted by Lauren Child

  1. I also hadnt realised that different needle profiles were available giving different finishes, for example pointed tips for a rougher surface finish and flatter tips to provide a degree of polish. Good site that Trelawny one....

     

    Yep. Remember to test an area as they do leave marks depending on the tip though. The chisel tips seem to work quite well, but you need to keep a stash as they wear blunt.

     

    The folks behind that website were quite helpful when I chatted to them and I've used the 2BPG that was good and reliable. I'd be tempted by the lower vibration ones if you were buying new though.

  2. There's some safety info here on the Trelawny website - http://www.trelawnyspt.com/en/products/low-vibration/

     

    I'm sure you'll have been shown how to use it, but it's worth checking whether it's due to be cleaned/serviced and make sure it's oiled each time it's used. It's also worth checking that the chisel needles aren't going blunt - that seems to make a big difference. I always gave it a good check before use as good practice.

     

    A quick check on the HSE website found this - http://www.hse.gov.uk/vibration/hav/readyreckoner.htm - not that at 12m/s2 you go above the daily limit after about an hour. If you're planning on using it for longer it's probably time for an upgrade (and as 12 is within the action zone, its probably worth getting some advice from the safety folks and looking at options to upgrade anyway).

  3. One of my friends had a wet blasting machine. They also used it (without the grit) to wash the cars, machinery etc.

     

    A visitor used it to wash her car. The white car went very shiny, but then the windows went misty. I'm told the scream could be heard for quite some distance. She had mistaken the grit trigger for a soap dispensor (as on pressure washers).

     

    Remember that wet blasting is done with water. You'll probably get rust, particularly in nooks and crannies. It sounds like there are rust inhibitors but you'd need to look at how effective they are, or sand down before priming.

     

    Personally my vote is for needle gunning, but make sure you follow the vibration safety advice and take plenty of breaks.

  4. Hi, Thanks for the help, regarding the MVT could you give us any help as to how I go about doing this, re finding the age of the vehicle so that I can get an age related plate.

     

    I do have the engine no. and chassis no. and its on a V5 already but with a Q plate it was registered in 1981 but this is clearly not the year of manufacture.

     

    Here you go - http://www.mvt.org.uk/verification.html

     

    Also the RLC Museum records search is here (may be worth a try)

    http://www.army.mod.uk/rlc/history/17719.aspx

  5. EDIT: Sorry - completely missed the bit about doing it as a ceremonial gun. I have no idea on those. I'll keep the below in case you're interested.

     

    ----

     

    It could have been in a range of colour schemes as 1943 appears to have been a bit of a time of flux for paint schemes.

     

    There are some good guides written by a chap called Mike Starmer. They come with paint chips so you can match the colours. It may be worth trying to pick them up before you strip the paint, as if you sand back the layers you may find out some of the history of which theatres your gun served in. The books are for vehicles rather than artillery, but it's probably a fair assumption that the same paint was used for both.

     

    The main book is "British Army Colours & Disruptive Camouflage in the United Kingdom, France & NW Europe 1936-45"

    There are special books for "Desert Colours : Alamein & After 1942-1943" and "Middle East Colours : Sicily and Italy 1943-1945"

     

    Looking in those books, BS 987C became generally available around September 1942, with other instructions following through 1943for the use of SCC2 Brown as a basic colour, and SCC14 Blue-Black as the disruptive pattern. That would have been the European theatre, so it's assuming that the gun left the factory in this paint scheme, and that the same paint scheme was used for guns as vehicles.

     

    I'd imagine someone on here should be able to confirm that - there's probably an MTP46 Pamphlet for artillery pieces or guns which may give you some more info.

  6. I think the new owner is Justin Fletcher, or as kids may know him better as the TV character "Mr Tumble". He came up to me at Fly to the Past at Woodstock and asked me about the Jeep as he wanted to get one. Spent quite a bit of time with him and he was very pleasant.

     

    Tim

     

     

    I reckon he'll have some good fun in it, and it's good to see people getting into the hobby. Sure there are things that may not be right, but half of the fun is sorting them out. It's a shame that the show didn't touch on the hobby really, as that's a big reason for buying an MV (in my opinion anyway).

  7. The Bedford Mechanics Handbook (Sept 1941) states

     

    ...

    OYD - 10.50x16 c.c. - 50lbs/in2 front, 60lbs/in2 rear

    OYD - *32x6 HD (Twin Rear) - 70lbs/in2 front, 88lbs/in2 rear

    ...

    * These figures are for standard Bedford wheels and tyres, supplied instead of W.D. equipment on some OX and OY models.

    [/Quote]

     

    hope that helps :) Would love to see some photo's of your truck!

  8. It reminds me of a program called Neko, where a cat used to chase your mouse pointer around. It detected the edge of windows, so when the cat ran up to the edge it would scratch to try and get in :) I'd imagine it was the inspiration for all of those electronic pets that were a craze a while back.

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