Stormin

I've repaired the re-coil springs on quite a few two stroke engines, chainsaws etc just by cold forming the end of the spring to put a new hook or eye onto them with no problems. As David says if you are going to do it hot you only want to heat the very ends and do it quickly.

I would try cold working a couple of springs first. Two stroke re-coil springs tend to be available quite cheaply so you could have a few goes without spending too much and cheaper than getting a custom made spring.

weather was crap last year ,

It was a lot better than the weather for Windermere airshow was in July last year. That was virtually rained off on the Saturday and not much better on the Sunday.

That's caught me out being much earlier in the year than usual. It's been on in early September the past few years I've been.

The Leland Daf 4 tonner has 3 seats in the front, the backrest on the centre seat folds forward to allow someone to look out of the hatch. It is very thinly padded and I would not like to travel any distance on it. There are no seats in the back of the cab, and there is no provision to fit any.

I must have been getting confused with something else then re the Leyland Daf 4 tonner. I had a feeling some of the Abro re-furbished MJ's at Whithams had the narrow fold down centre seat as well, but could also be wrong there it was nearly four years ago I was looking.

hello

just wondered if anyone had fitted a middle seat or larger pasenger seat in the cab of an mk/mj always seem to have two pasengers now

cheers paul

I had a good try at this a few years ago. I had a look at the passenger seat from a civilian TK cab. There were several available secondhand but there not enough room to fit one in the MJ cab due to the transfer box levers.

I did have some success mounting a centre seat from Land Rover Defender in but struggled with the seat belt mounting. I think when someone is sat there it would also make gear changing very awkward. I ended up selling the truck as I gave up on it being practical to transport three people.

Best bet if you want a similar vehicle to transport more people is the later Leyland Daf 4 tonner that has small seats in the rear, not much more expensive to get hold of than an MJ and great cummins engines plus power steering. Downside is they don't look much different from a run of the mill Roadrunner, at least an MJ/MK looks military.

I phoned up about a spare diff today, The good news is the trucks still there Looking very sad. The bad news is its sank in to the mud in a forest, there is a great big generator on the back and there is no lifting gear at the sight. This one will have to be the back up plan if i can't find something a little easier to get at:undecided:

Would cutting the axle casing either side of the diff, work. Allowing the diff unit to drop to the floor and be dragged from under the truck? Obviously the halfshafts would have to be removed or cut also.

would it be possible to use thicker oil in the filters to stop the turbo having it for breakfast ? say some scammell rear diff oil ? or evan grease ?

Poor engine has to be able to start up as well. Without turbo spinning I think it would struggle to suck much air through a thick oil or grease bath.

It would also create a huge mess if anything went wrong. The time I put my Land Rover upside down it ingested oil from the air bath into the engine so wouldn't start until I removed the plugs, blew out the oil and tried again. Hate to think what it would've been like with grease.

Hmmmm....Turn the crown wheel round eh..... Thats a thought.....See the main problem is to remove the axle in the first place its got to go to work where there is a nice handy mobile crane to lift the back end of the scammell up. I haven't got the room to do the job at home. i don't want to end up with a imobile Scammell stuck at work for months next to the seaside in the salty breeze. I'm going to run it round as is for now and might try to centrafuge the bronze out of the oil every so often. when funds improve i'll take it to work one weekend and bung a diff in it then have a look at salvageing the old one or weigh it in for scrap to recoup some cash back.

If you keep centrifuging out the bronze dust, you could weight most of the diff in bit by bit over the coming years.

Bit like panning for gold which I believe used to be popular occupation up in the Welsh mountains.

Bronze was quite a good scrap price last I looked around 5 grand a tonne.

Problem with turning the crown wheel round as I can see is that you'll still be putting pressure on the bad face when on the over-run, say off the throttle going down hill. You could always solve that slight issue by keeping your foot in all the time and appreciate the exhaust note. :cool2:

He can spend the full week at War and Peace without using the toilets.

Dunno what ever made you think that.... :whistle:...Have you been hacking my mobile phone Darren?....there's gonna be be trouble!

 

It was there on test by HMVF's own tame test to destruction driver....The Squaddie..:-D

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48139[/ATTACH]

Some people say .......

Contaminated fuel.

Fuel drained from cars whose owners have filled up with the wrong fuel by mistake.

A mix of petrol and diesel in varying amounts.

Garages would normally have to pay to dispose of it as a hazardous substance, so if someone offers to take it all away then everyone's as winner!

 

I'd heard that some older diesel engines would run on it, but I didn't realise that an old petrol lump would like it too!

Bet it would smoke like a train until it got warm too, depending on diesel to petrol ratio.

Went along with the family on Saturday and had a good time. What set the show apart from others I've been to, where vehicles tend to be static, was the action in the arena. Seeing and hearing tanks move is a lot more impressive than seeing them sat still.

The commentator in the arena did a fine job had plenty to say and seemed to know his stuff, well done that man.

Well done also the the re-enactors and whoever else set up all the mock buildings, trenches and bunkers in the arena, there must have been a fair amount of work in that.

The only downside was that some vehicles were out of bounds to viewing for large portions of the time due to the events in the arena, even if they weren't taking part at the time. But I don't suppose you can have the vehicle movements and people around at the same time. Not sure they had the 130 advertised vehicles there but I wasn't there on both days so can't be sure.

I'm not sure that without the 654 cast vehicle a vehicle can't be registered. If probably complicates matters somewhat but doesn't make it an impossibility. It puts the onus on the new owner to prove the vehicles age by whatever approved means and then go through the relevant process of MOT, SVA, plating etc if relevant.

Robert,

What about fitting a one way valve in the pick-up line to stop the oil draining back. It'll stop the flow draining back to the axle and fully automatic no chance of forgetting to open the valve. Admittedly it will restrict the flow to the pump though very slightly, there's also the chance that over time debris may prevent it fully sealing but they're fairly cheap.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p14711/ACCUSUMP-OIL-ACCUMULATOR-ONE-WAY-CHECK-VALVE/product_info.html

Are you filtering the oil from the axle before it gets to the pump? An in-line visible filter would also give you a good indication of the amount of bronze dust being produced over time.

We get 40,000miles between oil changes in diesel multiple units using a 5W40 oil. The engines can be running up to 20 hrs per day. We also use Parker (Racor) filtration for the standard filter and also have centrifugal filters fitted. I believe the Russians were big fans of centrifugal oil filters, my old Zil131 had one.

 

We also monitor the oil by way of sampling, and change on condition if required.

I believe the Land Rover TD5 engines also use the centrifugal oil filtering method to great effect and the engines tend to achieve great mileages as a result. I believe the sevice interval on these engines was still in the order of 10-12000 miles though.

The fact that the engines in DMY's run twenty hours per day helps the oil life as a lot of the contamination comes from cold starts condensation and piston blowby contamination. Keeping an engine at operating temperature for as long as possible is desirable as a lot of this contamination can actually be evaporated out of the hot oil.

Most cars and certainly most peoples military vehicles don't operate in anywhere near these ideal conditions.

Whilst I accept that modern sythetic oils are far superior to past products I'm not convinced they're the miracle product that the manufacturers would have us believe. Recent experince with undue wear on my road car despite more than regular oil changes is part of my reasoning for this.

Explorers are just like buses then.

You wait ages then two come along almost at once.

Seems even more unbelievable that last weeks Explorer seller also had a Martian for sale. :wow:

A few very good points there Timbo.

Thinking outside of military vehicles, I can think of quite a few classic cars that have renowned handling problems, would be considered downright dangerous these days and they're still on the road unmodified. I also see a lot of boy racer modified hot hatches with lowered suspension etc that likely handle worse than the original design yet these are still on the road.

Back to the FV 432 surely any modification to the braking and by default steering system would have to be VOSA inspected and approved.

Is the rev counter switchable then according to how many cylinders are firing, 4,6 or 8 according to B40,60 80 etc?

Sounds like possibly the oil feed to one little end has blocked up leading to gudgeon pin seizing in little end. This has caused it to rotate and wear in the piston instead which could well be the source of your noise. Check the oil ways in the crank for blockage and also inside the conrod if any.

GDSF , if you read the small print, do not allow Oxy Acetylene bottle on the rally field. I would check with Beltring, they may have different insurers and different rules.

Does this apply even if the bottles are empty, purged and simply dummies?

To change the subject I think Antar Mike is the only person who has suggested a way forward by applying for a SVA.

This means some brave sole is going to have to apply for an examination (it cant be done on mass the SV stands for Single Vehicle). This will then bring to light anything that has to be done to get a 432 through an examination. Thus if feasable paving the way for other owners.

The possible route referred to is not actually SVA singles vehicle type approval, if you read the link:

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?17128-Special-Types-Vehicle-Problems-A-Possible-Solution

it is Individual Vehicle Special Orders.

From the way I read it it can apply to more than one vehicle.

How to apply

 

Please apply to us in writing at the address shown below with the following initial information.

 

a. Name and address of person / organisation making the application;

b. Details of persons / organisations who will be using the vehicles, if different from (a);

c. The number of vehicles involved;

d. Type of vehicles involved, their make, model, registration and/or chassis (serial) numbers of motor vehicles or trailers. These will be listed on any order issued;

e. Details of the vehicles e.g. number of axles, individual axle weights, and gross vehicle weights (both in kg), plus dimensions (in metres);

f. In the case of vehicle combinations, overall weights (in kg) and dimensions (in metres);

g. Details of the C&U Regulations with which the vehicles do not comply and the reasons why they cannot comply: The Regulations are specified on an Order and it should be made clear that failure to comply with non-specified Regulations, or supplying incorrect data would invalidate an Order.

On receipt of your application

 

Orders are issued for varying periods of time and the discretion of the Department for Transport. Typically, they are issued for a period of up to 5 years.

Please note that the Secretary of State may revoke an Order.

 

Note both Paragraphs d and e refer to vehicles plural, suggesting a IVSO can be for more than one vehicle.

As I said before I think what is needed is for club or organisation to put a block application forward for all FV432 vehicles, even listing all the chassis numbers if neccessary. This may or may not come back with the desired result, albeit with a few sensible over riders to cover the safety aspects, maybe vehicles limited in speed to Xmph, escort vehicles on certain road classes, maximum of X miles journey, whatever it takes to get it past the authorities.

Just needs someone brave enough to test the water and try and go the legal route, what harm can that do?

Try googeling parker absolout bypass oil filters. Filters like this have been used for years on lorrys. some manufactuers say you can just change the filter and leave the oil in for ages as oil never wears out, It only gets dirty

Oil never wears out! Cobblers!

The long chain molecules break down over time and it becomes less effective. No matter how fine the filter it won't remove water from condensation in the oil. It won't remove petrol or diesel that has seeped past the rings on cold starts from the oil. It also won't remove acids that form as a result of the combustion process.

Modern oils are far better at resisting these contaminants and modern engines are far better at reducing them but you're never going to stop it. Synthetic oils are widely advertised as being good for 30 to 50 thousand miles in modern cars, I'd rather someone else tried that than me. 10K miles max between oil changes for me on my modern motors and less on the old stuff.

You cannot beat regular oil changes for preserving an engine. The oil is at it's best the day you re-fill the engine with fresh and simply degrades every day from thereon.

Another study found It found that in daylight black cars were 12% more likely than white to be involved in an accident, followed by grey cars at 11%, silver cars at 10%, and red and blue cars at 7%, with no other colors found to be significantly more or less risky than white.

 

You might just not have to buy that pink paint after all.

So the most common colours of car, Black, Silver and Grey are the most likely to be involved in accidents! Bet someone took a long time to work that statistic out, or have they been corrected as a percentage of cars with those colours?

Will repainting my vehicle a different colour lower the insurance premium?

Yes, 0.003 endgap, but if your rings are not touching anything, you need new rings!

Or a new engine Block. :rotfl:

Antique dealers burry things for a period of time "distressing" to enhance the valuation ..

Damn! You mean I've wasted lots of time and money removing a lot of the distressed look from my Vehicles :cry: