Nudge

i know off topic but now they who we must obey have put landfill tax up on all waste this includes inert ( soil ) and trommel fines too £64 tonne so this could put skip prices up too as much as £350 - £500 will have a knock on affect with builders and every householder !! :shocked:

We don't landfill anything.

We have a quarry where we send our soil and trommel fines,it goes as land reclamation.

All the stuff we can't deal with, we send on to someone who can...... however thats at £77 plus vat per tonne ...and about 200 tonne a month.

Had the same thing happen on my salisbury landrover rear diff.

no point in trying to bodge it, only way is to remove the cover and seal that way.

( i cheated and used some specialist Loctite sealer, it was given to me by some one who uses it on nuclear power stations, never leaked again........... )

Large flat bladed screwdriver.

You can buy purpose made tools for doing it, but if you are careful you can use screwdriver easily.

:shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked: that'd wake you up ......

Reminds me of the time me and my mate were spannering in my garage (bottom of garden) he rang the house on his mobile and requested 2 teas .............

that went down well .......:-D:wow:

Have heard of parking up against something solid and immobile,first gear, loads of revs,pump clutch,that however was with cars/vans, not sure how solid and immobile you'd need for a stolly.

Yay :D:D:D:D:D:D

Glad you got it sorted.

Hi Nudge,

 

fitted the starter first and tested this (obviously with no load on it) and it appeared to work fine.

 

Cheers

AH........ that may be your problem ..... fit the flywheel first then fit the starter.

The flywheel has very little,(in most cases none at all) play/adjustment, whereas the starter does have some.

So you need to fit the flywheel first,get that bolted down and sorted, then when you refit the starter motor it will find its own adjustment, so to speak, when meshing with the flywheel. If the motor isn't in the 'right place',you'll be forcing the flywheel against the gear so causing an issue.

dont need to remove starter completely,just slacken off all bolts and let it find its own position.

You didn't want to hear that i know .........:cry:

Hope that made sense.

steve

Hi Nudge & Dunsfold,

 

I've had so many little hassles with this along the way that I hadn't got any further than refitting the flywheel, before testing.

 

Julian

err scuse another stupid question, but what did you fit first, the starter or the flywheel ???

Use a jump lead as a substitute earth lead.

clamp on somewhere convenient on the engine,and go straight to chassis or if you can get to it,neg terminal on battery.

You can buy earth straps at Halfords.

Just fit one end onto what bolt you can get to, and bolt onto a nearby bracket on the chassis.

When i did my engine swap, (Swapped out a completely knackered td, and fitted in a V8 ....long story,don't ask..) i put 2 earth straps on the block,and one on the gearbox. (hedging my bets so to speak)

As to part numbers, i gave up on them yrs ago, i used to take the offending part to my supplier and get them to match it up.got caught out to many times.

Is the gearbox on or off?

Thanks for the speedy response

 

Hmmm,

 

The ring gear is on the side closest to the engine, if fitted the other way round the pinion gear would be striking a flat surface, so I'm hoping I have got it the right way round. However I am beginning to regret not taking an abundance of pictures along the way as it's taken longer then expected and my memory has never been that great.

 

Both the ring gear and the pinion are what I would call straight cut but as far as I can see from underneath with a torch they do appear to mesh, but I was hoping that the wisdom of the forum might tell me if I have got the wrong starter. All I can say is that the ring gear was supplied to the part number from a LR parts manual dated 87-88 and this is a 93 vehicle and appeared to match visually with the one I removed (where it still had teeth anyway). But stranger things have happened.

 

 

AHHHH the old landrover part number chestnut ...... been there, done that, got stung many times ......:mad:

I had 3 rover eights in bits at one point .......2 different starter types ........

Another (stupid) quick thought, will it spin it over if you take the plugs out? ie no compression to fight?

Oh and there should be an earth strap from one of the starter mounting bolts to the chassis.

Thanks for the pic Ruxy ... memory now jogged !

Well - I tried to gingerly remove one, and managed to de-thread it only. Now I am going to have to work it out (heat it up, vise-grip, bolt/stud remover, etc). I will leave the other one in place and go from there. I created the problem; and now I will have to deal with the repercussions as only a fool knows how to do. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

One way of doing it,weld a nut onto the end of the stud, the heat produced should help matters,and you have a decent purchase for your spanner.

As has been said, leave them in, you don't need to replace them unless the thread is damaged.

Stupid question time ......

Have you fitted the ring gear/flywheel the right way round. (its been known)

Do the gears mesh,are they matching, not one bevel cut and one straight cut? ( this is landrover remember,they have so many different options for each model......)

can you turn the engine over by hand ..... why was the pinion and ring gear mashed in the first place?

and finally just because you have the volts in the battery,don't mean you have the amps needed to turn the engine over.

Its been quite a while since i've had anything to do with series landies, so can't (at the moment) picture the steering arms.

With regard to the swivel balls,whatever you use on them,just ensure that its all smooth,or you'll just ruin the seals again.

Maybe trying to correct a vehicle lean ?

This any good?? nicked off interweb.

The 1.5 shank diameter is a general rule for cold riveting. For hot riveting, you can have some more length. On my tongs, I hot rivet leaving 2.5 for a head, because I want a broad rivet head to lessen the slop (you'll have some slop).

My sixth edition, 1953, British book has some dimensions of manufactured rivet heads. They call a round head a "snap head." The head diameter is 1.75 the shank D. The head height is .75D. The flat head is 2D of the shank D. It's height is 1/4D. The brazier head is a low profile dome. Its head is 2D the shank, and its height is 1/2 shank D.

reference: "Handcraft in Metal" by A.J. Shirley and A.F. Shirley.

Get a length of flexible plastic hose,feed a length of string through it, tie a weight onto one end of the string.

Pull the string tight so it holds the weight against the hose, then feed the lot through the filler pipe. (weighted end first)

You'll have to judge when its cleared the filler neck.

let string go slack,so the weight drops down into the bottom of the tank.

Simply pull the lot back up.

Job done.

How about the wire that used to be used for net curtains?

My first thought as well.

Glad its not me going mad then .....

Had clicked 'remember me' ... still did it earlier.

cheers

Nah mate, can't be SAS ...... they aint got those black bars over their faces ......:-D

Have noticed that when trying to reply to threads on here i've had to log in to forum, even though i was already logged in?

Does it kick you out after a certain amount of time?

Get some low wattage lighting with red bulbs for that 'military' light effect.

Coming thru Grimsby today, something large and tracked on a low loader, couldn't tell what it was as the top of the hull hand been removed, could just about see the very large engine.

Left on the A180 heading westbound.