emmetgilgunn

sorry relised i was very rude in my lack of closier to this problem. long story short i got hold of a new multimeter and all was well as it turned out. olive is running fine again

thanks for the clear advice.

i think ill leave this as experence has taught me again and again if you are getting annoyed leave it

sorry if i am thick

i understand the high reistance readings being off the scale but the low reisitance ones i cant figure out why am i getting a 0______ as i do when they are not connected?

Do you think i am right in saying this genny is not working?

should i put it into my truck and see?

thanks for the reply ill elaborate.

the first point was that i was checking the resistance of my leads before i started to try and rule out multimeter (digital) problems. the reading i got by touching the two probes +ive and -ive was around 25 oam so the meter reads low reistance.

now what happens specificly when i test the (supposed recond) genny on my bench is that

when i do the tests that should result in low resistance -ive W + ive X i get a infinite reading (as if they are not connected) at all settings on my mutimeter up to 2000K ohms

when i do the tests that should read a high reading ie +ive W -iveX i get the expected high readings

im getting a headace

i think ill post this in a new topic. thanks

yea i figured that but why would i be getting a reading of 130 on the 200K oam setting on my mutimeter. is that not high

sorry another question re diodes

i am doing the tests given in all charged up part 4 and getting the following results

first multimeter giving resistance across probes as 25

across the terminals on a new alternator (out of truck) i am getting the usuall very high readings but when reversed i am getting nothing as in the two probes are not connected. this is happening across all diodes on a newly refurbished alternator.

am i missing somthing or is there somthing worng with my multimeter or am i just making a schoolboy error

well i have had a similar expierence trying to find parts. no luck i am afriad. i got serveral replies saying no

you dont by any chance know if the thread on the pully wheel castle nut tightens to the right or left? i know these pulley nuts can be unusuall.

that is incredably helpfull.

thank you

short answer its not

although i have found a new shunt box i am finding it hard to find a diode pack for the genarator

si there any trick to getting them out? i dont have a socket that fits around the diodes and also fits in the holes they are set in. if you understand my meaning?

do i need to take the cover off the outside of the alternator?

hi has anyone converted a ffr series 3 from 24v to 12v. i understand the need to change the 24V parts alternertor,starter wiper motor ect but how does the loom be effected can i safely use the exsisting one with the new parts and will it need much altering to work safley?

so far running all the checks i could it seems to suggest your diogionas was correct. further investigation is needed to confirm that they need replacing but as i use this landie reguraly i am trying to get it back on the road asap so gathering all details i can so i can order and recieve as soon as i know what i need.

preferably in ireland or the uk?

any helpfull hints before i start pulling it out ir for putting new ones in (apart from that great resource the all charged up series)

thanks in advance.

Emmet

thanks guys.

its a good forum with lots of information. glad i found my way here

thanks for the reply

so its worse than i taught. just as well i didnt stick the new box into it yet so.

the diodes on the generator

1 are they difficult to source and replace? or is it a specialist job.

2 is it normal for these to go? or again is it a sign of another problem

pick up ready

service

SERVICE

SERVICE!

:mad:

thanks for the welcome

right my series 3 ffr has no raidos fitted she is fairly good nick but last week while driving home there was a small spark from my (loose) ign warning light and then it would not go off.

i got home and looked around (using the all charged up series) and traced the problem to te genrator shunt box (the one behind the passenger seat) that had burnt trough a few wires and a capactor (i think) on the top half of it.

all my wires and belts seem fine and i have had the dash off to inspect them. all other ancilleries seem to be working but there is no charge going to the batts

it was a mark IV box but i have found a mark III to replace it . following some resarch i understand that apart from my ign light no longer working this should be a fine transplant however my questions are

1 is it normal for these to blow or is it a syomptom of somthing else? (there is no point putting a new one in if it will fry as well.

2 is there any way to check my genrator with the panel cover off ie by putting a multimeter across two terminals points?