emmetgilgunn

sorry relised i was very rude in my lack of closier to this problem. long story short i got hold of a new multimeter and all was well as it turned out. olive is running fine again

thanks for the clear advice. i think ill leave this as experence has taught me again and again if you are getting annoyed leave it

sorry if i am thick i understand the high reistance readings being off the scale but the low reisitance ones i cant figure out why am i getting a 0______ as i do when they are not connected? Do you think i am right in saying this genny is not working? should i put it into my truck and see?

thanks for the reply ill elaborate. the first point was that i was checking the resistance of my leads before i started to try and rule out multimeter (digital) problems. the reading i got by touching the two probes +ive and -ive was around 25 oam so the meter reads low reistance. now what happens specificly when i test the (supposed recond) genny on my bench is that when i do the tests that should result in low resistance -ive W + ive X i get a infinite reading (as if they are not connected) at all settings on my mutimeter up to 2000K ohms when i do the tests that should read a high reading ie +ive W -iveX i get the expected high readings im getting a headace

i think ill post this in a new topic. thanks

yea i figured that but why would i be getting a reading of 130 on the 200K oam setting on my mutimeter. is that not high

sorry another question re diodes i am doing the tests given in all charged up part 4 and getting the following results first multimeter giving resistance across probes as 25 across the terminals on a new alternator (out of truck) i am getting the usuall very high readings but when reversed i am getting nothing as in the two probes are not connected. this is happening across all diodes on a newly refurbished alternator. am i missing somthing or is there somthing worng with my multimeter or am i just making a schoolboy error

well i have had a similar expierence trying to find parts. no luck i am afriad. i got serveral replies saying no

you dont by any chance know if the thread on the pully wheel castle nut tightens to the right or left? i know these pulley nuts can be unusuall.

that is incredably helpfull. thank you

short answer its not although i have found a new shunt box i am finding it hard to find a diode pack for the genarator

si there any trick to getting them out? i dont have a socket that fits around the diodes and also fits in the holes they are set in. if you understand my meaning? do i need to take the cover off the outside of the alternator?

hi has anyone converted a ffr series 3 from 24v to 12v. i understand the need to change the 24V parts alternertor,starter wiper motor ect but how does the loom be effected can i safely use the exsisting one with the new parts and will it need much altering to work safley?

so far running all the checks i could it seems to suggest your diogionas was correct. further investigation is needed to confirm that they need replacing but as i use this landie reguraly i am trying to get it back on the road asap so gathering all details i can so i can order and recieve as soon as i know what i need.

preferably in ireland or the uk? any helpfull hints before i start pulling it out ir for putting new ones in (apart from that great resource the all charged up series) thanks in advance. Emmet