Adrian169045

Pm sent 

There is a arrow on the end 

anti clockwise is left hand 

Hi all

on the hunt for 2 engine side fv432 torsion bars and be willing to help send to Australia 

cheers 

Remove the bulkhead and it's easy to get to.

they do have a habit of sheering off the gears

I got a couple of spares if you need

I also have all the wiring diagrams

the wires will be marked

cheers

adrian

we borrowed an inlet mag from another engine to test both of mine. so i will need an inlet mag and 2 inlet harnesses. i mentioned changing the HT leads to the engine guy but he didn't seem keen on the idea. maybe he knows something i don't, if i can't find NOS replacements then i'll have to bodge what we have

I can find the parts you need , I aso do a conversion to run modern leads and plugs and electronic ignition

I think I know where one is ,

dO you have strv 104 final drives ?

No mounts for track on the front

think it's the mk2 with the large NBC external box has a provision to mount 2 or more spare links on top of the box

Hi all

On the hunt for the drivers main isolator box and the cables that goes into it , my 432 2/1 suffered a massive internal electrical fire in the box and melted the crap out of it and the cables going out also,

Can anyone help ?

Cheers

ok so I took out the dlb and found 12b wire inside burn out and the 12b wire in the group that runs from dlb to the isolator.

other than that nothing else I could see was wrong .any ideas ?

cheers

That sounds as though the starter solenoid or starter relay are stuck in the "on" position, especially if it starts without the engine or start switches being pressed. If it's the starter solenoid then it's a pack out job, but check what's happening at DLB 21A as you may be lucky and find it's the starter relay.

 

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Andy

thanks for that

it only stays on once the start button is pressed .

I am going to pull the dlb today and have a look

Hi all

I went to slave start my 432 2/1 today the same as every other time the bats are low . I put the slave lead on as per usual and started her up no dramas . I then noticed the lights dim and the amp gauge go to full . I tried to turn it off with no luck . Hit emergency stop and she stopped . What I did hear is the starter still running hence the high amp reading .

I put some fresh batteries in and turned the master on and everything was normal then went to start it and the starter stayed on again .same thing Killed the motor and started to have a look

found the earth lead to the main isolator box melted and cut

the lead that travels form main isolator box to dis box had one lead burnt to a crisp.

I also found that if I bridge the slave leads she will crank over with the master on

I don't know where to start as I have no electrical diagrams

Any help would be great

Cheers

Adrian

That thought had occurred! I have a 168-3, it's from a Cent but it might be for the aux gen.

Yeah mate its from the aux gen but does run the same components with a few extras

cheers

Have you tried Tim Vibert?

yeah mate I have . he has them but I cant justify the price he wants for one so I thought I would ask over seas

cheers

Hi all my cent decided it would be fun and burn out the main engine alternator voltage control system box cav type 155-6x . Anyone know where I can source one?

Cheers

so I will drop in to the tank museum and look.

sorry mate you will not be allowed onto the base .the raac museum is shut to civs due to oz raising their security level .there wa a event I was going to and it all got shut down

vid of on site decom

Also they never had ac . But did have NBC

The info might be both correct . The info I have is from the ones that were decom from pucka

So the one in the pic has not pack ?

or does it have concrete ?

OK lets get things correct about the oz leo at rsl

they did NOT take packs out and fill with concrete .

they drained all fluids and ran engine till they locked up .

they punched holes into block to prevent engine rebuild

breach was NOT cut off . they were welded shut . barrels were welded to breach and plug welded into muzzle . hole cut in barrel the size of a coke can near the mantlet .

hydraulic tank was filled with expander foam .

everything was left in turret except laser rangefinder and radios

all asbestos taken out

all hatches were welded shut

all acc bins welded shut

my mate was involved in the decom

i was lucky enough to get inside and take pics before they welded her shut .

all rsl leos are on loan from the army .if they are not kept in good nick they will repo the tank without notice .

out of the 104 we had only 8 or so are runners and they live at the RAAC museum

cheers

Adrian

Do the valves have markings on? Post some of those and we may be able to trace back.

big valves have cv 1947 kb/t arrow above jf

small valves cv1985 kb/fb arrow above mj

cheers

adrian

Ahh..... I'll have a look through all my books and see if there is anything you need.

thanks for that

thanks for that

i have that on cd

the seller wont post to australia

i didnt see any drawings for the inside only what plugs into the box

cheers

Hi All

since i have had my cent i have only been using the traverse in emergency mode . now i know what i am doing and have some books telling me how to fire up the stab i thought i would give it a go. it worked for a little time and and the all of a sudden the gun fell on to the rubber stops on the hull . now the only thing i can do is traverse the turret is in emergency .

everything seams to fire up like the metadine. gyros. alternator . so the question is does anyone have an electrical schematic for the unit under the breach that controls all this equipment ?

no one in AUS so far has been able to help and i don know what i am looking at without an schematic . here are some pics of the unit. any info regarding would be gratefully appreciated

cheers

Adrian

remove the hedder tank first then take the fans out . this will allow you to access the bolts to get the rads out the big nut is the hard way for removal of the rads