Grasshopper

I found on the foot air valve that there are 2x wire gauze filters which can be completely blocked up with rust. Worth checking them out. 

From memory we hoarded a bunch of NOS Chieftain hoses (years ago) as they had the same ends, and had a couple re-made into the length we required. 

Pedal to the floor is normal for full air brakes, whether the pedal operates the brakes are moving is another thing! I had the pedal on one of mine fail while shunting, something inside stuck and it ran away backwards down a small hill in a field.

It is normal for there to be no feedback through the pedal itself. I understand most Matadors were full air, with a smaller number being air/hydraulic brakes. 

While a tyre can visibly have good treads and no cracking visible, no telling what the state of the tyre structure is. 

There have been a few cases in the PSV world of accidents being caused by the failure of old tyres (a quick internet search will show this), I recall (but can't find a link to at the moment) a vintage car which had 20 year old tyres on and one failed causing the death of the owner. 

When I was in the vintage bus restoration game, the worst words I would dread from an owner was "It hasn't done many miles since last years MOT".... First thing we'd then do was strip the wheels and drums off and un-seize all the brake shoe pivots and then go from there.  The telltale for the state of the brake system on a Routmaster was if the handbrake came up a lot more than 3 clicks, then it hadn't had any maintenance. 

All you need to do is remove the seat back and the height bungees at the rear,  remove the two nuts at the front of the sliders (in the drivers comp.) and pull the sliders off the studs, then operate the seat height adjuster which withdraws the locking bolts from the height adjuster bar. Then its a wiggle and a waggle to get it out. 

Could also be stuck thermostat or a blocked radiator. 

I sold my M1009 to a forum member at the northern tip of the Uk as it was being problematic to park in my road (due to width and living in a Cul-de-sac). Not long after that I moved to a house with a driveway, so wish I could have kept it! Would love an M1009 or Dodge equivalent at some point. Would be tempted to drop a Cummins B Series in one too. 

Given that some people passed their Cat H test on private land, I'd have though that the vehicle type is not an issue. 

I spy early type rubber tyred rear idlers... I hope they hold up as theyre not as easy to replace as road wheels!

That lamp is something to do with the split charge system (radio batteries). It's an odd lamp too if you ever need to replace it. 

I've had POR15 in my MUTT for 11 years now. I can see in the tank and the covering still appears fine. Having done the same in a Ferret tank, the best way I found to coat the tank was to roll it around a field for a while! Also had some stands set up to drain the excess afterwards. 

We do manufacture power transformers of all sizes in the UK. We also export them - its a global market. 

I believe that one or some of the Trojan chassis were originally Alvis Unipower prototypes (formerly Scammell) 

http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/Alvis-Unipower

I found rolling the tank around a field for 20 minutes seemed to give it a good coating. Did the same for the degreasing prior to coating - good exercise! Our tank was so bad it had to have the back side cut out to have the interior shot blasted.

There are stollys about in the UK which have had disconnects fitted, but what and how I have no idea! 

I wouldn't have thought you'd need a hoist to get the head off. I use to work on vintage busses (and the odd vintage truck) and never needed a hoist to get a head off. Lift the head up a bit at one end and pack it out with card or timber, repeat at the other end and so forth until it is high enough to lift off. May be a 2 person job.

My MUTT had POR15 added in the fuel tank when restored some 12-13 years ago, and it's still lovely and clean and leak free. A good product (I have no link to the manufacturer nor am I affiliated with any distributors of said product). I've since used it in a Ferret fuel tank and would not hesitate to use it again. 

From experience, ball joints go with an alarming bang! I worked on a lot of AEC busses and we had a big wind-on ball joint splitter for those.

I read somewhere that at it's peak W&P had somewhere near 4000 vehicles exhibited.  

Bob, PM sent. 

Someone got a bargain there.

Had an engine expire due to low oil pressure, but on that occasion we took the precaution of having it followed with a recovery truck due to it being a first proper road run. Then discovered the low oil warning lamp had been removed from the vehicle dash...

Also had a coolant hose split, fortunately not far from a show site. Cooled down, repaired filled and bled up the system. Also had brake pad, handbrake, brake cylinder, coil and road wheel issues but on show sites. Also had an HT lead ceramic end crack. 

SOLD.