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mattblack

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Posts posted by mattblack

  1. The blue and red square is to mark the water proofing stage complete I believe, I shall confirm in my aesp's later on.

     

    I was in the belief that was only the 'A' and 'B' red blue rectangles usually on wings

    i have seen non wading vehicles with the larger blue / red squares which white numbers on

  2. Living in the West Country I often see many Royal marine vehicles of all types.

    Some have a blue/red square with a white number on.

    As can be seen on this pic of a defender above the number plate

    rm.jpg

     

    Does it represent a troop, a section ,an area etc etc

    I have seen many different numbers 6, 9, 14 ,1 etc

     

    Is there a definitive specific allocation or what do they represent

    I have wondered for years

    Thanks in advance for any response

  3. As a stall holder at this event for a fair few years,the price of the pitch and the fuel costs put paid to my idea of this event being much fun this year.So much so that I gave the TATBARROW up completely.

    Lugging the "TAT" an extra 50 miles definately doesnt seem a good idea for 2013.

    I can see that other traders may think about this and the price of goodies may reflect at the additional transport costs in 2013.

    Will I still attend as an exhibitor, well Im going to have to weigh that one up, driving a V8 snatch isnt cheap at the best of times and the extra distance may be a show too far.

  4. its been persistant rain here in Somerset,all day today.Making loading vehicles and preping them ready for the trip rubbish.

    If the ground at Beltring is anything like my garden is at present its going to be difficult to find an area to pitch a tent that doesnt have standing water on. Least of all drive to/across.

    I hope this bad spell soon passes.

    Wellies are loaded !

    and its not gunna stop me from coming

  5. with the talk of 'trenchfoot' here and there, I will be bringing a quantity of army foot powder .stall A33/34 !

    should sell out quickly by the sound of things:-D:-D

    On a lighter note, the rain wont put a dampner on the show, we have all been wet muddy cold or hot and dusty before ,Its all part of the great atmosphere that makes us attend and return each year.

    Im there from Sunday all being well.

    I just hope the GINGER GAMON bar doesnt get flooded !

    Looking forward to being there

  6. Heres a couple of newly converted 'R-WMIK+' on the back of a low loader at Bridgwater Truck stop en route to Lympstone at the end of last year, note the numberplates.....'KK' denotes an ex Snatch landrover (32KK76)...The other is a converted xD Wolf (HJ69AA). Cosmetically the same and about time that surplus vehicles were recycled rather than cast and ££££s spent on new vehicles, me thinks.

     

     

    HJ69AA (1024x768).jpg

    32KK76 (1024x768).jpg

  7. You could try GI Joe in Grantham Lincolnshire,they advertise the bodies on ebay and may have the items you require.

    Do a search on ebay and you will find their contact details on one of their listings.Im sure they do a postal service,ask for Russell or John and say hello from me too.

    Good luck

  8. As far as power , the snatch 1b was either just 12volts vehicle with a standard A127 alternator.

     

    Or 12volt and 24 volt with the addition of a deprecate alternator.

     

    Battery location for the 12volt system was under passenger seat on right hand drive models.

    24volt under drivers seats .

     

    Most snatch 2s were 24volt vehicle electrics as standard as per the wolf fleet.

  9. The chassis is a standard chassis seemingly reinforced top and bottom with continuous 4mm plate.I'm wondering if you have as a base vehicle a comPlete snatch, or have acquired a pod of a snatch.If you have a pod , do you have the 'A' frame that sts on the front outriggers and follows the standard defender bulkhead ?It also supports the front of the pod at roof level. It's made from 40mm box section, this unique part is vital if you are to fit the windscreen sections if you have them as well ?Also if you just have the pod you will need the front inside bulkhead section of makralon .A snatch 1 or 1b is based on a v8 petrol with lt85 gearbox and lt230 transfer box.Salisbury front and rear axles .Double decardron front prop ( expensive )If you are doing a snatch 2 then it's the 300tdi with R380 gearbox and Lt230 transfer box.I will check on axles when I have time, but disc brakes all round.instead of drums on rear as per snatch 1.The dashboard features different console for standard 6way lighting switch and there are separate controls for locking rear doors and controlling the remote spotlight.Of the 4 I own no two are the same and they are all currently snatch 1b.As I research further and restore the next I will be upgrading to a snatch 2 incorporating drivetrain and interior enhancements . I will post progress and help other fellow snatch owners with info where and when I can.Best wishesColin

  10. If you are a member of the Ex Military LandRover Association ,They have the facility to obtain the service history of vehicles and trailers etc.

    Membership costs £20 a year I think and a history search is £5(possibly per vehicle) with no limitation on how many VRN you have, it can take a few weeks as they are sent out in batches.

    I have had the history done on 3 of the Snatches I have, quite interesting results

    regards

  11. Ok now because the cab floor is not removeable like a normal defender landrover, (its a moulded vpk section with feet that fit on each front outrigger and the 2nd outrigger,and has the full weight of the back composite body on it)

    You can either somehow take the weight of the rear body off this (requiring crane/forklift or hoist) then somehow manipulate the floor out.....

    This option I considored not to be at all viable !

     

    As the Snatch like most military defenders has a removable crossmember under the gearbox its simpler to take the gearbox out from underneath,a headache yes but simpler to the diy owner.

     

     

     

    Note the prop to support the engine, (which will drop once gearbox is disconnected)

     

     

     

     

    Ensure vehicle is level ground and stable !

     

     

     

     

    At this stage I decided to sandblast the whole chassis prime and paint before refitting gearbox..

     

     

     

     

    this view shows how some sourced railway sleepers were used to lift the complete vehicle high enough to remove the gearbox from underneath.

    An engine crane was used through the passenger door to support the gearbox, mountings undone, gearbox seperated from engine,(all bolts are accessable from underneath the vehicle and by removing the air filter inside the engine compartment) then slowly the gearbox can be lowered to the floor.

     

     

     

    On examination my box had suffered from the hi/lo ratio and diff lock being seized,

    No wonder with half the Iraq desert which had set like concrete around linkages to transfer box.

     

     

     

     

     

    cleaned and repaired, a lot of effort to do this job as access is not available from the top like a normal defender !

     

     

     

     

    also a good time to check clutch components before refitting.

     

     

     

    many hours later with chassis painted and gearbox relocated, using same method as removal.

     

    A task that requires lots of time patience and space.

    A garage could undertake this job far more effectively and efficiently Im sure, however the cost may be quite considerable.

     

     

     

    My enjoyment comes from taking em apart fixing em and putting em back together again

     

    26KK58 was road registered in July 2011 and has travelled from its new home in Somerset to

    War and Peace show Beltring Kent

    LRO show Peterborough

    4x4 Sortout Newbury Showground

    Plain Invasion HMVF event

    Help for Heroes Bournmouth Aviation Museum

     

    Not without fault (its a LandRover after all)

    It has been taken apart and put back together again, if any fellow snatch owners need any advice feel free to ask I will help with advice and respond as time permits

     

     

    2011_0416_203047 (800x600).jpg

    032 (800x600).jpg

    037 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0417_142856 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0417_180519 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0417_142831 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0517_170035 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0408_163218 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0417_180750 (640x480).jpg

    2011_0603_212015 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0710_121337 (800x600).jpg

    2011_0717_202528 (800x600).jpg

  12. Right,

    do you really need to remove it ?

    the only way is to remove from underneath , unless you can lift off the 1.2 tons of body from the cab floor....which will in turn need removing.

    If your hi-low and diff lock are seized then you are best to remove the box because space underneath is tight to access.

     

    If its just your handbrake seized , the job is possible to do with box in situ as is replacing transfer box.

    All the above mentioned jobs I have done.

     

    I would suggest a 4 post ramp that will lift 2.7 tons of snatch is the best option in removing the gearbox , however railway sleepers a 3 ton trolley jack a good engine hoist and a friend whom has plenty of spare time and patience and you wil achieve the same result.

    The complete vehicle will need to be level and lifted about 2ft so the gearbox can be lowered and slid under the chassis rails.

    I will post a few pics here when I get a minute.

    All good fun and adventure of the vehicle

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