markbg

Right Mark, you should bump into me there, I will be doing a bit of marshalling over the weekend.

good stuff see you therev- you'll probably be marshalling my fox as we have an arena run to do apparently

hi - yes im an IMPS member so will be there from friday onwards setting up i'll try and meet you there

cheers

Mark B

didnt answer the whole question ive filled the front bevels and this cured most of the noise i thonk your right about the nodule on the cv joint but have not had time to check this yet ttm was very helpful guy though i was glad to meet him and other hmvf guys - i also met an wx blues and royals guy who had dricen foxes for awhile and he said that the banging problem was normal on the fox

Hi Mark,

 

Sorry, TTM said you were around, and he was going to check your noise. Did he come to any conclusion? I was often away from our camp wandering, so must have missed each other. are you going to Combined Ops at Headcorn?

hi - yes im an IMPS member so will be there from friday onwards setting up i'll try and meet you there

cheers

Mark B

I remember that somewhere it was mentioned to use the GL4 spec of the SAE 90EP rather than the GL5 version as the GL5 is detrimental to the yellow metal in the boxes. Richard, do you have something on this?

its on the landrover forum gl5 idoes rot brass etc not sure if i have this in my hubs though -

Mark,

I have just found a comaprison chart on the internet, and ISO220 is equivalent to SAE90 gear oil.

 

So it looks like in this case, the army numbering was based on the ISO grade, this also happened on some of the military hydraulic oil specs. Always best to check though.

the irony of this is i was looking for you when i found the guy in americas field - too tall mike sent me round there to get a second oppinipn from yourself about the banging on full lock - anyway thanks as always for the input and one day i hope to meet you

cheers

Mark B

In the UK we tend to only use ISO viscosity standards for hydraulic oils, where as gear and engine oils are known under SAE viscosity grades. I cannot line up the ISO220 viscosity with SAE80w/90 which is what the army spec oil, OEP220 is. It may be confusion with the army designation of 220, which is not neccesarily its grade in civvy terms. Best to keep it simple and use a normally available gear oil grade of SAE 80w/90 or SAE 90EP for your Fox, and it looks like you are using the correct grade with the Morris oil you mentioned.

Hi - sounds good to me the lodexolultradrive is specified as 80w/90 but for all pressures so ill keep using it

thanks

Mark B

Just a quick one i have been using Lodexol ultradrive for my bevel boxes etc - i bought it from morrisons however at war and peace i met a guy with a fox in americas field who stated he uses trojan 220 as the gear oil needs to be iso220? should i get this instead?

ive seen some extreme pressure gear oil which is iso220 but if this the case why are people using ep90?

great stuff thanks all

at least i dont have to change the oil this weekend

I do know the manual states the filter has a bypass IF the filter is clogged up but not whether its full flow at all other times...

I cant link the other thread where yhis was discussed but basically the gist was that if you have a partial flow filter you dont want oil that holds all the crud in suspension as it can block oil ways and means the lumps get into bearings etc - for partial flow you want a low detergent oil that dumps the lumps etc in the sump

Therefore I know that the oil I should use is OMD110/75 but in discussion with ex mod guy ay morrisons theres no equivalent of this - omd is a military grade so with information plus previous thread where the merits of the different grades of oil were discussed if i have a partial flow filter i am better off with a low detergent oil like 20w/50 golden film oil from morrisons rather than 15/50 multi vis which they state requires a full flow filter

Im no expert but i hope that exlains it

Hi Hi

Looking at a recent post I think I put the wrong type of oil in the Fox - I bought 15w/50 multivis from morrisons but it states this is best for full flow oil cartridges - however I would assume the fox has a partial flow filter? is this correct?

cheers

Mark B

Ive known MS for many years and wouldnt buy a tin of paint off him. Let alone a Fox. I heard it start one day. And it sounded rather roppy.

thats the one i nearly bought - it went past our camp backfiring and sputtering all over the place

Hi all

Just like to say it was great meeting some of you the other day - Lee, Mike and others

thanks for the help as usual im coming back tonight with all the oil drums to fill up the hubs and bevels etc

hopefully do an arena run at the weekend

Didnt find Richard F in the end but met another Fox owner up on Americas field

cheers

Mark

Hi

I can fill up the bleed nipples wirh ep90 is there anywhere else to top up oil - bevel boxes?I assume these must be inside the hull though as I cant see them in the wheel recess area?

Ive had a look at the steering link and that looks all ok as far as i can see

Richard - im assuming the spherical housing and tubular part is in the wheel bay? not inside the hull?

cheers

Mark B

Hi Mark,

 

That will be a tracta joint that has friction welded at some point. What happens is that on the normal straight ahead position, there has been a a point on the tracta fork and tracta knuckle that has friction welded, transfering metal form one to another, leaving a pimple and a hole, when on hard lock the joint is running out of line so the pimple is jamming in its articulation. Normally, these can be stripped and polished off, the hole, if not to large, is a slight asset as it retain a bit of oil. Damage to tracta housing (challis) can result from all this knocking and it could already have happened if you are loosing oil. Visually check the challis, inner and outer, to back sure they have not broken at the neck. If you are not sure, I am talking about the polished spherical housing where it joins the tubular flanged part.

Thanks Ill have a look about tomorrow its just started happening so hopefully not too much damage done

Hi

Did a final test run today before driving dow

n to war and peace show and found that at full lock turning right theres a banging sound with vibratins coming from the front left side of the vehicle - its like rhe steering was kicking ahainst yhe side wall of the chassis - there seems to be some oil leaking down as well - any ideas what might be causing the banging? it pnly happens at full lock on the steering?

otherwise all ok - hope ill see some of you down there

:cool2::-D:cool2::-D:cool2::-D:cool2::drive:GOOD NEWS!!!!!! My Saracen is up and running again!, and seems to be behaving itself. looks like it's got over it's brief period of incontinence too, the leek-stopper fluid seems to have worked in the flywheel. The brakes and steering are pin-sharp (ok, so it might be a BIG FAT pin!!!!), gears change beautifully, so everything looks ok, for the time being...... gonna renew my breakdown cover, and go out for a spin tomorrow, to the local car-wash:-D

Could you tell me what the leak-stopper product was? I have a leak on the flywheel when in use but not at a standstill and that sounds like a good solution until I fot the new flywheel I have?

cheers

Mark

When you look at the Modern British Army of today using

 

MAN Trucks

Austrian Pinzgauers

Hagglunds

 

All readily availabe, tried and tested and work !

 

I remember the birth of the SA 80 Rifle and the billions of pounds spent on its development, I was one of many Soldiers who test fired it and passed back the comments that were ignored...why didnt the Government just shell out and buy the tried and tested American Amerlite?

Probably the worst thing we found with the original rifles issued (SA80) was that there was no magazine release shroud so you'd be walking along and a stand to would be shouted out only for you to find you'd triggered the release catch against your body and you had no magazine in the rifle *doh*

particuarly embarassing whilst doing a PNC on someone looking as intimidating as possible only to have your magazine clatter to the floor :shocked:

the mil reg is 10fd93 and ill post some pics as soon as i can

That's how I understand it, wouldn't have thought the flywheel had enough drag to stop the Fox rolling freely, my Fox rolls when out of gear.. I suggested Mark may have a flywheel problem as he's been having a problem in that area.. if it overheated maybe the vanes have warped & locked together or catching?? maybe Chris or Richard would have a better understanding of this..

Hmm but if you engage a gear surely the band tightens on the drum but as there is no power the vehicle is stopped from rolling? in other words if the gear box cant move nor can the vehicle?

hi - no its mot a sticking brake as if i apply the footbrake the vehicle stops rolling if i release the foot brake the vehicle rolls freely - if i leave in gear and switch off the vehicle stays in place ??

hi - well im a bit surprised today - i stopped the engine on the fox today but forgot to change it to neutral - i expected that the fox would roll back on the slope but it didnt move?? i didnt think i could use the gears like on a car to stop the vehicle rolling e.g. on an upward slope i can put the fox in first gear - switch off engine and it doesnt move - so why not do this all the time as i dont trust the hand brake bands to hold the fox?

will this cause any damage parking the fox in gear?

Tip: You can use the original washers again If you heat to cherry red & quench imediately in cold water. This will soften them & allow 'crushing up' when tightening to seal correctly.

Mike

All of them have dowty seals on them but the leaking is still occurring so just called RB and am getting the original copper ones - the dowty seals seem ok when the flywheel isnt moving but dont seal when its turning - albeit I think half an inch washers are a tighter fit than 5/8 by the looks of it

anyway Ill get the original copper ones - as they are not used before I assume I dont need to heat them up to cherry red?

You need LV3JG/5365-99-815-6966 (plug)

and LV9CVW/2520-99-829-5393 (washer)

 

Chris

hi - ive found the dowty washers 5/8 th size works fine - i didnt know plugs parts though so thanks for that one is basically knackered so ill replace

thanks again!

Two plugs at 180 degrees to each other. If you think that a plug might have been fouling then it should show witness marks, same with the tin cover on the flywheel.

thanks guys - one of them is absolutely knackered - no corners left so looks like the culprit to me