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Posts posted by rampant rivet
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Will the air / petrol mixture be weak if intake remains heated by exhaust gasses ? I've looked through my manuals but hav'n found the specific info. I remember the carb on my Chevrolet actually freezing on start up, white frost would for on the carb body and the engine would stutter to a stop you had to then give it a few minutes and it would strt and run ok.
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Yes I'm led to believe that they were welded in the "running position " as left stuck in the cold or " starting position " would mean the induction manifold running hot which wouldn't be good for getting the correct air/fuel mixture into the engine so not having one fitted at all sounds a bit dodgy to me. I'm sure ive read something about the dangers of the thermostat sticking in one of the maintenance manuals
I'v set mine up using a hot air gun to get the correct operaton and will do one final check tomorrow before I fire up the welder.
I'm also going to fit parts 1035724 spring, accelerator, return and 1039295 bracket which was missing.
Forgot to mention that yes got all the necessary parts from Chris Morter.
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Hi Andy
I used a hacksaw blade to cut the shaft between the flap and casting, tried to tap it out after grinding the shaft where it was welded to the flap but no good only managed to snap the casting on the counter weight .
After cutting through the shaft either side of the flap it was easy to tap out the bushes and replace, then fettle them untill the shaft rotated easily bearing in mind it'll tighten up as it gets hot.
The only thing I think may be reusable is the flap though I hav'nt tried to drive the old shaft out yet as I opted to replace it all with new parts from Chris.
Pic shows the amount of wear on the shaft and remains of the bushes, plus the two part counter weight
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55 minutes ago, andy1960 said:
Thanks Jez...did you not have someone up here in the Midlands?
Nearest to you was Phoenix engineering in Hereford but they were crazy expensive so Brian sorted it for me
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3 hours ago, Jelleyboy said:
have you got a 2nd bedford Jeremy?....
Hi Luke
One MW is enough for me 😎
The engine currently in the MW is an OY block and was always due to be replaced, the engine I am now building is an early MW block from around 1940, I wanted a near as new engine fitted for peace of mind as I aim to put some miles on the truck in the coming years.
The OY Block Will be rebuilt as a spare as it's on 20 thou mains and pistons there is still life left in it, I've already found a set of + 30 pistons and big end bearings so all I'll need is a set of crank bearings and it's sorted.
Cheers J.
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Hi Andy
Brian at Forest Engine Services Ltd organised the rebore and is currently giving the block a skim as soon as that's done I'll get it back for painting then the rebuild can resume.
J.
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Hi Ron could you post a few close up photo's of the spacer set up as they would be of great help in my resto , I have to swap my stand off my spare frame onto my 41 WDC so need to know how it all goes please.
Regards RR.
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Hi Richard
Think it's for a coolant drain tap, well it is on the engine thats in my truck at the mo 😎
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Just checked my stand and it's 7" from centre of spindle to foot of stand
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Great thread Ron, only just read it through more inspiration and information to help in my WDC resto when I get around to it thanks for the pics and info all.
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That looks great Richard 😎 I have to find an lternative engine shop for my rebore but hope to get it sorted before Xmas.
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On 17/11/2017 at 7:12 PM, 64EK26 said:
Engine block, crank shaft and cam shaft back from machinists cost was £228 (inc VAT) which I though was quite reasonable
Crank and Camshaft pollished up very nicely. The block bored to +.020 (for NOS W grade pistons) and skimmed. Finished the clean up of the crank case ready for painting with satin black (high temperature engine paint)
Looking great Richard looks like we are restoring 28hp's in parallel I'm just about to get my block rebored, wish I could use your guy but a bit too far away. Any more progress on the RLC info ?
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After a first attempt using parts washer solvent I decided to try a hot air gun to remove the preservative gloop , gently melting the sticky stuff inside and out speeded up the process some.
Pistons are in perfect condition after being in storage for so many years, testament to the quality of the packing methods used.
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After a quick scoot around the Malvern land rover jumble an afternoon of tinkering with the truck was achieved
Managed to get the catches sorted out for the trap door in rear floor a fiddly job I'd been putting off.
Then painted a patch of "gas detection paint " on the bonnet.
Looks rather light in the pic but ok in daylight .
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Doh !
in A new home
Sorry Joris I still cannot find the threads that I used to follow 😣
bedford MWD side board conflict
in British Vehicles
Posted
Here' my attempt
Outside view.
Inside view of the side panel showing a countersunk bolt, top left, this is how my original body was put together.