djwalker

I would be very interested in seeing a picture of your ex Skegness machine. I assume it's not on your flickr site as can't see it.

 

Craig

Should be visible here, Craig.

http://www.cheshiremerseysidemvt.com/#/members-vehicles/4562027144

Took these pictures of Alvis Mk6 's in Skegness in 1988 recently scanned them in and have been trying to find some info about them , pleased to hear one may still survive !

 

Craig

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104005[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]104006[/ATTACH]

That is very interesting! I am given to understand that one of the three of these I currently own is one the of former Skegness pair. As time goes by, I am less and less sure that I will be able to restore any of these, so if anyone is interested.....

Hi dan,I weighed mine with no gear on and it weighed 21,500 kg and then with the gear on it went 25,000 dead.

That is brilliant. Thanks so much. I knew the c.e.s. was heavy but blimey... Best wishes, Dan

Anyone able to tell me the empty weight of the Foden Recovery?

The old with the new

 

Many thanks for your help today, cossy. The convoy will be back there some time today....I hope!

The former recy mechs did really enjoy seeing the Bedford "lite" alongside the modern.

Yes - An Americanism, I'm sure. We should call things by the correct name. So from now on it will be "Tractor, 3 Ton, GS, Recovery, Light, 4 x 4, Bedford, RL"! Regards.

Wrecker is a description we seem to have inherited from over the pond, in the English language it is 'someone who wrecks or destroys'. Many years ago I had a severe ticking off from a REME officer when I referred to his Fodens as wreckers:embarrassed: "They are recovery vehicles, they don't go out wrecking anything" he barked.

With respect Dan, neither the AFS or REME used wreckers, as per the thread title they were recovery vehicles and as you rightly say they manned by Reccy Mechs not Wrecky Mechs:cool2:

Excellent machine! For (some) cab panels, try Brian Whiteside (nr Poole) (Wimbourne). He has some other stuff too. Rhys Hughes (Fishguard) also has loads of RL stuff. Are the panels beyond repair??

It is fantastic to see one the of rare ex-AFS wreckers still in existence, and your photos show clearly some of the interesting mods at the rear end.

There is a really nice guy out there (Tony) who has lovingly created a beauty of an AFS wrecker from the "standard" army version, with these AFS mods. In recent years he has taken it to the Welland Steam Rally as part of an AFS event, but unfortunately that won't be repeated this year. You may well know him...

I am the current custodian of two ex REME wreckers which I am absolutely mad on. At end of May, REME are arriving as near to my home as they can get with a MAN SVR + trailer to "borrow" YSU 350 for a ReccyMech get-together and action day with some other, BIG, ex REME wreckers, including Scammell and Foden EKA. YSU 350 still needs some work on the cab, but wiring, air, and brakes are all renewed. Still work to do on it. The other I haven't yet touched, but it drove 100 miles OK before it overheated. (Turns out the engine block cooling is blocked up.)

I have an original copy of the User Handbook which I am going to get copied and when it is done, if you want, you are welcome to a copy.

Regards, Dan

Apologies for being a bit (well-very) slow off the mark here, but did you get the answers you wanted re winch ancillary layout?

I drove my 6x6 Mk1 130miles home two years ago. It was (for me, anyway) hard work, but do-able. Hardest to fathom gearbox I've ever encountered. Avoid motorways.

That is incredibly helpful, thank-you. That gives me loads to go on. And you have confirmed what I suspected about only one of the two pins being used, the solenoid earth return being shared with the main power earth I presume?

Is replacement of the conductor inside the braiding feasible? There has been deep water in the hull and I think that may be why the starter packed in. I doubt it will have done the cables much good either.

Also, in the cab, the wires out of the driver switchboard don't look great and they seem to go into the switchboard itself rather than into plessey-type connector. Know anything about this? DJW

The wiring between the junction box and starter motor is simply a 12 amp cable, originally made from unipren, running inside a tinned copper braided outer hose. At the jnc box end, the cable passes through a rubber bush inside a threaded union, of which the hexagon end of the braided outer screws onto, and is simply put into the correct terminal in the box and the terminal screw tightened. At the starter end is a 2 pin plessey connector, of which only 1 pin is used, and the other end of the braided hose is screwed onto this connector. The plessey connectors can be completely stripped, though they are very fiddely! Lots of small bits, pins, seals, threaded rings etc.....

 

This is the view of the inside of the junction box.

 

This is a shot of a 5 pin plessey connector, would guess 2 pin identical.

 

Any more info, just shout.

I am soon going to be changing the starter motor on my Alvis Stalwart (STAL54). While I am at it, I would like to know more about the wiring system: for example, the braided cable that runs from the ignition junction box to the starter motor. I'd like to find out what sort of cables and connectors were used, and I'd appreciate advice on how best to go about sympathetically rejuvenating the wiring, cleaning the connector contacts, and possibly sourcing replacements. I'd like the wiring to be safe and reliable, but as "authentic" as possible too. DJW

Roughly what load??

What happened? Nothing broke? No-one hurt?

When i first started this thread i had a few people ask how much it it would carry when modified to day i found out much it cant carry will put pic on on as soon as i recieve it on my e mail.

I own ex- Royal Aircraft Establishment Nubian Major KYK 945D. I have been seeking whatever manuals I can. I purchased a copy of "Workshop Manual: Nubian TFA/B81" which I think might at least have useful parts for your truck. It covers chassis but not fire equipment. If you haven't got this but think it might be useful, I will scan it and email you a copy. Dan W

I have just cleaned the block off, greased it and am going to paint it. (It had a lot of light surface rust). It says "Ansell Jones". I noticed a bit of damage (see 2nd photo, LHS). I suppose I ought to get it tested somewhere. But I am not going to be pulling massive loads with it. More a case of making the ces as complete as possible within reason. I am looking forward to when I can next get down to the truck and check out the diff locks. Rgds, Dan

The snatch block is worth its wieght in gold if you ever had to use it in anger. Is it a Fellows or Ansell if so you would be suprised what dealers/ operators will pay for them. Wether you use it or not keep it well greased and spinning it wont lose money

That is really helpful, thanks. Does engaging the diff lock pressurize the airpot or release pressure from it?? Are the airpots prone to seize up inside or is it the external linkages that seized? A suppose a good spray of wd40 will help? Rgds, Dan

PS I went to Llandudno at w/e where I got a big snatch block which I believe is for this truck. It looks sound.

Start with the front axle looking at the airpot that engages it. Make sure the arm it presses is as far to the left as it will go and has slack on the clevis eg got movement on it. My one had not the clevis was siezed and took a heft smack with hammer to retract the air pot fully . after you have done this on the front axle you will sus what i mean and then check the other three each rear axle and inter axle lock. Will put some pics on if it helps. once this is sorted the warning lights on the dash should tell if they are engaged or not (tongue in cheek cos the wiring to all mine was shot)

Is there a some way to tell, visually, if diff locks are locked (stuck) in the engaged position? Rgds, Dan

Absolutely, Richard - will do. I have just returned with my son and daughter from stal54. We have started her on the starting handle. What another relief! I sat in the cab, ignition on, and engaged starter switch in the belief that that by-passes the ballast resistors and gives the full ~24v to the ignition coil. James (16 but big and strong) on starting handle. Karina (14) in load bay with a syringe (minus hypodermic needle of course) with 1ml neat di-ethyl ether. I give the signal, she injects ether in a blast, engine fires immediately! Within 180 rotation James said.

Am going to get her under cover later this week. That will mean driving ~40miles with exhaust manifold held on with only 15 of the 16 studs. Planning to improvise a heat shield (any suggestion?), having bagged nasty corroded and by the look of it asbestos filled one.

Best wishes, Dan

Hi Dan,

You will have to drain it to below the manifold level, but no need to drain all of it out.

Richard - you have made me a happy man. I am so endebted to you for this info, and so quickly provided too. I have perhaps not read the unit repairs properly but so far I found now mention of expecting that. Perhaps the coolant loss is small. Would you advise that I drain the entire system (12-14 gallons I seem to recal)? Sincerely, Dan W

The exhaust stud holes do run through to the water jacket.

 

regards, Richard

Today I started to remove the exhaust manifold from the B81 engine of my stalwart. The first stud to come out was followed by a flow of engine coolant. The manifold was still very firmly held against the engine, with 14 or 15 more studs still in place, so I think the coolant was flowing from out through the hole in the engine from which the stud was removed rather than out of the manifold itself and down the crack between the engine and into the hole. But I might be wrong....Anyone know enough about this engine to know if the studs hold coolant back?

In short I am asking does anyone know if some/all of the exhaust manifold studs on this engine protrude into the water jacket?

Can someone identify and explain this insignia found in a couple of places on the truck please? It is just a tatty sticker and about to get removed, I'm not sure if it merits reinstating after vehicle is painted.

You have absolutely got it in one, Steve. To tell the truth I was pretty dejected driving home: 55 miles thinking, are some cogs missing or broken somewhere, do I look for a donor truck, who's to say it would be any better; mind running ahead 'til 2+2=10! I have just watched your film, that was the best film I could have watched before turning in tonight; I assume those bangs were from the wrecker as it turned in the gates? Sounded very similar to what I heard today. I think it was when I put it into reverse, fighting with the steering wheel that those nasty clonks were heard. I think they were from the back end. So thanks for putting my mind somewhat to rest! Good on you.

At some point I am going to want to get this truck on the road, hence through an MOT, so any advice from anyone on how to get the speedometer back working much appreciated. Rgds, all. Dan

Welcome to the world of Foden. Right now i feel you must be really worried about the state of the transmission on your new truck and see ££££ disappearing from your bank account. Sounds like a pile driver when you wind the axles up on a tight corner worse if you have any diff locks in.

Relax as far as i am aware they all do it. If you look at ends of rear springs they are located on top of axles in castings with a fair amount of sideways play the clunks bangs are simply when the tyres wind up lets go and the springs bang in to the side of the casting. Put a vidieo on of one of our old foden civillian wrecker doing same thing had quite a few different make trucks do it.

Note to moderators i have desparatly tried to find link to insert this but is not available on my menu so accept my apologies for forth coming bollocking

 

 

Daughter and I spent a few hours with the truck today. Day didn't go quite according to plan. Went prepared with 25L of "hydraulic oil 32" but couldn't find extension lever to raise cab, and no convenient bits of pipe to hand, so checking power steering reservoir, bleeding system, etc, couldn't happen. Steering wheel virtually impossible to turn at times. Other times nice and free.

Re gear shift - turns out dolt had been driving it with transfer box in low range. So today it went along a lot better through all 9 forward gears.

Bogie blocks had been extended, so retracted them. (That system seems to work anyway.)

Some very nasty clunks once or twice while reversing. I wonder what the state of diffs and diff-locks is.

Found out why speedometer not working. From attached photo, looks like entire tacho-generator on transfer-box output is absent! Harness and other wires dangling, including two with 12v battery connector terminals that look they might be something to do with radio batteries.

Found in one of the lockers missing channel section that clamps battery box lids down, so batteries (which had been bouncing around) are now both clamped down and the battery box lids both clamped too. Rgds, all. Dan

UP-DATE - I have been offered the units in the attached photo. None of these look quite like the picture in the AESP. Could anyone tell me what the hardware on the actual truck should look like? I have a feeling a modification might have taken place to wire in an electronic speed limiter, piggy-backing off the transfer-box output, not shown in AESP diagram.

Is it possible to start and run the engine with the cab raised in order to bleed the power steering system? Rgds, Dan W