FoolsHumor

Could someone forgive my ignorance and please offer a brief description on the diffeence between a B60 and B80 carb?

Thank You

Bob

Jon,

I appreciate you posting the photos. I generally find myself as interested in the shop area as I do the vehicles themselves. Nice overhead view of your obviously productive space.

Regards,

Bob

Wives tend to be narrow minded that way. Several years ago mine was upset about freshly painted Ferret parts drying on her laundry table. The Ferret is still with me but she is not. I am NOT suggesting anyone push there own fate that far.

You are a brave man Jim. It does not look like a project for the Faint of Heart. Please take photos along the way for those of us who may never have the nerve.

So help me understand please. In the photo of the engine it appears to show the outlet for the compressor side of the turbo terminating near the front right corner of the radiator. Is that somehow hard plumbed into the intake side of the motor?

I will also assume it is no longer reverse flow cooling so the hot radiator air will be exiting the beehives just in front of the driver's hatch. I suppose in Alaska weather that will likely be a good thing.

Your video does look like it drives easily and it will certainly be one of a kind. Congratulation on a large project completed very quickly.

Regards,

Bob

Hi Monty,

Thanks for the photo.

While I am here.....I assume that is a pair of Facet fuel pumps, but it looks as though they are plumbed in series. Is this just for redundancy in case one fails? Or is one actually a pressure regulator? It looked as though they are both wired.

Thanks,

Regards,

Bob

a good time to put a filler plug and dip stick into it.

I've done this on both the saladin front bevel boxes.

 

Andy

Andy,

Is that a mod done on later vehicles or your own work? Fabricating dipsticks by adding rods to plugs or ?

Thanks,

Bob

I believe the larger opening is intended to be a driver's escape hatch. Then closed down when you are in an area looking for, or having found trouble. The smaller opening is so you can drive by direct vision or quickly close down for scope driving without leaning out of the large hatch to gain leverage to unfasten and close it. The hydraulic version was on later Mks that were uparmoured.

If this information is misleading or incomplete, someone please correct me.

Regards,

Bob

Looks great. I think you can now stop claiming "I have no fabrications skills".

Bob

After my initial post I did buy seals from Banisters and yes , as always, he was quite helpful and good to deal with. I have not yet installed the new seals, mostly due to time constraints, but I also wanted to see if it would leak as bad this winter after some regular use last summer. My vehicle had sat for some time and some seals will improve with use. Unfortunately I now have a small but fresh puddle after some recent cold weather.

After receiving my new seals and seeing how they are made, I have less hope for resealing. The brake "cups" that are common here are made so the fluid pressure forces the thin lip out against the bore and helps maintain a tight fit. The Saladin seals are not cups, but are made similar to a quad ring (square o-ring) and have a tapered O.D. I assume the sealing takes place from a compression fit in the bore. My theory on why they leak after cold weather, when warm weather returns, is the bore contracts, the seal is stiff and does not expand when the bore warms and is again a bit larger. I am happy to have some holes shot in all this as I have very little real experience and I am here for the knowledge of those who do.

I have attached a photo of the seals and you can note the taper on the O.D. if you compare the end widths on both sides.

Andy, did your new material seals work? Polypropylene I believe you said.

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,

Bob

There is what appears to be an insignia on the muzzle cap to match the one on the Commander's cap. Nice touch.

Bob

 

from a private engineer's workshop who purchased approxmately 500 Saracens,

 

Regards,

 

Brandone

Maybe there is a sticky "0" key to blame here. I might have thought 500 Saracens was one digit long as well?

Bob

I can only offer opinions, no real factual knowledge.

If you can sacrifice some charging gas, I would try alternately charging and then running the engine to build some hydraulic pressure. The idea being to move the piston back and forth in the bore to see if it will reseal with some pressure on both sides.

I would have thought the seals would be cup type, but the parts manual list them as "washer, nonmetallic, syn rubber" with two different diameters listed 2.528" and 2.585" I have no idea what type of seals that describes.

I believe these accumulators are common to several vehicles, so I would guess Banister's and other vendors would have the rebuild parts.

Good Luck,

Bob

Brandone,

Thank you for taking the time to list all the plates in detail. If I could ask please, which of the plates did you think appropriate for Saladins?

Regards,

Bob

You might consider posting the vehicle type and number here to see if any member owns that particular vehicle and give them first option on that plate.

If not I would be interested in a Saracen plate.

Thank you for the possibility of making them available to someone.

Regards,

Bob

then finally took the fuel tap apart and a dead beetle fell out!

Yes, beetles are a problem. Two friends at the local airport had engine problems in two different airplanes that hurried their landings. Both were found to be the same type of beetles wedged in the fuel outlet pipes severely restricting the flow of fuel. There had been a recent hatch and they were every where, especially around the hangar lights the planes were fueled under with the use of a funnel.

Bob

Hi Rick,

When you ask about fluid type you are reopening a much debated subject. Sorry, but I do not know what LHM is?

Some say if you use anything except the original military designated fluid all will be lost. Others claim any good mineral based hydraulic fluid of the correct weight is OK, around ISO 13 with ISO 15 typically being available and used.

If you do a search here or on the Ferret Forums there will be no shortage of information.

As to filling, there are 2 plugs 180 degrees apart on the coupling. The hex is 1 inch if memory serves me. Using the special tool that attaches to the plug and prevents dropping it into the housing is recommended. They are commonly available. It fills to the bottom of the threaded plug hole.

My knowledge is well short on most others on this list. If someone tells you I am incorrect, I probably am.

Good Luck,

Regards,

Bob

In 1996 when I was roaming around Jackson's and Witham's, with very little knowledge of military vehicles, I did not fully appreciate what was available and more importantly that the variety and prices may never be seen again. Certainly wish I was at a more prosperous point in my life.

Regards,

Bob

Oily, Here is another picture from Jackson's circa February 1996. Maybe you can spot yours in the sea of Saracens they had at the time.

Regards,

Bob

Hello, I would appreciate some help with a Saladin question. Mine has no data plate and the only 2 other owners I have talked to also have their vehicles missing a plate. Is there a reason? Is the military required to remove them prior to disposal? Or the work of souvineer collectors? That having been said, could someone who has one intact, supply me with a photo of the plate and how it is stamped. I plan to license mine for some very occasional street use and I need a number plate of some sort. I thought I would make it as original as possible. Thank You very much for any and all help.

Regards,

Bob

And apparently I am not capable of doing a simple reply correctly??????????

Clive,<br><br>As always, the information is appreciated.  I have spent a good portion of my days trying to keep old tired equipment running by adapting, modifying, rebuilding as needed.  When I read on the forum where someone has swapped out an entire unit I never really know if it the only option due to an absence of individual parts or because whole assemblies are so plentiful and reasonably priced.  Any large heavy item is never low cost once it is shipped here.  It fretts me a bit to think of a vehicle sitting idle for lack of a brush or carbon disc, or just my own lack of understanding about how to make it well again.<br><br>Thanks Again for the shared knowledge.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Bob

I dont know what it is with this charging set up, but I'm on my 4th or maybe 5th pannel and 2nd or 3rd generator in my Saracen. The carbon pile regulators have gone in all the panels that have gone wrong. Any idea as to why?

On the two Pigs I 've had I think I have got through 4 generators. Seemed to be brush problems mainly.

Gentlemen,

With the history of problems you have had I am not getting a warm fuzzy feeling about my very thin supply of spare on hand here. Are the carbon pile regulators available separately or only from buying a complete panel?

Thanks for the help,

Bob

Well Andy, I was hoping you would receive some answers here. Have you had any luck yet in sorting it out?

Good Luck

Bob

I'm wondering if there is a more modern, grippier, but slower wearing, friction material that can be used to re-face these brake bands, as that would improve longevity!

Hi Oily,

I would doubt longevity of a new set of band material will be an issue. I would be surprised if many of us will put enough hard miles on our antiques to wear them out. Just guessing.

I appreciate all the photos you have posted. A previous owner of my Saracen had removed floor pans, steering brackets, linkage etc. and your pics have given me more information to go on. Thank You