Grego

Hey Ron, I'm just wondering if you figured out what was going on with your Tilly.

The gap is intentional so it compresses the rubber against the printed parts to seal. I would put some RTV in the gap between the two where you add the small length of wire before putting the shells on. If you don't use the M2 screw, then I would clamp them together until the RTV dries. I don't think I have the CAD anymore, but I can probably easily recreate it when I have a free moment tomorrow. I have access to a HP jet fusion printer that prints Nylon18, so I haven't tried to print these with a FDM printer. 

I'm sure we all know how lovely corrosion on any electrical connections are.

It could also be a weak connection or intermediate grounding issue from the high voltage line from the coil to the distributor. If the wire is old and the insolation cracked, it could be grounding out.

You could supply the 12V coil from a separate battery or any other 12V supply to isolate it from the starter to see if the starter is indeed drawing too much current. Does the starter sound very labored when spinning?

I know I'm late in replaying but I would drill each stud and add split pins instead of any thread locker. I say this only because these studs and nuts are submerged in the flywheel fluid. I use ISO15, and some people have used 30 weight ATF. ATF is a detergent and would defiantly degrade the tread locker in my opinion. Keeping with a mechanical lock (split pins) would not degrade in any oil. I believe you're talking about these bolts: 

FV169424.STL

Both sides are in the file. Thread one side for a M2, or I guess you can just clamp them when you glue them together. Good luck.

I've used the correct size gauge pins cut down to the proper length to replace 3 of the 880 loose needle bearings in my Ferret. So far no issues.

It's from 1959. It was a Mk1, then converted to a Mk2, then Mk2/3. According to it's service records from Bovington it served various regiments in the BAOR until it was sold off on the 1990's.

Ahh ok. Kind of an odd symbol for that, but I'll make sure to repaint it.

It's on the left side engine cover when opened. Found it while cleaning of some old paint. It looks like a white rectangle with a red circle? Looks like the flag of Japan turned 90 degrees. I plan on painting it back. 

Thanks for the links, but I'm looking for the No.80 grenades in particular since those are the ones used in the ferret.

Interesting read! Thanks for posting it.

I hear you. I'll be making some models one I get my hands on one. My smoke launcher tubes are dummies, but I don't know if they are the correct ID or not. 

I can't seem to find a source for them. Everywhere I look on-line they are sold out or discontinued.

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=7611

So I decided to make my own from 2 Lucas Quick Disconnect for CWB351 (https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=1282&t=Terminal_Female_Pack_of_10_CWB350_), some wire, RTV and two 3D printed shells I quickly designed to mimic the outside geometry as best I could. I'll let you know how they work out.

If anyone is interested in the .STL files I'll share them. They are glued together and the small M2 screw is removed once it's dry. I did beep it out and the screw was touching the wire. This was the first try, so next time I'll make sure it clears the wire and won't conduct. I'll test fit it in a holder tonight.

Just to add them in the 2 bins in my Ferret. 

I think you may be right! The 1/2" BSPT has a nominal OD of 0.825" with a 14 pitch. That tap I used is 0.83" with a 14 pitch. Maybe the BSTP is technically a whitworth, but I'd have to look into the specifications more. 

Does anyone know of a place to buy some replicas? I found one place that has them, but the shipping to the US at least is more than the item. Not to mention they only have 4 in stock. If someone is willing to sell me a demilled one I can design one in CAD and then I'd be able to have them 3D printed. I would share the necessary files for the whole community. 

Ohh and another very odd thing I discovered is that the brass plugs that fit into the wheel hubs are a very odd size. I had to re-tap mine because a previous owner misaligned the cover and tried to hammer it on. Well one of the dowels lined up and pinched the threads on the brass plug and they stripped out when I removed them.  The tap you need is a Compressed Gas Thread Tap, 0.830"-14 Thread Size. This thread size seems to be a popular size for paintball gun air tanks. Anyway I had to spend $150 for the damn thing. Yeah I probably could have bought a wheel hub cap for cheaper, but then we would never know the thread size. 

Makes me wonder why it's that size in the first place. Did Daimler have a warehouse full of these gas plugs and figured why not just use them?

https://www.mcmaster.com/2477A23/

Here's when you know there has been some windup damage on those pins holding the planetary gears. Caught before a catastrophic  failure luckily. After removing all the parts, machining larger holes and installing larger pins it's now fixed. Pardon the bad music in the background. Another fun find was my new favorite bolt. I think they over torqued this one a bit too much. For a second I thought "wow ferrets use some sort of variable pitched bolts!".

Sure. I'm outside of Boston, so it's a bit of a drive.

Other than that the Deep bronze and Sky blue 101 for the engine I got from my perfect color. They are not cheap. I did get the Sky blue in matte, but I think it should have been a low semi gloss. Too late now. The deep bronze green I have in some cans and in a 1 gallon bucket. I'll freshen up the outside once it's running. 

https://www.myperfectcolor.com/paint/386391-british-standard-colours-bs101-sky-blue

I've been using cheap rustoleum paint from Home Depot or amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7715830-Automotive-Accessories-Aluminium/dp/B0009XB2XC

It does tend to come off on your hands if you rub it, so I go over it with some matt clear coat to lock it all in. It does make it less bright and a bit more gray looking, but I don't have all that silver coming off my hands. You don't want to put it on thick though, just a light quick coat. I know it's not authentic and flame proof, but I don't plan on catching on fire anytime soon.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Matte-Clear-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-334022/307244852

Nice on the clansman! I have a full C42 Larkspur radio and comms set to put in it. I will say the larkspur is quite antiquated with the mouth mic cup thing. The radio and coms do work, but I have a set of walker razor shooting ear muffs with the microphone attachment as a modern solution.

Thanks! ohh don't worry I have replaced all the brake components, hoses, rebuilt wheel cylinders, master brake cylinder, rear hardlines, etc. REME rebuilt my carburetor, and relined my brake shoes with non asbestos material. They are currently rebuilding my transmission. The engine died on me a few months back (you can read about it in another thread) and I'm slowly rebuilding basically everything.