Jonnyob

Have you seen this one Ron 

There has been a few types seen lex - you are not the first to say g3wo chainguard 

but when it was a bike for so long in continual development nothing surprises 

I think a matchless rear guard was used too - but that’s another story for another day 😃

jo’b 

Hi Ron 

you are fairly advanced in your project - when you get to the silencer stage please let us know 

1/ what style you are looking at having made 

2/ approx cost - can we get a better price if we request a batch 

br

job

H ron 

I am with Rik on this one Ref the kickstart 

photos of the contract you are building to show the wider tool box / using a slightly adapted kick start to clear the toolbox would allow its use 

agreed the earlier bikes with smaller brakes & those seen in tests / have  the narrower box 

the huge number of part numbers created by bsa especially pre war / wartime is something I now take with a pinch of salt - many replicated with tiny changes implemented- the tool box would be a big change 

jo’b

Good to hear you are recovering ron 

I meant to ask - what valve springs were you using after you removed the hairspring type - std b31 ? 

Hi Ron 

earlier this year we both 50m of silicon rubber wire / has it recently been stopped by the supplier 

job

Hi Ron 

I’m doing this with the m20 on the bench & intend to do with the WB30 when it gets it’s turn 

where have you hidden the resistor ? 
have you  soldered it in line to the rear light wire or gone another route ?

br

job

You are going great guns Ron 

good progress photos too 

Lex is correct - in the marine business where I used to be - we would use special filter equipped funnels when transferring fuel from Jerry cans to on board tanks 

you could clearly see the water being caught if present 

water side fuel bowsers were always the worst culprits 

job 

Interesting that your motor is still with hairspring’s - what material are your rocker covers by the way ?

Just saw your rear guard more clearly on your last post 

now I can compare it to the rear I have here  also ribbed but from a post war b31

i’ll have questions after I expect 

br

job

Hi ron 

good to know this - it might suit RM as he has an early model on the go - just as well I didn’t proceed with getting this one fabricated 

question - does the basic upper loop look ok to use or to follow - if so - the only factor then is  the location of the other mounts & where they attach to the rear guard 

Also  notice your chain guard - did you get that with the project or have you cut & shut an m20 or other bsa guards to arrive at that ? 
br

job 

How does your rear rack measure against the rack I have Ron - have you fitted this to your rear section yet ?

if it’s correct then those of us who need rear racks for our projects can be happy that the rack going to jan will be correct dimensionally for reproduction at his place 

jo’b

Hi Ron 

nice work on the rear stays / it’s not a common bsa style this - but seems to be more commonly found on matchless & Norton cycles of the time 

I will be asking jan to fabricate but after I fix what rear guard I will be using 

it seems m20 lower stays will fit 

He did a nice job on that Ron - I wonder if you could persuade him to make a few more of them ?

jo’b 

Nice work on the brake plate so far 👍

Great you have noted all this & put it on here 

it clarifies a lot about this model

thanks Jan 

Hi lex 

this is a pre war bsa plate identified by the speedo take off / stub 

it’s from pre 1939 too I believe due to the small hole for the brake anchor bolt - so possibly 37/38 or earlier 

the m20 as we know them has a hole & a slotted groove too 

there are some similarities between m20 & WB30 brake plates but the wb is quite different once you know where to look 

the plate shown here would have to have significant modification to fit a wb30 with a 7” brake 

1/ rotation of the brake pivot & operating arm - braking is in reverse to that of an m20 due to the cable at the rear of the fork 

2/the speedo mounting stub needs to be removed an hole filled - the brake arm could not move if left there 

ron 

I have an m20 front brake plate ideal for modification if you are stuck - if you are lucky to get a wb30 plate - I will drool over the pictures - they are so very rare 

On 2/17/2023 at 10:55 AM, Ron said:

Hi John. Just click the "reply to this topic"  box and type away... and add any pictures.

 

Cheers Ron

Hi Ron 

First  time posting on this site - I find it very cumbersome 

I will try to post photos but if I fail / I will send to you 

Hopefully you will see from this original rear stand only the spring side is double forked 

the near side is single sided - the stand has been hollowed out in areas in order to reduce weight making the stand in it original form flimsy & perhaps if the bike had seen mass production - an issue in service 

it could do with heavier tubing - this you have resolved by using an alternative & modified component 

On 2/15/2023 at 8:09 AM, Ron said:

Hello chaps. 

I've reconfigured an M20 rear stand to fit and hopefully work. I had to narrow it by cutting a piece out of the bottom rail and weld it back with a spigot inside it. I  tacked in the two diagonal struts and taken it to a professional welder for neat TIG welding.