Jan

DKW Ersatzteile - DKW RT 100 » bei MMM kaufen (motorradmeistermilz.de) 

12 minutes ago, juan carlos rodriguez said:

si, lo tengo, gracias.-

Try Triumph TRW 500cc Military Motorcycle Parts (burtonbikebits.net) They might have a solution.

Have you tried downloading a manual? Instruction Manual For TRIUMPH TRW Mark 2 | PDF (scribd.com) 

46 minutes ago, welbike said:

I'm using 00 grease, can be found everywhere, and is very good inside gearboxes, leaks less, and works well.

Hope this helps,

Lex

Thanks! Will get some Kroon EP 00/000 as it is suitable for non oil tight transmissions as they state.

I'm back again to continue with a puzzle. As I have done the previous job (with slight succes) to solve a leakage along the wormwheel through the casing with a rubber seal (the bike runs OK but is still leaking). But: I have found out that the oil inside the casing should NOT be oil, but grease instead. And a found manual says "Shell Gearol (Ambroleum) , Mobiloil Compound C 1 of Shell Retinax."  (from manual DKW RT 100 (oldtimercollection.nl) )

Nowadays Shell Retinax is called Gadus nl-lube-shuttle-sales-factsheet.pdf (shell.nl). Question: What type is the best to be used?

On 11/23/2009 at 11:50 PM, Charawacky said:

The sidelight brackets shown on Tims pics appear to have supports for both sides of the lamps, is this so either hand of lamp can be used or did military lamps have dual fixing?

 

Here is a lamp which is most certainly a headlamp as indicated on the label.

The manufacturer is H&B and was most probably supplied just pre-war.

Does anyone know the corresponding King of the Road Lucas tail lamp to the 724 side lamp? as I am looking for a replacement.

Some interesting lamps here: http://www.prestonservices.co.uk/lamps.htm

 

Tom

 

 

 

One of these I have herited and is for sale (The Netherlands) 

Can someone tell me are these jaws recognised as useable stuff, might there be someone interested in these items? 3x 20cm long inscription 4567-H and 4x smaller 15cm 4567-G. Both about 5cm wide and are parts of a Snap On Hub Drum Wheel puller set.

6 hours ago, Scammell4199 said:

Certainly Scammell Pioneer, but probably lots of others too.

Look what we found in my father in law's inheritance:

≥ Dinky Toys Scammel Truck, Recovery Tractor 661 — Militaria | Tweede Wereldoorlog — Marktplaats

4 hours ago, fv1609 said:

Also used in Thornycroft WF8/NR6

5482-199 is the part number just for the base

Complete switch is CAV Type 47A-43 RAF Ref. No.17677

AP No.2515E Section 16E indicates that the complete switch was only supplied to repair depots. Unit repair was by component replacement which explains the base markings.

This one looks like it.

Part Cav Switch A variety of cars for sale - PreWarCar

5 hours ago, Scammell4199 said:

The red light is probably a charging light and if the switch is just an on and off, that could be anything but possibly ignition.

T - Tail lights

S&T - Side and Tail lights

All - Head, Side and Tail lights

Richard

NOS CAV Board Switch 47a-29 Bedford MW WOA Humber Scout Military GEC for sale online | eBay

Geez.. 😯

NOS BUTLERS MILITARY REAR LIGHT SOCKETS TRAILER JEEP BEDFORD LANDROVER CHAMP | eBay

Yours?

21 minutes ago, Scammell4199 said:

Certainly Scammell Pioneer, but probably lots of others too.

OK, thanks. Have seen on 

that some have a red light and an on/off knob, I found this "clean" one in the garage of my (late) father in law. Where do the signs "S&T" and "T" stand for?

10 hours ago, Zuffen said:

Grease would be my way forward.

give it a try, nothing to lose.

Gave it a try, and it seems to be OK. Used 2 wooden satay sticks to push the wormwheel in front of the gate, and hoped for the best with a lot of grease holding the balls in place (as I would like them to!). So far no strange noises or rough running discovered. One thing bothered me though: I found only 7 balls where there was plenty room for 8.. Did my father in law go with only 7?? There is no chance that I missed one ball, for there was nothing in the casing, and all 7 balls where in the clutch housing and no room for them to go further down than in that space (the photo shows 6 balls, one was in the coverplate so not visible on the picture). So fingers crossed that it went OK, but so far so good.

A 24V switch, stating ALL, S&T, T and OFF. An almost 9cm round front plate, and on the back 7 electrical connection screw-ins. It says 5482-199 at the back. Anyone?

Introducing myself being a retired AirForce helicopter mechanic as a starting career, but later jobs involved teaching, selecting and training aircrew in mechanics, for a flying career and also aerospace-physiologics. Grew up in the centre of the theatre of Market Garden, near LZ's like Ginkel Heath, attending the annual Airborne Commemorations as a youngster on my pushbike, and later by driving my father in law's Jeep and Dingo (the latter sometimes, when he was in a very, very good mood). He was one of the initiators of Keep Them Rolling (KTR) the "Jeepclub" as he called it. He passed away almost 2 years ago, and we (his daughter (my wife), my brother in law and his first wife) were clearing out his house and garage. The stuff we encountered! A lot has found his way elsewhere and a lot we will cherish. So the contents of our attic has doubled, and priority now is selling the house (we have a buyer) and after a month or two doing what retired guys should do (namely nothing) reorganising the attic. Motorcycles are my thing.

Wil try a greasy job. Any suggestions are welcome!

47 minutes ago, Jan said:

Thanks Lex for the pages, this far I came though the clutch itselve is OK. My problem is to reinstall the cluch cover, with the wormwheel and the pin inside the wormwheel to connect the pin back to the cluch, so the clutch can be pulled by the pin. The pin is missing the connection to the cluch, and I cannot figure out what happened during removing the sidecover. I am afraid I somehow disengaged the connection from the flared pin to the clutch, but cannot discover how the flared pin is connected to the clutch. There should be a reinstalling procedure that ensures clutch working as it should.

Jan

Figured out: There are loose balls involved indeed. Now how to figure out how to install the lot with trying to keep the balls in place..

Thanks Lex for the pages, this far I came though the clutch itselve is OK. My problem is to reinstall the cluch cover, with the wormwheel and the pin inside the wormwheel to connect the pin back to the cluch, so the clutch can be pulled by the pin. The pin is missing the connection to the cluch, and I cannot figure out what happened during removing the sidecover. I am afraid I somehow disengaged the connection from the flared pin to the clutch, but cannot discover how the flared pin is connected to the clutch. There should be a reinstalling procedure that ensures clutch working as it should.

Jan

Hi, I hope anyone can tell me what I'm doing wrong on my 3PS RT100. I removed the right half with the kickstarter and the clutch wormwheel, but now I cannot figure out how to get the flared pin (in the wormwheel) back to the position that it can pull free the clutch. Are there any loose balls involves? Is there a ball cage? The worm wheel should retract the flared pin (pinned by itselve in the wormwheel), but I suppose the flare should be able in some way to retract the clutch housing outwards. I have a drawing but that doesn't help me out. What is the trick?