PaulJager

1 hour ago, Ron said:

When I change the oil, I remove both plugs underneath and the one in the center of the the timing case.

As for the carb. I would strip it by also removing the jet block. Poke the tiny drilling out with fuse wire and thoroughly clean everything and use a new gasket kit. 

The only setting worth thinking about at this stage, is to screw the pilot jet screw all the way in and then back it out one and  half turns. Final tuning when the engine is warm. Ron

I did already take it apart completely and cleaned everything. Replaced gaskets and made sure everything moved like it should. I indeed found the pilot jet screw settings too, so I will start from the one and a half turn out position. We will see. 

7 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

Have you got a copy of this booklet?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264392878563?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338343596&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A264392878563%3BCjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgighZP2AgDls66y9Geq23LcY-&gclid=CjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE

I will have to check. There are multiple booklets now in my archive thanks to Jan and the forum, but I don't know for sure if this one is among those. 

And again, another question: Are there any tips or hints available to get the Amal 274 carburator in some sort of starting settings state? I tried to find information with Google, but all I got was adjustment tips and how it works, but not what the starting positions of the different screws and cables should be to first get it in a more or less working order for a first startup. Does anyone know this?

It is because I replaced the 276 carb that came with the bike with the 274 type that should be on it. I overhauld it at basic level and would like to try to fire up the bike maybe this weekend, but the carb then needs to be in a sort of basic settings state I assume, or not?

29 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

They aren’t CO, the cases are larger at the rear. The Post War CO was assembled from left over WD/CO parts and the very last COs used C crank cases with CO cylinders. If yours were one of these, you’d have a Model CO serial number on the front of the case and if I remember correctly, new drain holes like the CO case. It could of course have been a non factory modification that someone has later ‘undone’ and not realised what the hole was originally for.

That is off course another explanation. And not too weird being it 80 years ago that it saw the light almost. I will just remove the bolt and use the hole again as it should.

2 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

Attached is a photo of a WD/C crank case with oil return hole and WD/CO crank case with hole used for 5th stud and 2 new holes for oil return. 

That is a clear difference. Beginning to think: could it be that I have a CO case half instead of a C case? Having threads in the hole would make sence in that case or not?

3 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

As I replied above, no bolt, it’s a drain hole, without it all the oil pumped in to the chest would fill it quicker than it can run down the lifters etc.

OK, just to be sure. Didn't read it as how you intended it. I will make sure I remove it. Thanx.

On 6/22/2023 at 9:06 AM, Ron said:

Paul the slit at the rear is the breather come overflow for the oil tank. If oil is spilling from that slit, it must be full. Also once you run the engine after a drain and refill, oil will be pumped up to the timing chest. 

 

If the bronze bush on the crankshaft is in good order, the oil will hold in the timining chest, if it's worn, the oil will leak back to the sump, but will soon pump back when you start up again.  Ron

Does this mean that there should be a bolt inserted into the hole in the bottom of the timing chest then? Or could I just remove it and let the oil flow back through that hole and don't worry about it? Because I cannot imagine the valve lifter sliding onto the spline and stil have enough room for a bolt to be there.

I'm glad the slit in the casing should be there any way. I was worrying that I again found some problem with a bike that should have been 100% complete and OK. But maybe the second oil drain plug, the one closest to the rear wheel, should have come out too. Which I neglected to do.

On 6/21/2023 at 8:39 PM, Chris Hall said:

That sounds a bit odd, you should be able to get 3 pints in. Spin the engine over to get some oil into the timing gear chest (but it doesn’t take that much).

I do have to say that I only removed the oil drain plug that is closest to the front wheel. I notices that there are 2 plugs, but figured that if the first one would not give me any oil, the 2nd would probably not have to be taken out. Maybe that one is holding the other 1-2 Liters of oil that I was thinking of being able to pour into the casing?

On 6/21/2023 at 8:35 PM, Chris Hall said:

If I remember correctly, there is a hole to allow oil to flow back into the timing gear chest, perhaps someone put a bolt in it.

Hi Chris, there was already a bolt in there and it does seem to have threads in the hole too. But I was trying to think logically and could not understand how the oil that will be feeded to the timing chest would be able to flow back to the casing of the motor if the hole was covered by this plug. Maybe best to remove it then.

Another extra question: should there be a bolt present within the cilinder head in the bottom of the valve and valve lifter "cabinet"? In my WD/C there was a bolt present, but I think that the valve lifter, when slided onto the spindle, will not fit anymore the way I have it now. I already reduced the head of the bolt, but when looking in the parts list I even couldn't find a bolt of which I would think that it is the one I have. Or does the hole in the bottom of the "cabinet" have to be left empty to let oil find it's way back into the motor housing below?

On 5/26/2023 at 1:55 PM, Chris Hall said:

Nothing should block it, it’s just a hole right through. Disassembling won’t take long, it’s such a simple design.

 

As for the valve lifter, Jan may have a repro one.

The clutch is working again by the way. For some reason there was a rod pushed into the shaft already, but not the right one. I replaced everything as it should and it works again fine now. Thank you all.

Could also replace the rubbers while I was at it. They seemed to have the original ones still there, completely mushy and spongy. So, another job done.

19 minutes ago, rewdco said:

The WD/C needs 3 pints of oil, the WD/CO needs 4 (due to the extended oil compartiment in the crankcases).

Hi Jan, thanx for the information. Then, still I couldn't get 1 Liter in or am I using the wrong conversion? 1 pint is about 568ml as far as I could find with Google. Even with 1 Liter there was already spillage over de rim of the filling opening and besides that also from the gap between the 2 halves of the housing.

53 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

That looks good, the halves are cast separately but are machined as a pair. When they were machined, a matching number will have been stamped on both halves at the top rear above the bolt lug. So if they match, you are good. If they don’t, the halves need the main bearing alignment checked and machined to match (a simple job for a machinist).

I will look at the numbers to make sure the halves belong to eachother. But besides that, should there be some kind of overflow gap between the halves to let excess oil out?

Can anybody tell me if the edge of the motor case should be straight and all the way round should exactly line up with the other half or not? I was filling up the engine with oil, but even 1 Litre wouldn't fit. I looked in the CO workshop manual and was thinking the C should also need about 4 pints, so just over 2200ml. But besides spilling the oil over the edge at the fill opening, the is oil dripping pretty much through a slit in the housing. Should the slit be there and should it be spilling oil there? 

Thank you Jan. I was not sharp enough to look into the parts catalogue, dumb me. I saw the number there too. I will order the proposed springs.

On 1/7/2023 at 4:43 PM, rewdco said:

Hitchcocks have these springs in stock...

Hi Jan, do you know the partnumbers of the springs? I can't seem to find them when I search their site.

12 minutes ago, Ron said:

I think Jan fabricated one or two. But they are too time consuming to make and much stronger in their original cast form. It's the old story as I've found to my cost by getting parts cast and then machined. The low demand and cost, often reults in being stuck with stuff.  

There was a cry out for center stands, so I got 5 made at a cost of over £1000 for the foundry/post/machining. I still have 3 left. There are several other parts that I've also had made, which I wont be repeating. 😒Ron

 

Even though Klaas and myself still have to arrange something with Lex to get them to us, but we are very happy with our stands. I can't believe there is nobody else who is looking or in need of one. Sorry to hear that you are now still stuck with three of them and having money in them. Hope you can find someone for them soon. 

If Jan hasn't got a repro lifter I will have to try and fabricate something myself. We will see if it works out.

Thank you Chris for your reply. I will have a look asap. The 1940 WD/C in our hangar does have th whole assembly there and of that one I could take out the clutch rod and place it back without any problem. I was just wondering if maybe some sort o ball/bearing of droppin of some sort of part within the clutch assembly might be the reason for blocking. But I will lokk first and post the outcome here. Thanx guys.

PS. I will ask Jan for a valve lifter, but I think I already askd him before and he didn't have one. They are also not available from Hitchkock or elsewhere as far as I could find. They are rare I'm beginning to believe. And model specific I think.

On 5/16/2023 at 6:54 AM, Ron said:

Something is obviously amiss. But it's quite simple to remove the outer chaincase, them take the three bolts out to remove the clutch cap and front plate #55 #52 to expose the mushroom end of the pushrod #57. 

Then you can put your pushrod through the mainshaft and push out whatever obstruction is in there. Ron

Thank you Ron for this clear explenation. Excuse me for not getting back to you sooner, but tis should help. Also the pictures make it easy to recognize the parts. Number 57 I ordered new from Hitchkock, but maybe I will find it burried somewhere behind the cap and plate, like you describe. I'm really curious about what the obstruction could be. Is there any experience within this group of what could be in the way of the rod being pushed in like it should?

Besides this problem to dive into, is there anyone who has a valve lifter available for sale? Or knows how to re-make one? (nmber 32 on page 7 partnumber 25567)

15 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

Have you had a look at the mushroom in the clutch end? It could be jammed or possibly the wrong item.

Hi Chris. Can you show me or tell me what I should look for or how it should be assembled? I have no idea with my limited knowledge. 

Is there anyone who can tel me how to fit the clutch rod into the gear housing? I ordered one from Hitchkock, but when I stick it into the hole behind the arm to which the clutch cable is hooked it won't go in completely. I still have about 4cm left. The 1940 wd/c we have at the hangar has the same gearbox as far as I can see and also the same lenght rod. I can remove it and place it back with no problem, but mine looks like having a blockage of some sort. I need help.

I am looking for an exhaust for my WD/C, does someone maybe has something for sale? If not, maybe I can also add something to a Hitchcock order? I'm also looking for the valve lifter setup because it turns out that it is completely missing. (numbers 44, 45 and 46 and the corresponding cable)

5 minutes ago, Ron said:

I've had a small batch of center stands made if you need one Paul. I have two left.

Ron

Hi Ron. I already bought one from you 😉😉 Lex only has to pick it up at your place. Just like the one for Klaas. 

Cheers, Paul. 

So, after a long silence, finally again some progress to report.

The parts from Hitchcock are still underway unfortunately, but it is coming together slowly. The saddle frame, battery carrier and rear brake plates need some detailing, bit fit very nicely. Thanx to Jan.

The new bolts and nuts from Nookies I have glassbead blasted to get rid of the shiny surface. Started to add the nuts and bolts to fix parts now for real.

And the replaced Amal 274 carb is fitted now, yeahhh. 

So, still some miles to go, but I am glad to see some progress now.

Regards, Paul. 

2 hours ago, Ron said:

Paul the foot rests are Triumph and the fork side check springs are Ariel. Not sure about the saddle springs? They remind me of BSA Bantam?  Ron

Hi Ron, thank you for your expert eye. The footrests I already thought were from Triumph and are sold here in Holland through Marktplaats already. The saddle springs are maybe of interest for Lex as he told me. Awaiting his reply, but knowing what they are for is very helpfull. I think the saddle springs were bought by the guy who had the WD/C and wanted to make it into a custom kind of chopper like thing. He also had a chopper seat with it, which I already sold a few months ago. I have no idea where the came from or if they are model specific or more or less universal. Probably someone might want to use them I hope. Thanx again.

Paul.