Piston Broke
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Everything posted by Piston Broke
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I have a rusty old ex-RAF K6 that at some point has had a 1940 vintage searchlight lorry body (presumably K3?) stuck on the back and converted to a tipper. My retirement project is to restore it, probably removing the tipper gear but retaining the body, which I don't think is too far removed from the type that could have originally been fitted. It's going to be a long haul, but for starters can anyone suggest sources for parts and any other K6's within striking distance of Hereford that I can visit now and again to check what it should look like in those important little places?
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Much appreciated.
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Thanks for that. I have a new set on the way from Jeeparts. Whether they will have any identifying numbers etc. remains to be seen.
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Help! Got to the point of adding the pal nuts onto the con rods in my Jeep engine rebuild (actually a post-war French bitsa with Hotchkiss block, Ford con rods etc.). The manual says to get them until they "seal", then turn a further full turn. My pal nuts are thin pressed steel affairs and I took seal to mean making contact with the main nut. I assumed they went flat side onto the main nut, but when I attempted to then give them a further turn, the pal nut just bent out of shape. What am I doing wrong and how tight should they be?
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Thanks all. Off to Hereford Glass then!
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My 1940 MW is fitted with aero screens, currently made out of perspex. I assume the originals were toughened glass, but before I shell out on a couple of laminated replacements, I thought I'd better check with those in the know that the originals weren't in fact perspex. Any input appreciated!
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Thanks for that. I have some red rubber grease for the cylinders, but it seems Lockheed expander grease has gone the way of the dodo. Do you think TRW brake grease is the nearest thing?
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Sorry, wrong section...not about vehicle manuals at all! As I'm too much of a Luddite to know how to move it, I've re-posted in MV Chatter.
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According to the manual, the rear brake bisector on my Bedford MW should be packed with "Wakefield bisector grease". Any idea what the modern equivalent is?
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According to the manual, the rear brake bisector on my Bedford MW should be packed with "Wakefield bisector grease". Any idea what the modern equivalent is?
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Bedford MW radiator drain tap thread size
Piston Broke replied to Piston Broke's topic in British Vehicles
Question answered by my local metal work suppliers, it's 3/8" BSP (prabably the same for a lot of British vehicles of this period). Here's a tip for the unwary though; when fitting a replacement drain tap, clean out the thread in the radiator first. The corroded cast iron or steel is hard enough to damage the brass thread on the new drain tap. Mine lost about 0.5mm of diameter when i tried to wind it in, and I didn't think I was using much force. Still enough thread left to screw home when the female thread was cleaned up however. Phew! -
Pedantic is good! Thanks for that everyone. I'll compromise by accepting UNF in that case. I did have to fill the cooling system with holy water and call the local priest for an exorcism however when I found a metric bolt in the engine compartment.
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Nearly all the nuts and bolts on my 1940 Bedford MW are UNF. Whilst it has been extensively rebuilt in the past, I would have expected it to be held together with BSF. Have they all been replaced over the years, or was UNF the original predominant thread type?
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I am fitting a replacement radiator drain tap to my 1940 MW, but the new one has a longer thread than the original. Due to corrosion in the radiator's female thread, I can't screw it in far enough to seat properly. Anyone know what the thread size is so I can try and get hold of a tap to clean it out?
