Glennaagesen

Hi there im about to change the gearbox to primary pack, from spare pack. Anyone having the manual for changing? if not, anyone having some good advices to dismounting and mounting? its not the easiest access to bolts etc. So any good advises are more than welcome. Thanks

I was planning to clean it. I do not have a new one on hand. Any tips for cleaning it?

Hi Andy Many thanks for the inputs. I have ordered XL30 from Castrol, which is a SAE30 Mineral oil. Will get it during the week, so weekend gonna be exciting. Cross fingers that its the problem. Thanks again.

Great, thanks for info. Reason for my question, is that I do not get enough power from the gearbox. Engine runs perfect, and gearbox turns, until so much resistance. Up hill e.g. Im considering that the oil must be replaced. What the view on that theory?

Hi there When it comes to oil in the gearbox on a K60 pack, it says on the dipstick “OMD90”. Is that an equivalent oil as “EP90” ?

Hi I have the exact same thought. Though it is running really great. Better than before. But be sure I’m keeping focus on emergency stop, the first time of running 😊👍 Will notify the updates. Thanks. Regards.

Hi A quick update on this topic. I have concluded that the fuel flow to the injectors, is not running as should. Either due to not enough fuel, or due to not enough pressure. The final step I took, was to remove the cover into the pressure pistons for each output. Looking at them working as should, when cranking, concluded that the mechanism works as should. Though I got suspicious about the "twist" of the valve on the top. The valve which must open for the fuel flow to the out puts. I could see how it was opening when cranking, but notices the marks on the "ring" It did not open so far.... (see pictures) Now, looking into the housing behind the solenoid house, I noticed the push of the bar, opening the valves. It seems not to be bussing it all the way. Why? because of the adjustable screw, marked with "green". I now unscrewed the adjustable screw, to the maximum level, checking the the bar now can push all the way in. Yes it can. So now I see that the "rings" opening for the output valves, are twisting to the very open position. I crank the engine, and it jumps to running immediately.... Conclusion so far: There was not enough fuel flow, simply because of not full open valves, caused by mis aligned adjustments. I have now adjusted the screw to the very correct position, and the engine jumps into running straight away. Great. Will keep you posted. So far, thanks a lot for the very useful feedback from all of you. great stuff. Regards.

Hi terry I have new fuel filter and lots of fuel flow. I even have fuel out of the 6 outputs on the FIP. But pressure is low. It cannot pressure the fuel out of the injectors.

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Hi I have tried to work on it few times now. Trying to “push” the rod to the very end where it stucks. Same result. Even if the solinoid is not pulling fast enough, the engine should still start, once I support by pushing the rod. Right? nothing has been adjusted or touched, since the machine was running perfect, till now where it’s not working. Still a mistery and no pressure on the FIP. Got today a second pack, which has low hours and renovated. So now I will make a swoop to get the “old” pack out which makes it easier to work on. Regards.

Hi Richard I cleaned the fuel filter from all the “nasty” stuff. And you are right, it is kind of slime. But im not aware of any filters, in the FIP or between the fuel filter and FIP. Did I miss anything? Glenn

Hi I now ran a few tests. First of all I adjusted the injectors. Second, secured that I have fuel flow in the pump. Now the problem starts, once the injectors are connected to the FIP. The pump is simply not able to produce enough pressure for the injectors. It’s also logic, with the low rpm and problems to start up. Once I blow the diesel start, the engine runs much higher rpm than on the starter, and the FIP can create just enough pressure, despite the leak. My conclusion so far: the FIP has a leak in the pump. So it’s now a matter of getting hands in a renovated one, or renovate my own. Does anyone have experience in changing FIP? The “new” one must be timed correctly to the engine. Any support on this task? Regards.

I remember that the problem started after approximate 2 hours of “fun” in the field. It started completely normal, and ran completely normal. After 2 hours of running, without problems, I stopped it normally for a break. When I wanted to start again, I realized the problem. It would only start with power spray.

Hi Yes I checked the connection and checked that it’s releasing completely on the FIP. Glenn

Hi David I tend to agree on that theory. I have checked 3 injectors now, and they where to low on the pressure. Different was up to 40 bars. I will reinstall now, and see how goes.