Wendelspanswick

Try the Ex MOD:

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=10656&t=Plate_Clutch_HB3536AF

£75 for the clutch plate.

You don't need a certificate of conformity so long as you have the blue Cast certificate. 

Just fill in the bare minimum on the V5/55 and DVLA will fill in the rest, that's how I did mine in November.

I keep seeing a pair of Jackals around Taunton and it strikes me as to how exposed the crew are, whats the design logic in having the crew 'out in the open' where they are vulnerable to small arms fire and IED's?

10 hours ago, TooTallMike said:

Yes, it's now part of DVLA's procedure.

He just needs to call HMRC, explain the back story and they will issue a zero-rate NOVA number which will reference the vehicle's chassis number. DVLA will then cross-reference this to allow the new registration application to proceed.

Personally I would not tell them it was a previously registered vehicle as it will just confuse matters. Just proceed as though it is a newly-found vehicle with no known history.

Mike - do not try to rush the process. It will take time and it will be frustrating. One application we did last year took 6 months and 4 rejections. Another took 3 weeks and 1 rejection.  The previous year one took 1 week total!

You need to get all the paperwork in order before you start including NOVA, V55/5 (only fill in the relevant bits), IMPS/MVT verification letter and supporting documentation.

If DVLA are unhappy with any element of your application they may decide to have the vehicle inspected. This is done at their expense by a third party company called SGS. We had one of these inspections on a stale-mated application last year after which the registration was completed within 2 weeks. The important thing is they cannot inspect a pile of parts. It has to be a recognisable and more or less complete vehicle. The missing engine/gearbox shouldn't be an issue although if you can have your replacements sitting on the floor alongside it would probably help!

Feel free to PM me if you want any assistance with the application.

Regards - Mike

Just to add that I sent the Cast certificate and partially filled in V55/5 for my newly acquired Leyland Daf to the DVLA and received my authority to obtain number plates 7 days later and the V5c 2 days after that, sterling service!

9 hours ago, sharkpooh said:

iv got a few leads to follow up 

So depending on cost and condition im looking to spend around £3000 at the moment 

also now looking at a Zil 

Id like something 7.5 ton that i can put my scent on 

 

£3000 would buy you a Leyland Daf 4 tonner from Withams auctions.

https://whitelabel-2.globalauctionplatform.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/timed/wca/catalogue-id-witham1-10000?clienturl=wca

My guess is you've snapped a front half shaft or the front transmission shaft, the test is to stick it on axle stands and see what turns in 4wd.

Same here on an Android phone using Samsung browser.

Thanks for that, I did Google it first but had a large choice of definitions to pick from.

Not an ideal method but you can use the swing of the compound slide as a spherical turning attachment so long as the correct radius is within the limits of the slide travel.

Could someone tell me what CES stands for please?

I looks like the piece of angle that your using as your bottom tool has a quite pronounced radius in the internal corner, cleaning that out with a grinder or using an alternative piece of angle with a sharper radius should give you crisper bends.

11 hours ago, Davey089 said:

Secret ?................... thats a good one ! like I said open to offers .Its very hard putting a price on something that's taken 4 years to do and had a substantial amount of money put into it .

Those in the know appreciate what goes into this type of renovation , the costs of the initial vehicle  the research and parts costs  , so by leaving it open to offers it attracts those serious in purchasing these types of vehicles and weeds out the timewasters . 

I'm not desperate to sell ,I don't need the money, if it doesn't go no problem, .I'll probably buy a wagon container and store it in there till when ever .

On the other hand I bought 16 acres of land by sealed tender, when people ask how much I paid for it they always comment that if they had known it was going to sell for that price they would have made an offer themselves.  

Sometimes a guide price or 'offers over' can give buyers some indication as to whether they are interested.

I'm pretty sure it's just a combination of a compass and an inclinometer, a device for measuring the angle of a slope.

Did you wait for it to warm up!

Hi, the air tank drain valves are common parts and can be picked up at any truck spares place, similar with the alternator, it might be cheaper to get it repaired or an exchange.

Do you have the original jack on your vehicle?

Thank you for that, good to know.

I'm after a new top sheet for my Leyland DAF 4 tonner, there are plenty of side sheets on eBay but no top ones. 

Couple of questions:

Are the Bedford ones the same?

Has anyone bought new canvas from Comptons 2000 and if so was it mega expensive?

Thanks.

43 minutes ago, john1950 said:

Easy test. jack one front wheel of the ground then try to rotate. If it is in 4wd it will only turn part way and will try to turn rear propshaft, If it is in 2wd it should rotate.

Will that work as it's permanent 4wd? The button locks the centre diff.

There are 4 square plastic blanking plugs on the dash, if you prize those out there are 4 1/4 turn screws underneath that release to allow you to lift the dash.  I'd get the buzzer working as it should be an easy fix and that should enable you to work out whether the diff is locked or not.

I can get under my DAF and measure the actuator rod length in both positions if that helps?

Have you read the operators manual?

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/573991/FOI2016_09103.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjgxujJxfvXAhUBZ1AKHU4OCyoQFghGMAo&usg=AOvVaw2cDuqjEKv0EzfnjZrvLBbG

It doesn't sound like it applies to you but if you drive with a locked diff on hard surfaces the discrepancies between the front and rear axle wheel circumferences induce a torsion effect in the running gear so everything gets wound tight. Sometimes you need to drive on a loose surface to release some of the torsion so the diff lock can release.

I have a muddy track that I regularly drive along and a slightly drier but fairly steep stoney track I drive up and I'd struggle without diff lock.

It's the same buzzer for the diff lock that sounds until the air pressure is up to working pressure.

Just reread your post properly, have you tried driving it on loose ground to see if that unlocks the diff, it might be wound tight so it's not releasing.

So I have the same truck, are you sure the diff lock is engaged and its not a faulty dash light, the buzzer sounds every 30 seconds with the diff lock engaged.

Not sacrilege, I'm a firm believer in modifying tools to get a job done!

It looks like the chuck will come out off the quill on your mill/drill and you can use morse taper bits.