steph1960

I was given this sow on patch a couple of weeks ago but the 83 year old person who gave it to me didn't know its use or origin. Is it military and if so where would it have been used and what era?

Any info would be grateful.

Steve

Yes indeed Rik. Not a great deal or much of interest to sell this time, but I'll be in my usual spot (B8) top of field facing the trees.Ron

Can't make Netley this year but should be at Beaulieu on the Sunday, will you be there Ron?

All done and came first in class at last weekend's International West Kent Run. Thanks for all your help with this project with a special thanks to Ron Pier.

Steve

There is also the issue of government revenue, over 50% of the fuel cost is tax and this will have to be sourced from elsewhere.

And for when all you tin box wallahs get stuck or lost, motorcycles to the rescue (or not!)

I am with you on a 3HW, booked through the IMPS though.

Steve it's best to attach the kick start and wind the spring up and hold it in place with the kick start whilst you offer up the cover.

 

Ron

Thanks Ron

All fixed last night, easy when you know how.

It is available on Amazon, due out at £19.99, a saving of £5.01 on the list price. A search for Chris Orchard on Amazon will find it.

Got it, thanks John.

Thanks for all your replies.

 

Out of interest if the Frosts POR15 is poured in to a fuel tank by what method do you block up the holes ASAP while you are turning the tank over and over again to ensure that every surface gets a good coating before it cures. I have been told you can't hang around once the sealant goes in to the tank!

From experiences I have had with the product it stays fluid for ages, I have poured the excess into a can and it has still been fluid weeks later, the can was sealed though. Threaded holes can be blocked off with bolts but the best hole plug for the larger holes is a potato.

This evening at the West Wilts MVT meeting Chris Orchard brought in the latest edition of his book, British Forces Motor Cycles that he had just received today from his publisher.

 

This third edition has a lot more information in the frame and engine number tables, and a very interesting chapter 'Motorcycles with provenance' which includes a list dated 2nd June 1944 of motorcycles for embarkation for Provost duties, this list contains census numbers, names of riders and the unit that they were attached to! if you are lucky enough to own one of the bikes listed then you can't get better proof than this. The list was provided by the RMP museum, who have since not been able to find it.

Chris Orchard has been invited to give a presentation in the authors tent at the War and Peace Revival, he will be there on the Thursday and Friday to answer questions and sign copies of his new book.

Do you know where we can buy this book please, a quick internet search didn't bring anything up?

Can someone offer advise on the fitting of the 3HW kick start spring please? I pre tensioned mine prior to reassembly but the lever is not returning without assistance, I also recall having trouble getting it all back in place with the little tension that I had so can only imagine that this will be harder with even more tension applied.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

I have an Auto Union Munga which was first registered here in 1979. The V5C confirms this and also states " declared manufactured in 1965 " The plate on the bulkhead is also stamped 1965 and also gives the engine number.

At sometime the engine has been replaced and I have the number of the engine now in the vehicle.The number shown on the V5C bears no resemblance to this or any number in the manufacturers sequence for this type of vehicle.

The vehicle colour is shown as brown but should be green.

I also have a letter from the then MVT examiner confirming the above and stating it should be in the Historic Vehicle Tax class.

Does anyone see a problem with me sending the V5C to the DVLA asking them to amend their details and issuing me with a new V5C with an age related number ?

If it is the Historic vehicle class will it qualify for zero road tax ?

I tried to change a Ferguson tractor from petrol to TVO recently due to an error on the V5c and they wanted an invoice for the engine change!

I am rebuilding a triumph 3hw and have a few riddles to solve with this old bike. Any advice is welcome. I am scratching my head over the crankshaft breather at the moment.

Hi Tim and welcome

I too have a 3HW that I am restoring and I also had a recent encounter with the engine breather, see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?55813-Triumph-3HW

What is it that's causing the itch to your head?

Steve

Indeed Steve! Flat nuts are no good. There must be a rebate to centralise the spindle in the forks. Part No W175. Brian Tillin made all mine in Stainless. Ron

Thanks Ron

Excellent reference pictures, I will measure the clearance between the spindle and the fork ends and spend an hour on the lathe.

When you think about, it's amazing that the four little tangs on the disc last as long as they do. When you consider the thousands of times that the discs is going back and forth!! Ron

I have made a new disc and put it all back together and given it a suck and blow test and all is well, hopefully that will last a while.

A slight deviation to the front wheel now, I need a good photo of a front wheel nut if you have one please, mine are just flat nuts and I would have expected there to be some kind of flange on them for fitting to the girder forks, can you help Ron?

Steve

Thanks Steve. I will list it on the Scott Owners Forum and see what information they have. I have found an engine number Scott PA 5609 so hopefully something may be known from that.

 

Stuart

Stuart

If you don't want to go through the rigmarole of joining the Scott forum just PM me your posting and I will post it on your behalf.

Steve

If the disc is so deformed that it can fall over, then I'm sure it will soon be out of function on the bike and as you have to remove the whole primary side to get to it......I'd sort it out now!

 

Ron

I managed to get the plug out last night, the end of the bolt was turned over holding it in. The attached picture tells the story. The diaphragm is somewhat reduced from the shape shown in the parts manual, you can see why they disappear, it was small enough to get lodged in the reduced hole beyond the plug!

Steve

Yes the disc will just suck against the hole on the upstroke. You might have to drill the plug out and make a new one. Or try running a tap into it as a means of purchase. A fairly loose push fit will do with some bearing fit Loctite. I've seen several of these with the disc missing.......Where do they go?? Ron

Thanks Ron

I have had this breather unit in the warm for a few days and I picked it up this morning to have another look and it rattled, on closer inspection the diaphragm is in there, however sometimes when I shake it the diaphragm disappears so this may be why it seems like the disc is missing, I thought it was. I will try and get it in the right place on assembly and just hope that the engine does the rest to hold it there, its probably very worn.

Steve

Scott Generating Set 2.75KVA (Scott PA engine) for the Kerrison Predictor Unit on the Bofors Anti Aircraft Gun.

 

Hello I have joined the forum and wondered if one of my engines/generator may be of interest and I would also welcome any advice or help with its maintenance/operation/history. I would also welcome your thoughts on keeping the original paint/patina with a thorough clean up or whether I should go for a full repaint restoration. I have started to give it a good clean/degrease and it is coming up well (I will post more photos once complete if these are of interest).

 

I would appreciate if you have any information on the above engine/generator or indeed if there is any history from it's War Department number and information.

 

I am looking for maintenance or workshop manual information. What type of oil and grade to fill the engine with (it runs on 2 stroke but there is also a filler for the engine).

 

From what I have found I understand that this engine and generator were used to power the Kerrison Predictor Unit and the Bofors Anti Aircraft Gun in WW2.

 

The details of the engine/generator and its WD plates are:

 

- WD Number: B 5755

 

- Scott-Generating Set 2.75KVA, Spec RE/P/3702, (electrical) drawing number 40241, the year is 1941

 

- Generating set 2.75KVA, 130v 3PH, 50~, 12.2A, 0.65PF, rating 1/2 hour Scott Saltaire

 

- Under the WD number there is an inscription which appears to be: An image of the Crown with a line underneath it and with the number 521 underneath that. I think this was for the 521 Coast Regiment Royal Artillery which was based in Newhaven, East Sussex.

 

Any information/history you could provide of this individual item would be greatly received or indeed if you could advise who/which organisation may have some specialist knowledge that I could contact.

 

The good news is that the engine and generator worked however it now needs some fettling to have it running again. There is a good spark and compression it just needs some time spent fettling. Unfortunately, as usual other commitments can take precedence although I should have time over this summer.

 

Thanks

Welcome Stuart

This is interesting in as much as I have a Scott motorcycle with a two stroke engine and they also used a version of this engine in the Flying Flea but that is as far as my knowledge goes with regards to the engine use. You may however find some information if you post this on the Scott Owners Club forum at http://scottownersclub.org/phpbb_3/index.php if you post in the general Scott topics of the open area I am sure someone will have some knowledge of this generator or at least the engine.

Regards

Steve

There's a little metal diaphragm which is trapped behind a plug with a hole in it which is tapped into the body. #126-127 here, which to my mind is shown the wrong way round? Ron

Yes I too thought that was the wrong way round. I cant seem to get the plug out of the body, so will try some heat. Is the diaphragm just a loose fitting disc?

Steve

I think you'll find that distance tube F2327 goes between the engine plates. You might have to slacken some engine plate nuts and slide it in from underneath. Ron

Searching through boxes of parts at Stafford at the weekend turned one of these up and when I asked the price the guy just gave it to me, there are some nice people at these shows.

The next problem is the crankcase breather valve, I have the body and drain tube but I don't seem to have the diaphragm or plug although there is something in the end of the body that maybe the plug (see picture), its difficult to see this in the parts manual.

Anyway if this is the plug then I am missing the diaphragm, does anyone know where I can get one or what it looks like to copy please?

Any help would be gratefully received as I am unable to assemble the primary side until I install this breather.

Thanks

Steve

I think you'll find that distance tube F2327 goes between the engine plates. You might have to slacken some engine plate nuts and slide it in from underneath. Ron

Thanks Ron, I seem to be missing that part but it looks like 3/4 tube so I will make one.

Steve

Did you put the bottom rear engine plate stud in place before you plopped the engine into the frame? Or like lots of others, try to fit it later!!! Ron

Yes I did Ron, as you know this and one bolt on the primary side is all that can be fitted prior to attaching the engine plates. After I hade achieved this there was one thing that caused concern that I have yet to check out, is there a spacer tube in between the rear engine plates where the foot pegs go, if so, can I get it in at this point of assembly?

Steve

I don't have any pictures to show yet but the project is progressing well. Most of the parts are now painted and I will start the reassembly this week, I have already noticed something missing and that is the fork to mudguard fixings at the top, is there a bracket that wraps around the fork or should there be a bracket welded to the forks to take the bolt fixing? Any help or pictures would be appreciated.

 

I will post some pictures as things progress but in the meantime here is a picture of it before I started the strip down.

 

At long last assembly has started. Onwards and upwards.

Hello

From pics I've seen, KD (karki drill) shorts, shirt ammo boots, web anklets and hose tops (sock with no feet) but you could also get away with anything for in the desert from battle dress, long KD trousers, KD shirt, sweaters, leather jerkins, greatcoats, Tommy helmets, goggles, gauntlets, anti gas goggles (Rommel wore British tinted ones) side cap, mixture of BD & KD!

Best bet is to look at some period photos and go for the look you like the best!

Hope this helps?

Colin

Thanks Colin

I had seen some photos on the internet but was unsure of the colour, pictures are few and far between and in black and white. I think the shorts might be a bit underdressed for motorcycling but in camp on a hot summers day would be a relief.

I will compile something from your list, thanks.

Steve

Tim did you buy one of Brian Tillin's 3HW front brake rods? Can't remember if it was you. If not, I'll email you his phone number. He's a Triumph singles guy, and might be able to help you with the info you need. Ron

Ron

It was me who purchased the brake rod and very good it is too, I can recommend Brian if anyone else needs one but I do have a standard piston if you still require any info Tim, please let me know.

Steve