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Johnny

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Posts posted by Johnny

  1. 19 hours ago, alsfarms said:

    On another note.  I have been past the "Heartland Military Museum" located in Lexington Nebraska.  Each time I have been in that area the Museum has been closed.  Has anyone here been to that Museum?  I think most of the display is WW2 or newer but I don't know for sure what they may have that is not currently on display.

    Al

    Their Facebook page says "Due to COVID the Heartland Museum will be closed until 11/12/2020. Sadly, the Veterans' Day Parade will be canceled this year. Stay safe!"
    https://www.facebook.com/heartlandmuseum/

    • Like 1
  2. 19 hours ago, alsfarms said:

    I have been digging around for information relating to the current disposition of the Hays Truck museum inventory since the museum was closed in 2013.  The museum was to be relocated to Reno.  I also guess that a portion of the museum inventory could have been sold off.  Does anyone here have any update information to share?  If the Hays Museum is now set up under another name or business front in the greater Reno area, that is just across the state of Nevada from me and I would like to make a trip.  Help out if you can with any information.

    Al

    Looks like it might be the The National Automobile Museum in Reno.
    This link says "After the HATM closed, a portion of the collection was donated to our Museum and is currently stored in a local warehouse."

    https://automuseum.org/?event=a-video-tour-of-the-hays-antique-truck-collection-august-second-thursday-talk

    Even if they didn't get the Riker, they might know where it went.

    • Like 1
  3. I'm really puzzled by the internal thread in the gudgeon pins. Don't recall seeing anything like that before, and can't see any purpose to having it there, especially if they are pressed in.
    The brass ends of the pins look to be very big in relation to the pistons and con rods, so I'm wondering if they are just end caps or bushes? Something like this: https://blog.wiseco.com/what-are-wrist-pin-buttons

    Could the brass ends be externally threaded too, and held in place with the split pins?

    The internal thread could be there to facilitate installing them. Not sure how they could be got out if they are threaded though?!?

    Worth investigating before you try pressing them out.

     

  4. 7 hours ago, BosunAl said:

    The only real problem I have is that whenever I open a new post, the site goes to the first post of a thread.  This requires me to go to the last post of a thread and scan down to the final post . . .

    If you click on the posted time part from the New Posts page (i.e. 6 Hours ago) it takes you to that particular post rather than the beginning of the thread.

  5. The trade name seems to be Metalphoto.

    Lots of Google matches in America, but not much over here.

    Possibly becoming an obsolete material nowadays. Advances in printing technology have made it very easy and cheap to print onto virtually any surface.

    Might be worth contacting a local printer or copy shop to see if they could oblige.

  6. Possibly the PBY Catalina (G-PBYA)?

    Quite a distinctive sound and shape, and very slow, which could fit your description.

    It's based at Duxford but is a regular on the show circuit and will often fly if the weather is too bad for most others!

     

    Consolidated_PBY_Catalina_4_(7509920632).jpg

    maxresdefault.jpg

  7. Is the petrol fresh?

    I've heard of (and experienced) lots of odd running issues recently due to stale fuel.

    Modern fuel only seems to have a life of a couple of months before it goes off.

    The bike might still start but won't run properly - often with issues like the one you've described - and it's easy to get drawn into thinking there is another issue!

    If it was running properly before, and especially if it hasn't been used for a while, try putting some fresh juice in before getting your hands too dirty!

  8. Depends on the type of paint and how well it's been applied.

    If it's just been slapped on then a pressure washer might well do it.

    It that doesn't work, you'll need to resort to chemicals!

    For older organic based paints a caustic soda solution bath would work and not damage the plastic.

    For 2K or acrylic based paints a decent paint stripper (Synstrip or similar) would be best. Again, that shouldn't touch the plastic, but best to try it on an inconspicuous area first!

  9. I would use nitromors to shift the ir paint as it doesn't tend to touch the original deep bronze green.

     

    Modern Nitromors is rubbish though.

    The aggressive chemicals have been taken out to make it more environmentally friendly, but it doesn't work on most paints anymore!

     

    Go to a trade car paint supplier and get hold of some Synstryp or similar - it actually works like Nitromors used to!

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