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Hi Paul, Just for your information this is a chassis plate belonging to a W.J.Reynolds trailer, my Reynolds also has it cast into the wheel hubs. So different to yours, but you are probably already aware of that. Cheers, Sean

Very interesting article, am now going to use Ash !!! Thanks very much for the info.

Just measuring up for the timber and noticed the 1" thick floor planking was not tight between the 7/8 "side planking, but is an inch narrower overall. Is this normal to allow for swelling or just shrinkage from age? I am planning to use oak. Any advice appreciated. Sean.

Hi Mike and everyone, Having just looked at your trailer pics ,it looks identical to mine, including the welded on wheel arch supports. Let me know if it has 'Reynolds' cast into the the Hubs. The Timken bearings on mine are the smaller outer bearing 09074 and larger inner 14125.The last number of the larger number is a bit indistinct but I'm pretty certain it is a 5. I am just having my springs re-furbished at Brost Forge in London, they are also going to try to straighten the small cast brake ratchet lever, but with no guarantees it will make it!! I am also still trying to source a replacement for the hub grease seals, new wheel nuts and a single wheel stud so if anyone can help please let me know!!!! Re the discussion about trailer legs, Mike yours also appears to have the chain arrangement with split pin like mine, the holes in my one original leg are only just big enough for the large split pin. Maybe that was all there was as a safety device. The hole in the foot though is puzzling,any pics of it being used would be great. Looking forward to the new cleats! Cheers, Sean

Simon, I have one original leg which measures overall 31" including the foot disc. The lower hole is at centre 6 1/8" from the top surface of the foot disc. There is an upper hole centre at 12 3/4" from the top surface of the the foot disc. As you can see there is a 1/2" hole in the foot disc. The locking chain consists of a 2 3/4" split pin, 9" chain, 1 1/4" split ring and a 1 3/8" long metal tab with a hole for the split pin at one end and a 3/8 " hole for attachment to one of the bolts holding the leg casting onto the trailer body. The foot disc is number stamped too, not sure of the significance.. hope that helps.

Hi Tony, Yes my trailer has hinge holes front and rear. Does the rear centre channel on yours have the spacer plate welded in between it and the trailer frame same as the side ones? I couldn't find any other info about the tarps hole spacing so have just let John (Worthings) get on with it. I would like to work out that strange lashing set up shown on the side of the trailer in your illustration though.

Hi Folks, Anybody got the rear view for this GS no2 trailer diagram? or a photo of one? Mine is identical (including the hitch) except that it has a rear tailgate opening instead of front. I am trying to see if this was original or done when it was overhauled in 52. There is no evidence of a rear central stave being removed at the back of the trailer, so am trying to see if this design had one. My front staves have the 2 holes for the locking posts on the gate to go through, so all very confusing, and I am about to make a final decision on placement of the gate. Also anyone know how the lashing of the canvas top is done, it appears to use the corner hoops on the bottom of the frame in Tony's diagram, but it is obscured in the picture. Finally, does anyone know what the correct abbreviated data plate lettering would be for a 'Reynolds' built trailer? ie OE for Orme Evans. Cheers, Sean

Having got part way through the dismantling of the hubs on the mortar trailer, I have found this on the back of it. Is this common to your trailers or is it proof of the maker of my trailer?

Very interesting photos Tony. Was the woodwork tongue and grooved on the sides and floor,and how was the flooring fixed to the chassis? Mine has half round steel rods running along the joints that then are bolted through onto the chassis. My floor boards seem a lot wider too, but still odd widths. Sean. PS I have also just discovered my wheels are mis-matched, so I need a 600-16 wheel if anyone has one they don't need! Also could anyone tell me if the Avon Traction tyres as seen on series Landrovers were around during the war?

Thanks for the contact Artifficer, will look them up!!!

Yes, I think I probably will find somewhere , but probably not too local. South London doesn't have much left in small engineering shops in comparison to the Midlands, which is still renowned for its engineering industry. We here in Lewisham on the other hand, are now recognised as an international centre for crippled chicken fast food stores and drive by shootings. If you were to ask a local about getting your nuts threaded round here, you may well end up in casualty! It may take a little longer to search out, but will carry on, as you say its all part of the fun! Cheers, Sean

Ok see that now, still haven't got the hubs apart, so assumed the landy studs would be ok, doh!!!. Looks like I will need the stud and nut making up as you suggested, if you have a contact number for the place that did yours I would appreciate it if you pass it on. Cheers, Sean

Thats great info Tony thankyou, just looked at the website, looks like it will do the job. I wonder if someone has already done this on the hubs and thats resulted in the different nut sizes on mine? Cheers Sean

Not so sunny Brockley...

Thanks Simon, that gives me hope! I have now managed to loosen the rest of the wheel nuts except for one that is still resiting all efforts. Strangely some of the nuts are smaller than the rest?? Was this the same on yours? Do you have a contact number for the machine shop you used? Unfortunately South London isn't awash with them! I could always post stuff to them etc. One other question, the long brake linkage rods on your trailer, are they round section steel? Mine are so rusted I can't tell! Thanks again for the help! Sean.