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ch5993

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About ch5993

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  • Birthday 11/07/1986

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  • Location
    Surrey
  1. I know that Ferret Centre bins are impossible to source these days. I actually have a good bin but the lid has rotted away. Does anyone have a lid that they might be willing to part with? Or know of a good reproduction? Regards, Chris
  2. Bazz, in service pics would be great if you have any. Thanks to all. I've just been told by Bovy that the records system only started in 1968 and prior to that there was no system to record vehicle history or transfers. Toolman, i'll e-mail some photos for the register. Chris
  3. Hello all. Can anyone assist with deciphering the history cards for my Ferret Mk1 33 BA 71? I get the general gist of where it was assigned but i'm curious about the code change and conversion. Does anyone know why the cards don't go all the way back to its in service date of 1954? Also, does the Mk1 (VHF) designator have any significance over just Mk1? Many thanks, Chris
  4. Has anyone got any tips for undoing the crankshaft damper nut on a B60 without the correct rolls tool? It should be a castellated socket type tool. regards, chris
  5. I'm most of the way through re furbishing my ferret gearbox. Starting to re assemble but I have an issue with the 1st/2nd gear brake drums. It looks like at some stage they have overheated and the 1st gear drum has warped slightly so that it is now slightly oval. This means the second gear drum can no longer rotate in it and was jammed in when I took it apart. Has anyone had any experience of this? Is skimming the second gear drum to make it fit an acceptable solution, leaving first gear slightly warped? any ideas appreciated.
  6. Thanks robin. I'm just following the base overhaul manual.
  7. Hi all, I'm part way through stripping the gearbox in order to sort some oil leaks and a suspicious second gear. I've got to the stage of lifting the casing off the front cover and running gear. The 1st and 2nd brake drum hasn't come away and remains within the brake bands. The manual talks of some special tools to remove these, which just look like hooks. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to remove the last brake drums? Chris
  8. Thanks Steve that seems logical, although it doesn't quite match with what I think is the manufacture date. i don't think Ferret Heaven exists anymore, although there is a site called FV701 which has a list, but it's by VRN not hull number, so I can't use that as a start point. suspect the next step is Bovy.
  9. Yes square hatches so an early one I guess.
  10. I'm wanting to try and find the registration of my Ferret Mk1. The hull plate says "97. B. 5. 3." Which I translate at hull number 97, manufactured May 53. Can anyone add anymore information or history? Chris
  11. Hi all, I've been monitoring this forum for a while but thought I'd introduce myself. I have been looking after a Mk1 Ferret for a number of years based in the south of England and found some very helpful info on this forum. Some friends and I have run the ferret locally to a few shows. The group that I'm involved in have also owned a Mk 2/3 ferret and a Saracen as well as a couple of WW2 era Bedfords. Chris
  12. How do you go about making the top and lid? Chris
  13. Having recently had a run in with a Saracen, the centre bin of my ferret mk1 needs some TLC. Having heard that its impossible to get hold of a new bin I'm considering making a new one by salvaging what i can and making new bits as required. I was wondering if anyone has any experience of this or any drawings that i could use? Also, out of curiosity, is it still possible to get hold of any of the other bins? Chris
  14. I've had exactly that failure. However to fix it you don't need to strip the suspension apart. When i did it i got a new wheel station and fitted the new wheel hub to the old suspension. I doubt you'll be able to find a replacement part for sensible money. To remove the wheel hub follow these steps and refer to the picture. You don't need to strip the hub down as i've done. That was a different problem. 1. remove brake cylinder from the back plate of the hub. There's just two bolts. 2. Undo the 6/8 (i can't remember how many) bolts around the flange that is between the two gaiters on the shaft. It's just out of the pictures, to the left. 3. Undo the castellated nut holding the steering arm to the hub and break the joint so that the arm is free from the hub. Obviously this only applies to a front wheel station. 4. Undo the bolt on the bottom of the bottom steering swivel. This bolt holds the pin that passes through the bottom suspension link and the steering swivel in place. It's tapered and once this is removed you can knock out the pin and the bottom suspension link will drop down from the hub. There should be a couple of o-rings and some spacer plates that drop out aswell. 5. The hub should just be hanging off the top suspension link now. There are eight socket head bolts holding the hub to the link. Make sure you support the hub from the bottom so it doesn't drop and undo these bolts. The caps come off and now the hub should be free. To remove the damaged part, undo the bolts around the back of the hub that holds the gaiter on. It should then come free. The gaiter pulls off over the flange end if the large spherical bit is still attached. Alternatively replace with a new wheel hub. To refit just reverse the steps above. The second picture shows you whats inside. Top right of the picture shows what the part should look like. Hope this helps, if it turns out you do need help on how to strip the suspension then let me know. Chris
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